KeithCheetham

I have the old reel type lamp that has 2 crocodile clips on rather than the cigarette lighter socket, but the below combination would allow reviewing of power when sat in the car as a 1 man operation by putting the socket with the lamped plug in in a suitable viewable position - smaller crocodile clips may assist. Connecting to earth and power supply to be tested (quick test on battery before use so ensure bulb lights up). Car Battery Clips 12 Volt Cigar Lighter Adapter Car Cigar Lighter Socket | eBay 5*Car Cigarette Lighter Plugs Lamp Auto Cigarette Lighter Switching Plugs 12V/5A | eBay

Have you tried the working rear bulbs in the front and the front in the rear, they both appear to be the same bulbs. What happens with hazard switch used? Assume Mk1 facelift based on year/model/CC.

Factory kit to convert keyed C/L to remote C/L.

If you have owned it for 6 years, how bad is this economy compared to what it has been over those 6 years, and is it a recent issue or a gradually appearing issue. Also, you started a thread on possible boost leak back in July with no close out - did you find a leak and did you fix it as one of the replies here suggests possible boost leak for the smoke.

Why did you change the expansion tank? How far do you drive, if only very short distance you may never get up to temp at this time of year with short runs. Is it a temp gauge or just a blue light that goes out at 45 deg.c, my 1.4TDI Greenline always ran cool before changing the thermostat despite steep climb over the Pennines every day, You may want to get onto the motorway to try and get some temp in keeping in a low gear with high revs as a dpf regen will not initiate until you get above about (I think) 70 deg.c, but the regen should be prioritized, even try putting a liquid dpf cleaner in the tank.

May be possible with VCDS, but I think that is only to wind mileage forward such as to add correct mileage to a brand new cluster. With the cost of any equipment to do this, may be worth just looking for local professionals, or talk to Skoda dealer.

Centre console next to the cigarette lighter in mine. 3.5mm socket. Then select Aux as input on head unit.

i used Vag Pin Code Reader on my 58 plate Fabia to retrieve the pin from the original, and a replacement cluster, that I had to replace due to fuel gauge and outside temp gauge not working - the imobiliser is in the cluster, but I believe that the pin is also in the ECU as well and they have to match - and having the pin numbers allowed me to access the security side through VCDS, but I was not matching a new key, only the originals that I had. Used the below for the swap, but cannot remember if it was a 3 or 4 immobiliser as a while ago:- Immobilizer IV Key Matching - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer III Key Matching (Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki

Check the earth connection to the inner wing, this is I believe the only way the circuit is completed to the car on the negative side. If you have jump leads connect one to the earth connection on the battery with the other end to the metal on the engine with the key still in the ignition in the position where you expect the dash to light up - this must be when in a nothing happening situation. This will test negative circuit. Strange that power available for remote door solenoids only, but, strange issue - maybe solenoid current draw pushes resistance over the edge.

Are you remote unlocking the car, does the interior light come on, do the warning lights come on when you turn the key to the 1st position and do they stay on when you turn to the starter position, can the head/tail lights operate when this happens - basically looking to what extent this is effecting the electrical supply, or even if this is just an ignition barrel issue. Have you just taken the key out of the ignition, put back in and re-tried rather than getting out of the car and locking. These extra details may assist in understanding the issue.

You may want to read the following as, while this is a different issue, it highlights that there appear to be specific methods of fitting switches that requires more investigation.

If it was only changes a few months ago it will be under warranty, but more likely as Sep says short journeys. Just charge up and see how it goes. Our resident battery whisperer will be along soon.

What OBD2 software did you use for your initial scans. A VCDS scan should be considered a starting point as this should interrogate your gearbox as well as your engine and all its supporting functions, being VAG specific which most consider dealer level diagnostics. Given the depth of knowledge on here regarding the DSG, you may want to start a separate post on the box issues with a title highlighting issues seen as this will give more clarity to replies - and assist in future searches.

Have recently had to replace the resistor for the fan speed control, but have also noticed that the fan is very noisy with the bearings squeeling. Given the complexity of changing the fan motor I have gone down a different "experimental" route whereby I have removed the foam pad between the lower edge of the bottom cubby and firewall from which, by lying on my back under the dash, I can see the fan motor case which is a round plastic moulding that contains the motor. I have been able to get a drill in with a 3mm drill bit and drill a hole through the casing through which I have sprayed oil - silicone type as this had a tube on that was long enough to get into the drilling - that may lubricate the bearings OR kill the motor. I will keep you updated on outcome.

