travs

Racechip for me. Thought I'd be conservative with mine and have it on Sport+ (there is Eco, Sport and Race with + versions of each for more options than you need really). Ended up putting it on Race+ and prefer the hairline trigger of it. That's a petrol so will have different response but it'll help yours significantly too.

Ha. Glad it was sorted. You could change them all to Blue with VCDS, VCP or ODIS so I did wonder if some settings had been changed which would have been naughty so glad just a simple thing.

All Superbs have: FWD (yours) 312mm Front and 300mm rear AWD 340mm Front and 310mm rear Ignore anything that seems to be contradict that as usually motorfactors aren't specific between nuances of models.

Well did my own plugs today and, having read up and learned since Rob's, the pull-and-thumb-push seems to work perfectly. Fingers behind the connector to pull on it gently, both thumbs on the clip to push up and you hear the little click; do all 4 and then the whole rail slides up. Wish I'd found those sorts of videos last week 🫣 Divine penance did rain on me, when I'd not spotted Cyl2 hadn't clicked in place so it was running on 3. Laptop out for VCDS, engine cover off to check and thankfully found the problem quickly. Cleared DTCs and was running smoothly again in the end. So much swearing though.

Agree with this - makes a world of difference to the throttle feel.

Not sure this is in the right place. Its sparkplugs but not necessarily about them, about an email exchange I've had with someone there called Peter. I was looking for new plugs for mine, perhaps something with a slightly cooler rating than standard given an amount of light tuning. Saw NGK and Bosch versions but was struggling to find stock, and found a VW forum mentioning Brisk versions which might be applicable (same engine, similar state of tune etc) so thought I'd go to the website and see what they had. Nothing was listed specifically by brand for Skoda or VW (ironically given my source) but inviting queries if that was the case. I sent an email giving a brief outline of the car, engine, context (i.e. similarity with out VAG group engines), stat of tune and asking for confirmation of the models I'd read about being applicable. First reply: "The oracle says that solution is a trial and error. Too many mods that affect too many variables. IF other owners have experienced the two plugs, then that is a good starting point, action any problems from there on." I replied trying to confirm that his response was basically to trial and error plugs and that there were too many variables to give any actual information. I found myself trying to understand that that was what he thought. The only other suggestion was to go back and talk to the tuners. Even getting him to confirm that they physically were correct for the car was a blood-from-stone process. I'm happy to alter bits on the car, but I couldn't quite fathom the risk of trialling parts on my engine; I just thought they'd have bits that would be suitable for various states of tune or not. Anyway, bullet dodged - I keep reading that they need changing a little sooner than others, so the box of Bosch sitting in the porch having been delivered while I type this will do nicely instead.

Handling. Have fitted a Whiteline arb and it is really subtle but noticeable. Really feels like the car rotates much flatter when on decent a or b road bends, or roundabouts too. 25mm, put it on its stiffest setting and enjoy!

Whiteline ARB fitted. 25mm set to stiffest setting. Feels really good. Have done some fast flowing A roads punctuated by some roundabouts and feels much less dramatic if that makes sense. Dogbone upper has gone in but the lower was the wrong part. AwesomeGTI are swapping the version over thankfully so will hopefully get that sorted this week with any luck.

We didn’t find pulling the coils themselves bad at all; but unplugging the connectors is about as frustrating as it gets and sorry to say I broke one of Rob’s. It still clipped into place but several bruised thumbs, swearing and YouTube videos for technique meant the job feels like a pig just getting to the plugs.

+10 for the UK offering. Its actually starting to look like Eibach Pro-Kit (to resolve the crimes against wheelarch-gaps) and OE Monroe with DCC Slider Mod would be the optimum setup...I've already tagged Aperture in one thread; he'll get annoyed if I do it again...

Same. Clean car, Friday. Done. Slightly more miles between but meh, I can't take it with me when I 'go'

So...after fitting the upper part, it turns out I didn't need Version 2 ffs🤯 Double-checked original part numbers with Autodoc - 5Q0 198 037 F seems to be only for Kodiaq 2, 5Q0 198 037 A is for basically the rest of the Skoda range as well as Golf Mk8 and Audi A3 8Y (another relatively positive indicator). No way was that fitting. Thankfully, Lewis @ AwesomeGTI has been an utter star in arranging to send out a V1 lower part only and then I can return the V2 when just outside the returns window so thankfully, not much and it'll be sorted!

