KeithCheetham

As J.R. has suggested, a simple breakdown of actions and results listed against numbered lines may assist. I fully understand that technical reporting does not come naturally to all people, but this simple timeline assists understanding of the issues/actions, even without punctuation which I can read into the below myself (boy went out to start car, while engine was running got out and closed door). Please do not take this post with any negativity, we are here to help:- 1/ boy went out to start car while engine was running got out and closed door 2/ went to open car and low and behold the door or any would not open. Panic set in came in an got me car running but no access to get into car 3/ looked inside and saw the door lock switch was luminated orange 4/ luckily had spare key pressed unlock nothing except for a flash of indicators one blink feck in hell we have a car running but cant access 5/ put the key in lock and gained access closed door and tried to turn off lock button no joy turned engine off. 6/ Went back out tried all other doors all locked including boot pressed fob unlock no joy pressed lock no joy went in had a cuppa 7/ came back out pressed unlock boot opened closed boot locked automatically same thing occurred no doors opening except drivers pressed unlock all unlocked started engine all fine again

Have you tried locking and unlocking the car using the key in the drivers door handle which will temporarily cover any security issues.

Have you tried pressing the button on the underside? of the stalk that gives the option of current, or since re-set readings.

Not starting could be the immobilizer ring, around the column key, not reading the immobilizer chip in the keys. I think the fob buttons may just be associated with the central locking/alarm and have nothing to do with the immobiliser. Worth a try is putting a key in the ignition. holding the other key local to the first key and trying to start. Otherwise, a scan with a VAG compatible scanner may reveal more.

But does it run, and if it does any issues such as no power and not revving above a certain point such as 3000rpm?

You state "Tried to start". Is the car actually running as that fact could be a major pointer in fault finding. Also, being a 1.4TDI is it a standard model - 1, 2 or 3, or a Greenline. Are your brake lights working - quick search points to similar issue on a similar car.

A "cheap" 7" Android - avoid Win Ce which may be where many of the issues are seen, as many Ebay adverts call these Android - may do everything you want as I cannot understand this fascination with Android Auto/Carplay given the number of great apps available that could be loaded onto the headunit. Can you clarify "wireless" as I would expect Bluetooth to be the phone to headunit interface generally used although I understand either Apple Carplay or Android Auto require a wired connection . My £60 Android unit (fitted years ago so no doubt the units with newer Android and more Ram are even better) has bluetooth, any music I want loaded as MP3's, Sat Nav, facility for reversing camera.

If it was a simulation any drop or total loss of pressure would not be identified as any reading aligned with revs would still show pressure. It may be digital taking a signal from a pressure transmitter, or piped with a tapping from a oil gallery. Most cars do not have a constant pressure and will generally show some rise in pressure with the revs, until a point where the pressure relief valve actuates to maintain a pre-set pressure. The oil pump is generally a constant displacement type with the flow going down oil galleries and through bearing clearances. The small clearances will give some throttling of the flow, creating a back pressure as seen on a gauge (finger off then partially over end of hosepipe to understand). As the flow increases with the revs, the clearances cannot accommodate this increased flow causing more back pressure seen as a rise on the gauge. This is why a pressure relief valve, which technically bleeds flow, is needed as the pressure would keep increasing without this control. The ECU probably does not have any logic to convert a variable signal from an oil pressure transmitter to a read-out for the instrument cluster as it currently does with water and oil temperature. Breezy_Pete may be able to expand on the operation philosophy of the oil level, I know some can actually give a measured level.

Thanks for that Pete, so looking at 4 wires with black and brown for ABS, with red and yellow for the brake pad wear sensor.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram detailing number of wires and colours for each of the 2 circuits listed above running from the wheel arch liner to the strut and then to the hub. Basically I think I may have damages it during a strut removal to change a broken spring.

If you have or can borrow a Sat Nav, stand alone or phone based that would probably be a good starting point, or even possibly one of the speedometer phone apps if your phone has GPS facility as many show speed. Not sure how accurate a speedometer app would be if only relying on data generated location on a phone - GPS generally locks onto many satellites so SHOULD be generally accurate.

Quite surprised that the speedo is at least 33% out, what are you using to verify the true speed, assume GPS speedo on a mobile phone. The below site can be used to compare sizes with input of original vs options with max difference showing as nominally 3%. Tyre Size Calculator (tiresize.com)

What is the timeline of the spill and occasional over bumps issue as this could be broken wires in the door loom which is quite common.

