KeithCheetham

The tank is full so no mixing will take place even with the diesel returned from the filter when running. The idea is to add before starting to fill as the incoming fuel will circulate the additive with the fuel in the tank. You could wait all month and it will still not mix from just adding it to the tank.

Suggest looking at either end of the scuttle area between the windscreen and bonnet which should have piped drains that will empty rain water, or even car wash water into the wheel wells - tend to get full of leaves etc. If these get blocked there is a chance of water running into the bonnet area where items such as the ECU are located on the firewall (vertical wall between engine and passenger compartment).

As an interim can you not lock car with bonnet open, open bonnet fully to disconnect battery and then shut bonnet, opening car with key in door to reverse. Just be sure car does not deadlock when locking as key probably won't overide this. May be best doing a trial with a window open.

DPF only fitted on Greenline version - not on 1, 2, 3 or Sport trims of 1.4TDI.

Don't you want him to check the battery as the photo shows wires going into it. 😂

Until someone comes along with a Fabia specific write up, the below is the method of BCM swap on a Polo which while not necessarily the same may assist in identifying why you need to match part number, and suggests that this is not something to be taken lightly. As UrbanPanzer has pointed out, a thorough review of your existing unit should be your starting point, maybe even resorting to suing electrical contact cleaner on the plugs and sockets. VW Polo DIY: Upgrading the BCM (Body Control Module) - Team-BHP

If money is tight, and as you have not mentioned strange noises, have you not considered just a 3 piece kit and slave cylinder on your existing DMF to suit your current wallet. This will be a roll of the dice, and could result in more mechanic cost if there is a flywheel fail shortly after fitting. Others with either more experience or knowledge may provide valuable input, but I would be surprised if a flywheel was designed only for the life of a clutch.

Plusgas was the go to product in our factory, most refineries and oil rigs I visited. The problem with just spraying is that the rust may form a barrier between the male and female threads that liquid cannot penetrate, and the initial tightening pulls the thread pitch faces tight onto each other again stopping any penetration of liquid. What it may do is bleed under the fastener head to component interface, changing the co-efficient of friction requiring less break away torque.

Having done them on my Mk2 last year, agree with Pete's comments as I had to chisel mine around, but once started to move they came out easy. Looking back, they were £9.02 each side, and replaced the screws with copper greased stainless steel capscrews. It will be a balance between leaving as is and possibly rustproofing with a product such as Vactan which rust convers and primes in one to tidy up, replacing with no problems or chancing bolts heads shearing off causing more work. As with all these corroded fastener issues, I always try to heat bolts with a pen type gas torch (giving small controllable heat area) and then spraying with Plusgas - won't use WD40 which I consider a do everything badly product - with the heat plus rapid cooling/contraction plus the possibility of Plusgas being drawn into the threads tending to aid removal. The change out was basically driven by a requirement to swap out an ABS sensor which is not really possible with the dust covers in situ.

Do you want to put some factual numbers behind this statement and what you consider "acceptable" and "relatively". Another that may be relevant is battery voltage before turning ignition on, and one after ignition has been on and heater plugs have operated which will show voltage drop under high load without alternator trying to compensate.

It may be possible to map out, although I understand that it actually needs to be still working i.e. not trying to delete because it is already throwing up error codes.

You state boost showing good in VCDS, is this required or actual, a screen dump may assist knowledgeable people assist as we have never actually seen any data to back up your statements - are you reading it correctly. Also suggest reading the following posts, the 1st is factual info on an issue, with the 2nd being how to collect and share even more valid data :-

With engine not running, have someone assist movement under bonnet while trying to select gears in the car. I had this issue which proved to be the shaft going from the cable selector into the box. Very careful lubrication fixed this issue on mine. This is assuming "super stiff" refers to lever movement in all planes and not just reverse.

Ensure it has the freewheel pulley whatever size you get.

Going straight to a 190 map will do nothing if the turbo is badly set up or not even working. Your SDI statements leads me to believe that there is no boost, but you need to identify this first. By all means swap the turbo back, but how much work is involved compared to only looking for an actual boost value. What is the EGR code telling you and was the present before you swapped all those items out, as that code could be instigating limp mode. EGR map out can be quite simple but you need to identify root cause of the overall issue before modifying things that could then add other issues to your original.

Is VCDS actually showing injectors as a fault code, or are you just looking for those values based on an internet search. What model is it, and what mileage is it showing.

Below is screen shot from in my Fabia Greenline but no boost values shown as at tickover, and not prepared to drive and take photo - I was a passenger in the Polo viewing on my phone rather than the Android head unit in my Fabia. The main purpose of the post was to show that boost pressures can be viewed real-time. This may rule out boost issues given that this has occurred after multiple changes all being made at the same time so. Cannot explain over voltage, but the screengrab was taken shortly after starting hence not showing normal operating temp.

Android phone, screen or dash holder, Torque app, Bluetooth OBD2 - does it show any boost when driving - YES or NO. Example is from a 1.2TSI Polo so boost will not be same. Baseline data will allow people to review rather than assuming the typed word which does not always contain full, applicable or correct information.

Assume this is if you have a battery charger so old that it is of the type that buzzes when you plug it in, or you live on the 5th floor. Modern chargers can be connected when the battery is on the car, otherwise suppliers such as Optimate would not supply quick connectors for permanent connection of battery to charger when cars such as classics are not being used.

Needs to be scanned otherwise people will just answer with best, and probably totally inaccurate, answers. The scan needs doing with a totally compatible ODB2 scanner otherwise the results will be irrelevant. Hopefully you won't take this reply as a negative, but given with years of experience on this forum. If you have a spare key, using that is something that you could try as starting/stopping within seconds could be an immobiliser issue but this should not happen when driving, and other issues would not apply.

Does it do it on all speeds and with/without air-con being used - generally starts with 1st speed failing issue. Burning smell may be speed resistor "cooking", especially if the fan is tight due to a dry bearing as you assume. This resistor is sat in airflow so lack of air creates heat increase with the smell emanating from the vents.

At the age of your Fabia, with an electric car you may need a 1st or 2nd replacement battery pack requiring a 2nd mortgage to pay for it, while it would still have the same brake, suspension, tyres and all the other consumables of any motor car. How that compares to yearly routine servicing, I would like to see the numbers. When something does go wrong on the milk floats electrical side - why should they be any more reliable or un-reliable that modern ICE car electrics - you are going to get you hat nailed on trying to find someone trained and with the equipment to analyse/repair or even swap parts out that will not have the same availability on Ebay or similar. You say you haven't yet put a £50 battery on the Fabia, but my understanding is the electric cars also have a "normal" battery for the ancillaries that will require replacement. Electric cars are not old enough yet to gauge reliability or real running costs for most of us - if you are posting in this Mk1 forum your car is at least 15 years old which is twice the battery pack guarantee (8 years ish) that I keep hearing.

Can't posts like this just be shut down. People come on here to ask genuine questions, but sometimes, as the saying goes on Lizard Lick Towing "You just can't educate stupid".

You may find that location can dictate prices, negating any information given. May be better getting quotes and questioning those - I think people would tend to know if you are being taken to the cleaners.