travs

Win some lose some. Googling the L part number only comes up with the Superb and Arteon; must be the only other model with those engines. I’ll mull over some of the options for replacements but I’ll not be in any rush. The guy from AwesomeGTI is still looking at options so will be interesting if he comes up with anything I’ve not thought of. On the basis of some facelifts being ok, must be some of the older engines (i.e. engine codes starting with C) still using the A-F part numbers.

Not sure what the metal is, aluminium maybe? I guess the rubber is what absorbs the load in the main but I’m no engineer. There is a little tab at the bottom of the triangle, but the bolt head is also recessed because they’ve put more material inside the triangle. Spoke to the mechanic about getting a new mount so that the insert can fit and he said it’s a lot of time as they’re pressed straight into the subframe. So they drop the subframe down so they can get it in the press. All of a sudden, 3 hours labour becomes an expensive job for the gain. Its not even worth removing material from the insert because of the build up around the bolt head; you need to end up with a much shallower insert, but then it wouldn’t be flush so the bolt head is not pulling against the mount. Basically, I see my options as: 1. New mount insert with A or F code 2. New version made by Racingline (or APR/034) by moulding the L part. 3. Accept I’ll only have the upper insert (albeit not happy that RL think that it transfers more and damages the mount) and sell in the lower part.

Part numbers and version fitment. Is purely down to engine code.

Best thing to do is get under and take a picture of the engine mount. You can see it easily without removing anything - the point being you want to look very carefully inside the recess if its not smooth and empty inside, like the first diagram, neither will fit. Compare my pic to @JR RS's above. 5Q0 198 037 A for the round one (V1) 5Q0 198 037 F for thee triangular one (v2) 5q0 198 037 L - the one that no-one has accounted for...

This topic is not quite over yet. Got the replacement part, took it to the mech and…doesn’t fit. I clearly needed the V1 which I originally ordered as you’ll see from the photos but you should also see why V1 doesn’t fit. There are some slight mouldings within the recess which stop the right version from fitting. So…I need to see if the guy at Awesome will swap the bit back as that was what I’ve bought and I’ve got the upper mount in already. then I need to consider options. Most likely seeing if I can get a pattern part that doesn’t have these new revisions and see if that fits and so the v1 lower mount can fit. Annoying but it’s just a case of aftermarket guys not knowing about slight revisions.

Have you guys got up to date Software? For MIB3 that's now 332. Although tbh I've had version 276 (utter garbage), 306, 330 and now 332 and they've all been ok except 276 which made (It now connects to Carplay immediately, then drops it, then reconnects and is fine from then on. Not sure what the latest is for MIB2.5 though - has a different version numbering system. Possibly using the Cyrillic alphabet

Racechip for me. Thought I'd be conservative with mine and have it on Sport+ (there is Eco, Sport and Race with + versions of each for more options than you need really). Ended up putting it on Race+ and prefer the hairline trigger of it. That's a petrol so will have different response but it'll help yours significantly too.

Ha. Glad it was sorted. You could change them all to Blue with VCDS, VCP or ODIS so I did wonder if some settings had been changed which would have been naughty so glad just a simple thing.

All Superbs have: FWD (yours) 312mm Front and 300mm rear AWD 340mm Front and 310mm rear Ignore anything that seems to be contradict that as usually motorfactors aren't specific between nuances of models.

Well did my own plugs today and, having read up and learned since Rob's, the pull-and-thumb-push seems to work perfectly. Fingers behind the connector to pull on it gently, both thumbs on the clip to push up and you hear the little click; do all 4 and then the whole rail slides up. Wish I'd found those sorts of videos last week 🫣 Divine penance did rain on me, when I'd not spotted Cyl2 hadn't clicked in place so it was running on 3. Laptop out for VCDS, engine cover off to check and thankfully found the problem quickly. Cleared DTCs and was running smoothly again in the end. So much swearing though.

Agree with this - makes a world of difference to the throttle feel.

