KeithCheetham

What OBD reader are you using, and can it give real time data while driving. Sure that if there was no boost pressure you would notice as it would feel strong on the supercharger then go flat as the clutch dis-engages or the other way round depending where in range boost pressure issue is seen. I use Torque app and a bluetooth OBD dongle which reads boost pressure - but only as reported to the ECU and sensors.

If you look at the spec list on a label in the boot there will be a code for the battery - J0N - which relates to Battery 330 A (61 Ah) on my 1.4TDI, but I would just buy what a seller such as Tanya Batteries recommend. VW Group Option Codes Decoder (igorweb.org)

Ebay was where I sourced Vactan. Did you watch any reviews on YT?

Tapping "correcting" the issue could point to stuck brushes or a faulty solenoid. I have just had this issue on an aircooled VW with a starter that turned out to be the solenoid, not throwing the pre-engage in or supplying the power to the brushes, which I replaced. But I also found one of the brushes tight in its holder which probably explains the lazy starter. Best option, if you are confident, take the starter off and try it off the car although this will not test any starting torque required. To get the brush plate back in after cleaning, I fitted it over a socket who's outside diameter was the same diameter as the commutator which made it easy to retract the brushes in their holders on a bench, allowing the plate to be slid down the socket into position without having to try and push the brushes back in their holders while fitting to position. In this instance a replacement new solenoid was only £22.

Don't forget that there are various grades and qualities of clay bar - I used Bilt Hambler in a medium grade. There has even been mention of Plumber Mate being used. When I have occasionally used a clay bar after a thorough wash, the amount of material transferred to the clay is quite astounding - having run my hand over a washed car it is obvious how much material is on the paintwork which is not there after using a clay bar with a good lubricant. It would be interested to have a comparison of the before/after using a fallout remover. A waterless wash and wax sounds like a shortcut to sandpapering your paintwork - 500ml out of a spray bottle will not wash dirt off your car like a hose or power wash will do, and that minimal amount of liquid cannot wash any entrained grit out of your cloth.

I use a product called Vactan which is a rust converter/primer. There are quite a few similar products and a search on Youtube should show applications and results. Many people appear to be using Lanoguard as a post treatment protector instead of the old Waxoil type of coatings.

How did you test the sensor - was this by applying a pressure at a controlled value - what pressures did you use as a basis for reviewing the result. This switch will probably be a very basic open/closed circuit with the change-over at a set pressure and not a pressure transmitter giving variable resistance dependant on pressure.

This is a 1.9 SDI Mk1 - so that will be a no.

How many litres do you need to fill the tank back up - hopefully you are doing this until pump clicks off - as divide miles travelled by litres and time number x 4.5 to give mpg. What is your typical journey - distance and road types such as busy traffic, and terrain (is it hilly). An answer to these, especially answering mpg, will give people a starting point to comment as the 170-175 miles has no quantifiable information.

Not really surprised as your initial post mentioned extended cranking which a battery that dropped from 12V to 6v would probably not support. When you charged the old battery, did you disconnect the terminals. If you did and re-connected at which point it started multiple times then disconnected to re-connected to fit the new battery and it would not start, that "may" be a starting point to review. Before paying whatever extra RAC costs, and there is no guarantee that their code reader will identify what a VAG specific VCDS will see, try contacting someone in the forum in the list.

Given the amount of work involved in sourcing a good replacement and stripping what is there already to swap out, with the chance of finding fasteners that will not undo or shear, brake line removal with chance of shearing, I would be doing a thorough inspection of the current beam and, subject to condition, would be either welding back/bracing myself or finding someone competent to carry out the repair and doing a thorough de-rust, treatment (personally use Vactan as a rust converter/primer) and painting. That damper and spring could also do with a rust treatment but at least the damper must be good - shot dampers have no resistance so would not put a large shear force on that bracket.

Good job the OP has a Skoda then.

There is a listing of VCDS - Audi/seat/Skoda/VW specific code readers - owners/users on here. There may be someone local to you who can visit and scan you car, or find local garage with a scan tool that is compatible with your Skoda. Without identifying codes you will struggle to identify the issue, or just keep spending money on replacement components that are not required. There is obviously nothing wrong with the battery if you are able to "extended crank", and even a low battery would allow retrieval of error codes as these are written to a memory until manually deleted so you may even see something from the massive flat spot as issues generally get tagged with a mileage.

I had the same concerns over the car locking itself with the key inside so had one cut to a photo through an advert on Ebay. It would be interesting to know what Timpsons charge, for a simple cut and cut/programmed for the immobiliser, as the ones online are nominally around £10 without programming. Given the issues that can occur with broken wires in the doors, you may get re-locking through slamming the hatch.