+1 - although looking at options to get one or other (he says naively)

MOT this morning with ‘full’ dogbone and white line 25mm ARB fitting too. As long as the former isn’t so obviius the mrs thinks there’s something wrong with the car, fingers crossed it’ll feel a bit better and tighter

@ApertureS - appreciate you’ve got a lot on your plate at the mo but are you able to do the DCC slider mod?

That’s the stuff. And that’s B16s which are meant to be higher spec than B6? Better than B14 I think. So basically the adjustable features of the B16 are the only improvement over standard… Guessing no-one’s looked into whether it can be swapped for DCC Gen2 - or if it can it’ll be a monster job to reprogram everything to account for it. May well be a case of Eibach to sit a little lower, then standard Monroe with DCC slider mod and recalibration

Can you do it with VCDS? I thought it was ODIS (or maybe also OBD11?); edit, wait, no, VCP?

Do you know if they use deionised water? That would be great to spray on a citrus prewash, leave for a few mins, jet wash off and then not need to touch the car to dry; just drive off. Easy clean in 10 minutes.

No parts for the time being. Need to get the DCC slider mod done first so I can use more than just Sport. The classic is Eibach Pro Springs and Bilstein B6s or B8s for a slightly lower shock. The arch gaps definitely need closing so a lower stance will definitely happen. Although the esteemed JRRS did say that the original shocks are designed to be better - something about number of valves. Either way, plenty of consensus about the B6s being decent. Sachs do a CDC shock which is their version of DCC/Damptronic also

I wasn’t completely comprehensive as I need to give it a polish and then I’ll ceramic coat it to keep it in good shape for a while…just need to carve out the time to do it. Yesterday was perfect weather - overcast, 6 or 7 degrees, hardly any wind. Have to hope for another unicorn like that

Arch gap crimes definitely needs to be sorted.

I did wonder if it was a bit extensive for here. Merci, it was long overdue, believe me.

Me too. But more so that it hadn’t been done in such a long time. Although MOT Friday so bonus if that helps. Carpro Retyre cleaning the tyres Plenty of Iron Fallout to get rid of Carpro’s Lift to pre wash, Reset to clean up, IronX to get rid of the iron, TarX to get rid of the tar spots. Finished article; Carpro Hydro2 being my LSP of choice. Will do for now.

Yeah ok that looks like it's more on a par with TVS cost-wise; although not sure how much of that is rolling-road/labour. I went with a flash-at-home module out of simplicity if anything else. Had to buy the module (£198) but means I can reflash or change the map if needed. For the supply and fit turbo - £4k depends on the parts/labour split I guess to know whether its a costly part; I don't think its an engine pull on our engine as the turbo is at the top of the engine at the back, next to the bulkhead; if you were going to do that, you might want to look at silicon/reinforced boost hoses too and the intercooler will be the next weak point not being able to flow or, after a little while, effectively cool the charge - again, less so on real roads but any repeated throttling up and you'll end up with engine bay heatsoak. Hybrid may well be a decent offering for the price - just the headache of not having the car while they do the work. Rent a car for a week and you're still comfortably quids-in compared to a swap. Brakes I'd look at Mtec discs; competitively priced but good enough for a few on here, including ApertureS who wouldn't put cheese on his car (check out his project thread). They do a variety of options (basically for the same price) and then you can have them coated so the non-contact parts stay black rather than turning a lovely shade of "oxidisation orange". Mine are grooved & cross-drilled; you get a little bit of moaning from the grooves on heavier braking but in general you don't hear them. I was looking at EBC Redstuff or Yellowstuff pads but there were a few mentions of pads falling apart. I'm sure its very low risk, but its still more than I read about others, so plenty of options. I went with ATE who do a low-dust Ceramic pad. Seems to be doing well so far. I'm sure VBT (VagBremTechnic), Ferodo etc all do well but I thought I read somewhere that Brembo replacements were a little underwhelming - pity as they've got a monster reputation obviously (it may be different arms of the business do OE compared to the big 4-pot floating disc setups). Someone mentioned Porsche Macan 4-pot calipers which look to be a straight swap too (same size I think). Audi S3 ones are the same as original but look a bit better as they have the plate that fills in the gap and makes them look a bit more serious - I'm not describing that very well; google image it to see what I mean). HEL braided hoses are a well-respected brand for upgrading. I didn't do it on mine when I swapped parts, but when I get the brake fluid changed next I'll add them. No-one seems to be in any hurry to get BBKs, and that involves new callipers and calliper-carriers, so the cost starts to sky-rocket with that (especially starting to consider wheel size to accommodate).

Bad times. Means the only real option is a rear exhaust/catback which is gonna get pricey I imagine.