travs

Sorry you’ve had that experience - my gut feel is the whole Hanlon’s Razor ‘don’t put down as malice that which can be explained as stupidity’. I don’t think it’s an attempt to con, it’s just bad organisation and if a customer accidentally pays for more then we can’t stop that etc. Might be worth seeing if making an official complaint to get your money back. And if nothing, Office of Fair Trading?

“She’s a witch! Burn her!” Good enough for the shots you took.

No worries - seems from the coal face that the price differential doesn’t epitomise its reputation but a few mm difference in the side wall is the main thing.

Columbus is all touchscreen including the volume - unless this is some sort of very old one…?

245 tyres are also cheaper as the 235 is a less common, and therefore more expensive, size. I’m surprised that 17s have not resulted in a more compliant ride though; I would have thought 17s or 18s as JRRS suggests would definitely have a more positive effect.

Plenty of gloss there pal 🫡

Nope. Just kind of dialled it out of my mind. Nothing seems to be wrong with the brakes. Think the dealer meant to say ‘prevalent’ rather than ‘normal’…

Yeah that’s a shame they don’t sort that. My friend’s Mercedes app tells him that ‘it’s raining so it’s going to shut the sunroof for him’. It also tells him to go for a drive because the battery is getting low. While I’m on my soapbox, the keyless key becomes dormant after not moving for 2minutes which avoids any keyless theft. It’s the only brand that I’ve heard of that does that (I may be wrong on that) but that seems like the perfect solution.

Earlier in a process as opposed to earlier in actual time. Agree that I don’t think mine is a particularly drastic angle for my needs but it could be something that OP does regularly that could do with some light and doesn’t have it. Horses for courses and all that.

Broadly that looks like it confirms what you suspect :-) If the button on the tailgate itself works, sounds like there’s a component within the mechanism that responds to remote signals and does what the button does…but isn’t doing it fully maybe? Could be some sort of actuator can be repaired/replaced or swap out the whole thing (tends to be the dealer solution these days)

Ok - this should be v330 for RoW. Maybe download software again from here maybe and see if this fixes it (the zip with P33000P in the name) V330 RoW download (If a login popup appears, its “guest” for both username and password)

Sounds like he wants them to come on without having to turn the wheel so much.

It can’t be. You said you had v306 updated to v330 - the version you’ve quoted here is version 324 so while it is RoW it’s not what has been installed. You need to find the v330 that you’ve shown in your screenshots as installed in the car.

@YashD111 have a look at the firmware v330 file you downloaded - in part of the file name does it have EU? Or ROW?

Chaps you both have plenty to offer the forum - let's draw a line under this one; all is good and Happy Friday etc. etc. OP is getting someone to look at it so the topic is sorted for now I think, unless he wants to post back with a resolution and update @ffiscool do let us know what happened and how resolved.

You’re right the picture is needed to ascertain. Although my primer is white and my car is black. As for detailers - that’s why I only recommend to people to search for someone on IDA or PVD websites as they will be properly trained and certified. Not fussed about sides or who’s right. I think the problem is different situations are being used to justify a solution to this one. When clearcoat is rubbed down there is so much damage to it the diffusion is pervasive so it appears to be opaque. But that’s a different scenario to this scratch. Either way - I’m sure polishing will reduce the effect and whether clearcoat or colour is needed, it’ll get sorted. Best of luck OP

I can’t agree with that. Scratches in clear don’t show as a colour; they just diffuse the light more than marring but the underlying colour coat still shows through. It doesn’t diffuse the light to the point of creating another colour. If there’s a definite colour that’s a loss of base coat and it’s the primer (in this case, plastic primer on the mirror caps) showing. Never heard of not putting graphite grey on white plastic primer either.

My summary is this: You read it damaged cars. You read the lawsuit was dismissed. You’re still not sure. Tbh - this is a classic first-impression syndrome where it’s hard to get rid of that niggling “what-if”. Perfectly understandable but tbh there’s too many other products on the market to force your hand. If there’s enough of an effect risk to make you hesitate, then just buy normal screen wash and use the rain-x products you’re happy with. I had a look through the Safety Data Sheet and didn’t see anything contentious. Has an alcohol which will be the solvent to clear contaminants and an organic hydrocarbon which will either be the hydrophobic coating or the solvent-carrier for the hydrophobic coating.

If the scratch is white (and presuming it’s definitely a scratch and not transfer), then the colour has come off and the paint is down to the primer. On that basis, putting clearcoat on is not going to sort it, it’ll just be coating the scratch and locking in the appearance. You need colour paint back on to have any chance of reducing the look of the scratch. The toothpick is a classic tool for applying tiny dabs at a time as a touch-up stick. Clearcoat doesn’t have to be applied. It’s there for UV inhibition to stop damage on the colour but some paints will have UV inhibitors in so it won’t need it. But if you do, then you’re starting to go down spraying/sanding it on. Worst case, you’re not happy with it and get someone to do some scratch repair. If I was going to use anyone, I definitely wouldn’t use ChipsAway. Plenty of Detailers can do scratch repair.

It’s a little bit subjective as to what contributes a lot of noise - best way to have it definitively checked would be to have someone sit in and agree/disagree if you haven’t already. If you have - did you have the pads changed with the last set to this set of discs? Do you think it’s coming from the front or the back or both? Mine weren’t noticeable (2021 280 with different size discs) although I thought they were starting to be a bit noisy at the rear with 4mm on the pads.

These are the exact ATE Ceramics I bought from Autodoc. Front: Autodoc ATE Ceramic Front pads Rear: Autodoc ATE Ceramic Rear pads Thought that would help confirm the sizes as these items fit a 280 standard sized brake setup. The fronts came with a separate wear indicator cable.

I'd say so, as along as its specific to Golf R. (Eg if you look through ECP - you only get as close as VW, Golf, 2.0, petrol. And that covers the GTI which will have the wrong sizes included). The Superb is far too ambiguous seemingly and incorrect offering. I've checked ECP with your number plate and they pickup the make and model and nothing else. Select the specific engine and it makes no difference either. Discs are: Front: 340mm diameter x 30mm thick vented (pretty sure there isn't a solid offering anyway) Rear: 310mm diameter x 22mm thick vented (not sure if there is a 310mm solid but you want vented) Pads will be (and there is some artistic licence with some measurements): Front: 175mm length x 70mm height x 20mm thick (make sure there is a wear indicator either integrated or in the box) Rear: 123mm length x 60mm height x 15mm thick (no wear indicator) Pads you will often see the disc size they are mated up with and the disc size is definitive.

Chillout.

This is a massive amount of info. Glad it was a happy ending and you worked around it too. Will def help in future if someone does the same I’m sure.

Exactly that - it’s sharing within the Skoda services rather than a generic security notice. You can change it if you go into your profile in MIB and settings; maybe try and change it and change it back?