Those that appear on Ebay all look to have the wires cut. The view from the back suggesting all connectors are direct into the fuse blade sockets. Given this, it may be worth trying to identify the wires corresponding to the melted position, cut these close to the back of the existing fusebox and add a blade fuse holder between these wires.

Dpending when it was damaged, you may be able to get photos showing the extent through Vcheck or Carvertical for a moderate cost compared to how much you could be spending. You are fortunate that the seller has been honest, too many people rely on an HPI check which will more often than not tell you of cars being accident damaged but not recorded by insurance companies. Dodgy Cars on FB currently has a post on a Ferrari at £240K being sold with no details of the damage it previously had. My 1.4 TDI Greenline had selection problems due to lack of lubrication in the selector tower on top of the box.

Has it ever had a thermostat, while not the same engine I had this cool running issue on my 1.4TDI Greenline which I resolved by swapping the stat out. Also you mention a "fitted" temp gauge - the Greenline relies on the blue light that goes out at about 45 deg.C so have to use Torque to monitor this - if this is non standard where is the reading taken from. Unsure of the strange regen issue, I know it has to be above a certain temp to regen, where yours is stopping the regen when it goes over a certain temp.

Before trying to re-programme and chance really messing it up as it is obviously working to some point, try a battery from another source as the replacement battery obviously improved things - only inside car to a foot away. Years ago the range of remotes could be increased by putting the remote against your head and pressing the button.

I am unsure if this is actually Android units in general, or the cheap/cheap Win CE units that generally only have association to "Android" in the title. The other issue may be the Ram fitted, mine is a 1Gb but they are now being advertised with 2Gb.

You may need an in-line aerial booster as it is built into the Dance unit, and possibly an adaptors for the existing aerial plug (Fakra?) into the head unit, or the existing plug cutting off and replacing. Compare the spec of the socket in the new unit with the dance.

It all depends what you are wanting, I am running a cheap Chinese Android unit, think it was about £60, on which I am running sat nav (Co-Pilot free from the Google store which receives updated maps occasionally), Torque and all my music from the internal memory storage. I am also using DAB via Nextbase DAB external unit but this is not very strong signal wise, maybe due to the supplied ariels quality, or could be due to local signal strength. This was not a straight swap for the Dance unit and has been a bit of a learning curve on suitable apps for the DAB input, and wiring. The main issue with the Chinese units is that while they advertise something such as Android 10 they may only have Android 8 and that may be a "lite" version. The main thing to remember is that a modern smartphone in a dash or windscreen holder can do most things that a headunit will do.

Currently using Mannol brand, but in a 5w30 in my Greenline as it was best value when buying 20 litres. They do a 5w40 but you would need to identify exact spec to suit your motor.

Doing that does not assist if the earth terminal wire has a break or massive resistance between the terminal and it final earth point which will be why Sep suggested earthing the meters earth to a totally different earth.

One of the biggest issues with rear drums on Fabias is that the arm that the handbrake cable connects to has a pivot on the shoe which can seize, When this happens, the shoes remain in constant contact with the drum and cause drag with the resulting heat, and can give unbalanced wear and in-efficient hand brake action. The issue with the build up of rust at the disc periphery at the edge of the pads is this can cause judder as any high spot will intermittently contact the pad during the disc rotation. For this reason I always try to remove this, whether by tapping the rust with a chisel blade or hammer, grinding, of filing, All these issues are "been there, done that".

Please note - by co-incidence I am not a mechanic either. Modern diesel such a yours do not really need heater plugs to assist in starting, and would not result in loss of power intermittently. Unless you have any history of fuel filter changes, given the relative low cost I would suggest changing this as a starting point, but you need to have the car scanned with a VAG group compatible scan tool. If the car turns over at the normal speed when starting I would not expect battery issues - my 1.4TDI has always started, even with an extremely tired battery - no problem with having it tested but do not be drawn into automatically buying one as voltage has to be extremely low to give issues with running (my 1.9TDI threw its drive belt off after the tensioner failed and carried on driving for another 15 miles until issues with running showed, at which point turning the key to the starter position after switching off just resulted in a click from the starter). To clarify the issue:- Has the reluctance to start been a one off, or is it now a recuring daily problem. Is the cough/splutter just after starting, or even when warmed up and running, and is it a recuring issue. Is the intermittent power loss a one off or again a recuring issue.