travs

https://store.ngpracing.com/products/genuine-vw-audi-diverter-valve-recirculation-hose-pipe-audi-8y-s3-vw-mk8-golf-r This is the only incident I can find of this pipe - pretty sure this is it going by the braiding and the clips on it. Is it going to be this sort of price through the dealer network?

Seem to have found its from the Diverter Valve - guess that's why I get the dump valve whoosh...

Engine: Racingline Stage 1 remap (self flashing tool) with TCU flash for the increased torque. Quoted as moving to 400bhp and 520NM (applicable to all engines with Continental turbo and end results irrespective of manufacturer's original state of tune). I haven't had it Dyno'd to prove, but I'm fine with those figures for now. What should help with the top end is the R600 induction kit and Forge turbo inlet pipe to speed up airflow - RL state that consistently gives 20bhp at the top-end so, I'm in the 400-420bhp ballpark. Brakes: Mtec drilled and grooved discs all round with ATE Ceramic pads. Standard sizes, just looks better and should stand up to any heavier braking should the need arise. Still bedding in and have noticed the DV-to-induction pipe has a broken clip so is being pushed off with high pressure/more open throttle. It makes the car sound like it has a dump valve at the mo (technically it is dumping to atmosphere so it effectively is). Not keen on that so no driving in anger until that's sorted as well as brakes having done a few more miles. Dirty Engine Bay:

@ApertureS @Breezy_Pete @MartiniB this hose I've pointed to, it seems in swapping over to a Forge induction hose, I've broken one of the clips and it doesn't stay connected; as the most techy people I can think of on here, do any of you know what to order for a replacement. It runs round the front of the block and looks like it T's into somewhere and then I lose it. Even its just the end piece with the clips I'd be happy with that...

Had the same thing on my previous car - Kia Sportage. It feels like a sticking spring or something under tension when the pedal is pressed/held, then releases after the pedal has come back up; almost as if a few well-aimed sprays of WD40 could do it. Re the brakes, I've always had to modulate my braking distances from car to car. I had a Fabia Mk1 vRS with Octavia Mk1 front brakes which felt like a lot of stopping power for the car. Moved from that to a C6 Audi S6 Avant and that was very different when shrugging off speed. The Skoda feels much like the Audi in that respect. There may be differences in the brake servo etc. or the relative brake size compared to the weight of the car. And 6k miles in 22 months? Wow you don't do many miles....

Thought I'd start a project thread to chart what I do to it. 2021 280 L&K DNFE engine - i.e. EA888Gen4; something I paid little attention to initially to my cost. Bought from Carr's Exeter; it was the GM's company car so had done 4,900 miles. Drove down the old car to Part-ex and brought back the Superb. Immediately had the emergency button switch off nearing home which was the first of a few problems with MIB3 software. Eventually got it upgraded which sorted out a myriad of sporadic issues. Given a bit of a clean and some paint protection - Infinity Wax Citrus Prewash, Carpro Lift, Reset, IronX, TarX, HydrO2 (easy mist on, jetwash off ceramic-based protection). The classic Engine Cover recall at this stage so engine looked a bit unfinished but cleaned with Koch-Chemie Greenstar - my go-to APC which also doubles as my main wheel cleaner too (start with an alkali degreaser, move to an acid for the stubborn caked-on stuff).

Constant VAG drone that AS managed to source/build himself. Looks ace - as if the project thread wasn't impressive enough...

Getting them swapped over today at first opportunity - however ironically, Mtec have come back and said they "don't really recommend" swapping them round. They've done all of about 10 miles slow urban driving. Sounds like they're covering their backs in case anything goes wrong and they want it in writing that they "advised the customer not to swap them around". Hardly definitive language though. Either that or they're effectively saying that the mounting position doesn't matter...can't have it both ways though. If it were a few hundred miles or something then I'd be less inclined to change them round but on this usage, I can't see there being any impact to changing them.