Bit more reading that may or may not be useful, or even applicable to your engine. Just noticed there is a section on VCDS boost pressure reading. As usual, any readings from ECU rely on valid data from sensors. VCDS AND PD TDI ENGINE HEALTH CHECK.pdf

Unsure if reading this will be of any value, but used as a basis for belt change on my Mk1 and mk2 1.4 TDI Fabias. Cannot really cross reference values you have taken to data collected in article. Someone will probably be along soon to clarify. Did the belt change correspond to the smoke and economy issues. Surprised at the oiliness of that pipe - diesel or engine oil? Is it boosting correctly, there must be a way of reading values in VCDS or use something like Torque App on a phone and a bluetooth ODB2 dongle. PD-adjust-cam timing VCDS Idle-TDI.pdf

What make of reader was it, generic ones may not give a correct answer to issues. Suggest you try and use something VAG specific such as VCDS, user map on here, which may then indicate if it actually is linked to a DPF issue, codes do not appear to indicate this and light on dash may be a consequence of other issues. You do not need to "have the engine revs up a bit" unless this is seen as an Italian Tune Up - the engine will either inject more fuel or change injection timing/duration - on mine (1.4TDI not 1.2TDI) the exhaust temperature as read through VCDS is dramatically raised when on a forced regen and the engine takes on a totally different sound. Below link suggests parameters when doing a forced regen that may assist if it is trying to do a self actuated regen. Diesel Particle Filter Emergency Regeneration - Ross-Tech Wiki

For aux belt, be aware that there are different lengths even based on AC or no AC. The quoted belt is 1078mm (part of item number) long, can you drop yours off and measure.

2008 Brochure with colour codes. Lava Blue not listed, not saying that is incorrect but where did you find Lava Blue and a deeper review may be required. Storm blue as listed in brochure aligns with the 9462 here:- skoda Color Codes - 9462 model/year code 9462 Cross-Reference (paintref.com) brochure_fabia May08.pdf

Mine are directly connected and work perfectly just connected to the reversing light - which is a 12V. Looking how thin the power and earth cables are I assume that the current draw is minimal. Whether there is any difference between my 2008 Mk2 and your 2010 Mk2 on the Canbus I do not know, but suggest that on receipt you plug it all together and connect to 12V before drilling and feeding wires. Think I can Top trumps that one Pete. Suzuki GT380 for the misses 21st - was in the 80's though.

Yes, the sensors in these kits are pushed on from the outside so should an issue occur you just need to pull them out from the outside without bumper removal to replace. We have owned the car for just over 10 years and I think that these were fitted not many years after we purchased it, with the only issue being a break in the supply from the reversing light due to wiring corrosion in the Scotchclips used to break into the loom. Another plus is they come ready painted with colours available that will hopefully be somewhere near.

I fitted these to my Mk2 Greenline without removing the bumper, passing wiring through the rubber vent flap in the spare wheel well, just below the hatch lock, then running it into the moulded "pocket" in the nearside of the boot where the control unit and buzzer are located, and a power supply connected to the nearside reversing light that powers the sensors up when reverse is engaged. A wire coat hanger was used to feed the sensor wires from the flap to the drillings in the bumper. For positioning for the sensors I looked at photos on Autotrader of factory fit, or you could even measure off a car that has them fitted. The sound can be heard quite clear even with the parcel shelf in position. Unsure of the cost of the Skoda parts for retrofitting, or the advantages of having a sound out of the headunit. CISBO REVERSING PARKING SENSOR 4 SENSORS AUDIO BUZZER ALARM CISBO 336-4 U.K. | eBay I also fitted a set to my daughters 2010 Polo with the same good results. The only downside is there is no identification of which sensor is getting close to an obstruction but unsure what information OE ones will give - partners current 2017 Polo has visual representation on headunit showing individual sensor scan area.

It would be good/informative to know how you finally managed to resolve this issue, including the hardware used as keys can be bought - cut to a photo - which I had done to allow access should the keys either get locked in the car but to take them from basically a dumb key to fully functioning would be great.

X60 manual - AUTOOL (autooltech.com) As you will see they are connected with a cable to the cars OBD2 port taking an ECU read value. On my car, I have a 7" Android head unit running the Torque app which reads from the OBD2 port via a bluetooth dongle, with the "vacuum" gauge actually indicating boost. The Autool route is the cheaper option for the same results and can probably be placed in a better position for viewing.

I think the new route of protecting cars are now products such as Lanoguard which is quite thin and just sprays on, and into cavities. Plenty of videos showing it being applied.