Not sure this is in the right place. Its sparkplugs but not necessarily about them, about an email exchange I've had with someone there called Peter. I was looking for new plugs for mine, perhaps something with a slightly cooler rating than standard given an amount of light tuning. Saw NGK and Bosch versions but was struggling to find stock, and found a VW forum mentioning Brisk versions which might be applicable (same engine, similar state of tune etc) so thought I'd go to the website and see what they had. Nothing was listed specifically by brand for Skoda or VW (ironically given my source) but inviting queries if that was the case. I sent an email giving a brief outline of the car, engine, context (i.e. similarity with out VAG group engines), stat of tune and asking for confirmation of the models I'd read about being applicable. First reply: "The oracle says that solution is a trial and error. Too many mods that affect too many variables. IF other owners have experienced the two plugs, then that is a good starting point, action any problems from there on." I replied trying to confirm that his response was basically to trial and error plugs and that there were too many variables to give any actual information. I found myself trying to understand that that was what he thought. The only other suggestion was to go back and talk to the tuners. Even getting him to confirm that they physically were correct for the car was a blood-from-stone process. I'm happy to alter bits on the car, but I couldn't quite fathom the risk of trialling parts on my engine; I just thought they'd have bits that would be suitable for various states of tune or not. Anyway, bullet dodged - I keep reading that they need changing a little sooner than others, so the box of Bosch sitting in the porch having been delivered while I type this will do nicely instead.

Handling. Have fitted a Whiteline arb and it is really subtle but noticeable. Really feels like the car rotates much flatter when on decent a or b road bends, or roundabouts too. 25mm, put it on its stiffest setting and enjoy!

Whiteline ARB fitted. 25mm set to stiffest setting. Feels really good. Have done some fast flowing A roads punctuated by some roundabouts and feels much less dramatic if that makes sense. Dogbone upper has gone in but the lower was the wrong part. AwesomeGTI are swapping the version over thankfully so will hopefully get that sorted this week with any luck.

We didn’t find pulling the coils themselves bad at all; but unplugging the connectors is about as frustrating as it gets and sorry to say I broke one of Rob’s. It still clipped into place but several bruised thumbs, swearing and YouTube videos for technique meant the job feels like a pig just getting to the plugs.

+10 for the UK offering. Its actually starting to look like Eibach Pro-Kit (to resolve the crimes against wheelarch-gaps) and OE Monroe with DCC Slider Mod would be the optimum setup...I've already tagged Aperture in one thread; he'll get annoyed if I do it again...

Same. Clean car, Friday. Done. Slightly more miles between but meh, I can't take it with me when I 'go'

So...after fitting the upper part, it turns out I didn't need Version 2 ffs🤯 Double-checked original part numbers with Autodoc - 5Q0 198 037 F seems to be only for Kodiaq 2, 5Q0 198 037 A is for basically the rest of the Skoda range as well as Golf Mk8 and Audi A3 8Y (another relatively positive indicator). No way was that fitting. Thankfully, Lewis @ AwesomeGTI has been an utter star in arranging to send out a V1 lower part only and then I can return the V2 when just outside the returns window so thankfully, not much and it'll be sorted!

+1 - although looking at options to get one or other (he says naively)

MOT this morning with ‘full’ dogbone and white line 25mm ARB fitting too. As long as the former isn’t so obviius the mrs thinks there’s something wrong with the car, fingers crossed it’ll feel a bit better and tighter

@ApertureS - appreciate you’ve got a lot on your plate at the mo but are you able to do the DCC slider mod?

That’s the stuff. And that’s B16s which are meant to be higher spec than B6? Better than B14 I think. So basically the adjustable features of the B16 are the only improvement over standard… Guessing no-one’s looked into whether it can be swapped for DCC Gen2 - or if it can it’ll be a monster job to reprogram everything to account for it. May well be a case of Eibach to sit a little lower, then standard Monroe with DCC slider mod and recalibration

Can you do it with VCDS? I thought it was ODIS (or maybe also OBD11?); edit, wait, no, VCP?

Do you know if they use deionised water? That would be great to spray on a citrus prewash, leave for a few mins, jet wash off and then not need to touch the car to dry; just drive off. Easy clean in 10 minutes.

No parts for the time being. Need to get the DCC slider mod done first so I can use more than just Sport. The classic is Eibach Pro Springs and Bilstein B6s or B8s for a slightly lower shock. The arch gaps definitely need closing so a lower stance will definitely happen. Although the esteemed JRRS did say that the original shocks are designed to be better - something about number of valves. Either way, plenty of consensus about the B6s being decent. Sachs do a CDC shock which is their version of DCC/Damptronic also