KeithCheetham

Have you seen this below video - not great but at about 8.12 minutes you will see the next bottom line shows an SKC code. Unsure which version of the immobiliser this refers to 3 or 4 so would want to use with caution to ensure you do not wipe any info. Found a video with key learning but unsure of language, and this still does not answer if chips need writing when new. Searching ID48 T6 which I believe is the chip, appear they do need coding so the VAG Key Login must only match existing keys if the sync is lost.

I had always thought that the transponder chips were uncoded, not having a understanding of them, and having seen keys being put into coils after cutting. I now assume that this was to retrieve the code from the new chip for writing to the ECU. Strangely with the VAG Key Login adverts they were listed as programming keys but all the write ups and videos I have found detail/show SKU code retrieval, but do not show or are very vague on the programming which may be why they do not appear to be available.

The tool that I used on a Mk2 Fabia for code retrieval, but Mk1 reportedly covered, was VAG Key Login which I am having trouble locating adverts for now. How To Use V-A-G VAG KEY LOGIN To Read Pin Code & Key Programming | OBD2eShop official blog I do not expect VCDS Lite to have the facility for key matching, the instructions for VCDS which Lite may not support are as below. I think that this would need the chip in the key having been already written too. Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Immobilizer 3 Key Matching Where are you based, there may be someone local - general location in profile may assist - that may be able to assist. Just for clarification - my own experience with the Mk2 was swapping the instrument cluster which contains the immobiliser (immobiliser 4 in Mk2) so I was matching existing used keys to a replacement 2nd hand cluster and not actually coding new keys.

What mathematical formula do you use based on the speeds and revs info seen to calculate if you are in the correct gear. Also could you edit your answers as there are 3 lines telling us that you are "not a mechanic or expert in anything" surrounding the single line answer to the posts question.

How are you identifying this soot calculation - VCDS etc? This may suggest ash level is excessive and preventing a proper regen, or differential pressure switch is defective. Per the normal replies, you need to have car read for any issues, and also advise engine (1.2, 1.4 or 1.6 TDI), mileage, how long this has been going on and if issue has arose since any maintenance or component changes. Have you tried a DPF clean additive in the fuel. A forced regen can be instigated through VCDS and I believe that there may be Android apps that will measure value, and maybr force a regen.

Was/is there any adaption required for the new DPF switch on the 1.6 TDI. There was a requirement on the 1.4TDI Greenline.

I assume that this question is now answered.

These kits are for the slide pins, mdfabia1969 is looking for a carrier to hub fastener repair. I have been unable to identify thread diameter and pitch which will be what he needs.

He is charging his battery not going to the moon 🙄 20 hours ago, nta16 said: He may be going to the moon if he get a shock off all that voltage/amperage accumulated in the electrical system ⚡😂. Were would any phantom current go - the bulbs negative terminal returns via the wiring to the battery earth terminal to complete a circuit - but battery disconnected.

There was a post some time ago where the below type of repair kit was discussed. Have been unable to locate that post but hopefully someone will be along who uses that magic word for the search to find it. Hopefully thread size/pitch will be confirmed as suitable. Brake Caliper Thread Repair Kit VW Golf Vauxhall Astra Ford Focus & Many More M9 5055282035122 | eBay M9x1.25 Brake Thread Repair Kit Brake Caliper Guide Thread Repair Tool UK Stock | eBay

Time to take to someone who can actually route cause the issue rather than keep guessing or throwing parts at it, You never answered my question on what distances you drive and over what type of terrain - changing a thermostat 3 time suggests that it is still not getting up to temperature, changing a radiator would generally be due to overheating rather that running cool, you have not confirmed if you have tried an extended drive on the motorway, there has been no clarification of the available engine temperature now you have changed all the above items - still 68C? which is an odd value as a stuck open thermostat would cause temp to rise and fall and not stabilised unless the water temperature sensor is an issue. To change the heater matrix did you not have to remove all the heater mixer controls?. Also details of actual model may have assisted in allowing people to identify heater system - S, Se or Elegance - as the engine was available in different trims.