They are a mod that may assist as arm will be moved through the full extent of its travel when the handbrake is release rather than just enough to release pressure on the pads. I retrofitted them on my 1.9TDI Elegance, you may just have to do a bit of research to identify them - possibly something like these:- 2x Rear Brake Caliper Return Springs For VW Golf MK4 (1997-2005) | eBay

For clarity and to get more appropriate responses Does it not work on any speed. Did it stop working on all speeds at the same time. What type of heating system is it, your S may be the basic system, but some models have the clymatronic? which may result in a different answer.

Do you not need to tap in to a reverse switch actuated power source at the rear of the car if the camera is to be located there, or are the power wires terminated at the end of the camera loom near the head unit. When I installed my £15 aftermarket rear parking sensors I just tapped into the wires at the rear bulb holder wiring.

Unplug the gearbox reverse switch plug on the gearbox, and bridge the 2 connectors in the cars wiring with something such as a paperclip. If this results in the reverse light coming on it will probably be the switch. It is also possible to use a multimeter and check for continuity across the switches 2 pins when reverse is selected but is more awkward to access.

First thing to check is that there is not a rusty lip at the outer edge the discs, What happens with this is that it can be all shapes and not flat like a disc surface so you get intermittent contact with the pad. If it is there, tapping with a hammer. even better a cold chisel will break this off. A grinding disc will do the same. Binding will not help as this can warp a disc due to heat generation, or even boil the brake fluid which may explain occasional longer travel especially if you are driving the car hard.

Sure the chip is for the immobiliser and not the alarm, so turning the ignition on will light the dash up and will probably start it for 2 seconds before immobiliser kicks in shutting it down.

KEY BLANK AUDI A3 A4 SEAT LEON SKODA FABIA VW CADDY POLO GOLF CUT TO CODE PHOTO | eBay Worth a punt for £11.60. I had one done, not necessarily same seller, as once had car self lock with key in boot while away from home. Just try your existing key in the door lock to lock/unlock and ensure it is not seized if you have remote locking.

You need to think what you want to run on your headunit, and how much you want to spend - mine was only about £60 but there are dearer and probably much better (Pumpkin?) units, how much would a 330 be and is it compatible. I am running a no-name Android head unit with Sat Nav, Torque and my MP3 music on board. It is bluetooth enabled but I use this for my bluetooth ODB adaptor for Torque so do not connect my phone to it. It came with a reversing camera but I have never fitted this as I am running aftermarket parking sensors. Few things to be aware of - more RAM is best, mine is 1Gb but 2 would be better. Many are advertised as Android but are actually Windows CE (think MP5 in advert may be a clue to CE). Mine was advertised as Android 8, but is actually a cut down lite version. I am running a Nextbase DAB receiver through Aux Input on mine but reception is not always great which may be down to aerial. You also may need to get wiring adaptors to the standard Fabia wiring.

I had to diss-assemble the side panel to ensure that the bolt was as big as possible, and the washer or even a piece of plate on the inner face were maximised. It should be possible to weld the washer or plate to the bolt head to maintain squareness of the fix. The fix was carried out probably 8 to 10 years ago and is still good. I probably used an excess of epoxy but the fix has proven good. You will also be able to use an over length bolt that can be trimmed to ensure it sits within the full length of the plastic moulding.

Attachments will not open but if the same as mine, I think that it is like a capped tube sticking out which is hollow. When mine started to break I put a bolt with a large penny washer from the inside, making sure bolt was size for size with the tube and also applied 2 part epoxy before fitting to position. If it is the clip on the parcel shelf itself, the clips can be bought for replacement.

Just to clarify and for my info, was this based on an instrument cluster reading as my Greenline only has the blue light and no temp gauge. 80 to 90 degrees is normal as the thermostat will have a set point to maintain 90 deg.C as a max/normal. Sounds as like @sepulchrave suggested you need to get a forced regen carried out using VCDS or similar - this will overide the requirement for ECU input to initiate a regen. After this a code clear would give the ECU a baseline to possibly report factual codes.

Do you have a specific reason for suggesting a forced regen. I would suggest trying to find someone local from the VCDS listing on here to do a forced regen for you - this is quite easy with VCDS, and being VAG specific would give some confidence on the code seen - but would also suggest trying to find out what temp the car is running at as the "blue light" is an unreliable method of identifying coolant temp as it extinguishes at 45 deg.C and I found out through Torque and a bluetooth dongle that my Greenline had a defective thermostat and was running cool. Regen requires a high coolant temp to initiate. Have you identified it doing a regen, the exhaust note on mine changes when initiated which I liken to a moose bellow.