travs

Funnily enough I was on the motorway last night and was looking at this and realise I had steering wheel vibration on only 😆 Its actually pretty good now....

Otherwise research for a trusted VAG specialist that can access and update service history etc. Save on £per hour charge and you get a sensible approach if it goes above and beyond the workshop manual (I know of cleaning the Haldex gauze but admittedly that's probably not relevant to FWD and I don't know how many other things that fall into the same category).

I think the camera does sign reading and lane assist; for the latter, in which case, judging how mine sticks between the lines, the camera might as well not be there...

As BlackFriday was still going on and Paypal credit availability, I thought I'd pick up some uprated coil packs. Stuck with Racingline as I'm impressed with their stuff so far. Was looking to replace the spark plugs a little earlier than the 4year benchmark, but to be honest, the impossibility in trying to find a parts provider that can actually tell the difference between CXJA/DNUA/DNFE is mind-boggling. The only place that seemed to do the Bosch plugs for the DNFE engine was Autodoc and they did...then didn't...have them in stock. So I decided to leave them as they were and research uprated ones in the meantime. I don't think this is going to make more power necessarily, more about making sure there are fewest limitations from the remap. Whether they actually make a difference I'm sure will be 80% psychological but, well its done now. For now - it seems like the next items would be uprated intercooler and fast flow cat - both of which are starting to prove the law of diminishing returns by the looks of prices...

Looking at the way these plug in, they connect to the turbo boost pressure sensor and the fuel rail - so my guess is that they tell the brain to run more boost and to put more fuel in to match. Some engines have plenty of spare potential on the existing hardware so the available increase looks more drastic. As much as they're referred to by some as a box of resistors, I think this is probably a little disingenuous given the technology these days, but that is only my opinion. Going on reviews, they all seem to do well and there are some experienced people working for these companies. Worst case scenario is that a lot of these will do a money back guarantee so look at the ones that you can return it if not happy and try that out perhaps?

Another vote for battery here - not on experience, just on what's come up recently. Cold snap starting to kill off the weaker ones?

It was the one to have in the E36 world - I hasten to add this was in 2005 before Milltek came along and decided to add a nought onto every price...Scorpion if you wanted everyone in the postcode to know you'd just started the car, Supersprint if you wanted subtle. I had a Magnex backbox on my Saxo VTR (I know - all the stereotypes) and that was great; no sound difference when cold, sounded a little deeper when warmed through. Would happily have that on the Superb. Back on topic - ok good to know its consistent and normal then at least!

Just reading this back - this is interesting. My exhaust is...slightly boomier...for the first couple of minutes of driving. I actually really like it and wondered if that was a symptom of something to do with the flaps. Maybe not. On my old E36 328i it was done by a vacuum pipe running the length of the car - you took it off the inlet manifold and plugged it (I used a golf tee which was actually the perfect bodge!) and got a tiny bit more volume. Until the Supersprint went on anyway

I call it “how it should be”. Honestly, started on S+, moved up to R+ within about a week. Never taken it out since

Reply for closure - yep seems OTA update doesn’t do the firmware; downloaded using mibhelper.co.uk and vegarz on here through his ftp link. Updated from 306-308-330 all using the USB-A data port under the armrest.

29Gb zipped is a massive amount of data, it may depend on the read speed of the usb stick etc. Also you may find that smaller portions of files can updated successfully, but the roads is a much larger one and needs much more time to upload to the car?

I know what you mean - don't bother paying for any more updates except remote connect - then get everything like this. I like tinkering with the car (hence the love of, and support for, forums like this which are goldmines) so I quite like doing stuff like this

Amazing - sorry if I'd missed that! Will download 308 first then and do that but to those with a port under the armrest, it looks like it is a full data port at least!

Just tried it as I don't have a USBC stick to hand. Downloaded V330 from @vegarz mega.nz link - engineering mode could see the data there but a window popped up to say there was some sort of clash with my current v330. I was under the impression I could go straight from 306 to 330 but maybe I need to install v324 first?