No sensor, but as far as I remember you can access the reservoir cap through the bottom of the battery tray after just removing the battery.

Aux in port is a simple 3.5mm socket so depending on what I assume is damage in the centre console you may just be able to buy one and wire in. 3.5MM Audio Jack Socket 3 Pole Stereo Solder Panel Mount x 2 | eBay 12v Power Cigar Cigarette lighter/charger socket plug | eBay

Has the car been started/moved since you had this issue. Looks like issue has changed since 1st post, nothing happening then, working now. Assuming the starter gear was throwing out AND ROTATING when you tried, if the car hasn't started or moved since initial issue, put in 5th gear and push a few feet forward, back into neutral and try - thought being missing teeth on ring gear. Why are you saying crank sensor, this may only be a problem if the engine is turning over on the starter - without rotation it has no impact.

Not sure, but by having the arm operate through a larger angular position this may reduce stiction issues. For the minimal cost must be worth a try as it will take any additional drag put into the inner/outer cable by the operating arms out of the equation.

Are there any return springs fitted to the operating arm on the calipers. Cannot remember origin but theses are something I fitted on my 1.9 TDI Elegance rear calipers as they are not original fitment, VRS may be different but the general idea was to work the arm by increasing travel when letting handbrake off.

It would be interesting to know the cost of a replacement sensor - genuine or AliExpress. My car, and my daughters previous Polo, are/were fitted with an aftermarket set from London Colour? on Ebay for about £15 for the complete set-up - 4 sensors, control unit and buzzer, just needing a connection to the reversing light at the rear of the car and drilling of the bumper without removal being required.

Is there a worry of squeezing the round post out of the top of the clamp?

Any noticeable difference in cranking speed inside vs outside. Not questioning to go down the "bad battery" route as if it will crank for a minute this suggests sufficient spare capacity but questioning starter the motor cranking speed. What is your history with the car, how long owned and is this your 1st winter with the car/issue. In my current Mk2 1.4 TDI, and my previous 1.9TDI I nave never waited for the heater plug light to extinguish, just getting in and just turning the key - while maybe not as cold as Scotland we have had some cold winters in the Pennines suggesting heater plugs not required. You may also want to try my trick of running a separate heavy cable from the battery earth post to the engine to eliminate the original bad earth circuit - jump lead when cold from earth post to engine will do to test this. Someone may be able to clarify the minimum cranking speed to start injection question.

Also check the earth cable connection at the wing end as this is the only way the batteries electrical circuit is completed through the car. If you have a set of jump leads, use one connected to the battery earth terminal with the other end clamped on the engine metal somewhere giving an additional earth circuit and try starting.

Per my earlier post, did you tried using the motorway in a lower gear/higher revs - at a lower speed to stop too much outside air cooling effect through the radiator - to review if you can get it up to temp. What mileage is a typical trip, and what type of roads are these on - even though I live on the edge of the Pennines where most trips involve a climb general trips can be under 5 miles during which the temp may never get much above 70 deg.c. This may be due to thermal efficiency of the Greenline. Even my weekly trip into the office of about 20 miles does not result in regular and constant 90 deg.c due to stop start rush hour traffic with the heater sucking heat out of the coolant. Is the DPF light on constantly, others may be able to advise if this illuminates while a regen is occuring, and again journey lengths will have some effect as unless sufficient mileage is covered a regen may not complete, getting into a cycle of trying to complete every time you drive.

Which I was not really advising, perhaps rather clumsily clarifying what your actual requirements were for those going off on a tangent. At least we all now know a lot more about a Lotus. 2 pages of posts on a tyre pressure question.

Am i missing something here, the original poster just asked for a pressure for his spare wheel. End of the day, the only requirement is for the rim not to touch the tarmac while getting car home at reduce speed dictated on rim.

If same as mine , button on end of wiper stalk toggles through displayed info.

This is the item mentioned above. As it has approx 10 feet of cable it is generally very easy to locate in a sight of view. In the above scenario, 1 clip would be earthed with the other connected to the "wire of doom" then, when the ignition was switched to the starter position the bulb would light up if 12 volts was being sent to the solenoid.