Had a Kia Sportage before this - no idea what the issue was but when crawling it would kangaroo; like a random application of fuel and clutch. Also being a dry-clutch system you were advised not to crawl in traffic. Trust me, this DSG is like heaven comparatively! Anyway, look at TVS DSG remap. Meant to be pretty much the best of the best DSG remapping with lots of features. As said on the remap thread, the TVS DSG remap for me would have doubled the cost for me on top of the Racingline ECU flash so I didn't go for it but I would have in a heartbeat if the money issue would have been the case.

Interesting. It hasn't rained much recently so that could be the lack of issue from mine (has been months). Although if the last post in that thread referred to a small hole then perhaps that can be looked for and saved. Looking at it logically (and in an effort to salvage the situation): Given it is temporary, it must be affected by the presence of water, rather than permanent damage caused by water. So solving any leaks with a bit of silicon sealant would in theory stop the issue. Otherwise if the LEDs are dead then there's no bringing them back to life. I may be oversimplifying it of course... Not sure what the warranty situation is on the cars - mine is 3.5 years old now so if its general warranty then I'm outta luck

Black Friday deals seem to be kicking in now so you won't have lost out on much if anything!

For the moment it’ll be one of those things that is clearly a thing but not prevalent enough to initiate research into it. For the time being not much you can do other than to let it get worse and worse and then see if changing the cluster does anything. Other than that, take a look at the wiring and see if there is any sign of breakdown of the wires or surface contamination if contact points.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527581-rear-light-fade-on-issue/#comment-5892651

You’re not alone at least. I have the same although hasn’t happened in a quite a while. Pretty sure I’ve read of at least one other user on here with similar symptoms. Other issue I get is when the rears fade on when you unlock at night, the inner portion on the boot lid doesn’t fade but pops on at the end. Will try to find thread. No idea if it’s connected or coincidental either.

These are lovely. Very BMW HRE-esque

Pretty good places to start https://club.autodoc.co.uk/tyres/skoda/superb/superb-3v3 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2021/

Basically, the 3 main aspects of wheel figment will be PCD, centre bore and offset. PCD is the number of bolts and the diameter of an imaginary circle that would run through the centre of the bolt holes. Centre bore is the big hole in the middle and offset is the way the wheel sits in/out from the car. Basically, look for the standard specs and match to that. You can be a ‘bit’ flexible with offset (which will be a range anyway) but too far in and the wheel rubs on the inner wheel lining (noting full lock for the fronts) or suspension strut and too far out and they’ll rub in the wheel arches when the suspension compresses. I’m sure there is plenty more to it but that’s the basics.

Thanks mate - I was putting that rumbling down to the coating, and you can see the coating already going. Have phoned them straight away and discussing first thing Monday to get them swapped over. Frustrating as it means I can’t just get out and get some miles in getting them bedded in properly etc. I enjoy driving it and now it’s going these and the remap and I’ve just got to sit here staring at it 😬

Ffs. Local VAG specialist; they’re usually very good so this is irritating that they’ve done this. I was reading a few posts on various posts that said the grooves didn’t matter comparable to the internal vanes but your post is definitive on that. Have emailed them to get them switched asap - don’t want to do any more bedding-in of pads to discs like that and need to avoid any dual carriageway stuff too.

MTEC drilled and grooved fitted. A bit rumbly which I think is wearing the coating off the contact surface. But…I’ve noticed the grooves are facing forward at the top on both sides. Not what I expected, but does it matter? Pics in case my explanation is rubbish - excuse the filthy wheels!

Yep I do not like the ride on anything but Sport DCC on motorways; comfort feels like you could lose the back end on a bend if it’s bumpy. Not changing yet but when these shocks need a refresh it’ll be B6s

Agree with classic - I tend to flick into S for a variety of situations including coming up to a roundabout where I may be slowing down but may be able to keep going at the last minute, or any reactive spirited driving such as overtaking.

Think this is for adverts only - perhaps move to general chat forum. I think cheap tyres are probably a bit of a false economy however.

RacingLine flashed at home. Was very straightforward to do following the guide. TCU flashed and then ECU. Had to do a stock update first and then layered on the update. Haven’t throttled up in anger yet but could immediately tell the gear changes and the lower torque response. Initial impressions are very positive so far!

@leolito Racechip 30% runs out today in case you hadn’t seen.