Given that when I plug a USB stick int9 the slot under the armrest, can that be used as well to update?

Checked my software and I’m still on 306 which is about a year old. Am sure I’ve seen a few higher numbers rattling around. I thought 306 introduced OTA updates so I thought this would update but is that wrong? Should I be updating manually through the USBC?

Sounds good - anti drone is always a nice touch!

A random collection may be a bit more indicative of battery being on its way out unless yours is anything up to a couple of years old (doesn’t rule it out, just less chance)

Solved with a coupe of self-tappers into it; bit of a bodge but its holding fast against any boost pressure and still removable should it be needed. £165 savings...and also, looking at the other end of the pipe on the DV, it would be a pig to change!

https://store.ngpracing.com/products/genuine-vw-audi-diverter-valve-recirculation-hose-pipe-audi-8y-s3-vw-mk8-golf-r This is the only incident I can find of this pipe - pretty sure this is it going by the braiding and the clips on it. Is it going to be this sort of price through the dealer network?

Seem to have found its from the Diverter Valve - guess that's why I get the dump valve whoosh...

Engine: Racingline Stage 1 remap (self flashing tool) with TCU flash for the increased torque. Quoted as moving to 400bhp and 520NM (applicable to all engines with Continental turbo and end results irrespective of manufacturer's original state of tune). I haven't had it Dyno'd to prove, but I'm fine with those figures for now. What should help with the top end is the R600 induction kit and Forge turbo inlet pipe to speed up airflow - RL state that consistently gives 20bhp at the top-end so, I'm in the 400-420bhp ballpark. Brakes: Mtec drilled and grooved discs all round with ATE Ceramic pads. Standard sizes, just looks better and should stand up to any heavier braking should the need arise. Still bedding in and have noticed the DV-to-induction pipe has a broken clip so is being pushed off with high pressure/more open throttle. It makes the car sound like it has a dump valve at the mo (technically it is dumping to atmosphere so it effectively is). Not keen on that so no driving in anger until that's sorted as well as brakes having done a few more miles. Dirty Engine Bay:

@ApertureS @Breezy_Pete @MartiniB this hose I've pointed to, it seems in swapping over to a Forge induction hose, I've broken one of the clips and it doesn't stay connected; as the most techy people I can think of on here, do any of you know what to order for a replacement. It runs round the front of the block and looks like it T's into somewhere and then I lose it. Even its just the end piece with the clips I'd be happy with that...

Had the same thing on my previous car - Kia Sportage. It feels like a sticking spring or something under tension when the pedal is pressed/held, then releases after the pedal has come back up; almost as if a few well-aimed sprays of WD40 could do it. Re the brakes, I've always had to modulate my braking distances from car to car. I had a Fabia Mk1 vRS with Octavia Mk1 front brakes which felt like a lot of stopping power for the car. Moved from that to a C6 Audi S6 Avant and that was very different when shrugging off speed. The Skoda feels much like the Audi in that respect. There may be differences in the brake servo etc. or the relative brake size compared to the weight of the car. And 6k miles in 22 months? Wow you don't do many miles....

Thought I'd start a project thread to chart what I do to it. 2021 280 L&K DNFE engine - i.e. EA888Gen4; something I paid little attention to initially to my cost. Bought from Carr's Exeter; it was the GM's company car so had done 4,900 miles. Drove down the old car to Part-ex and brought back the Superb. Immediately had the emergency button switch off nearing home which was the first of a few problems with MIB3 software. Eventually got it upgraded which sorted out a myriad of sporadic issues. Given a bit of a clean and some paint protection - Infinity Wax Citrus Prewash, Carpro Lift, Reset, IronX, TarX, HydrO2 (easy mist on, jetwash off ceramic-based protection). The classic Engine Cover recall at this stage so engine looked a bit unfinished but cleaned with Koch-Chemie Greenstar - my go-to APC which also doubles as my main wheel cleaner too (start with an alkali degreaser, move to an acid for the stubborn caked-on stuff).