chimaera

If you're running the cable down the A pillar, do not run it across the curtain airbag (this runs halfway down into the pillar). The safe thing to do is pop off the trim (it's just clipped in place) so you can see where the wire is running and avoid it interfering with the airbag.

The most likely problem if it's one seat is that the heating pad in the seat base has failed. The problem pops up often enough around here.

As I pointed out several posts back, there's no access to this from inside the boot even with the trim removed. I think you can get to it from the wheel arch if you remove the liner.

I don't think there's any reason you couldn't safely reuse the controller after a reset, but you will obviously have to replace all of the spent pyrotechnic devices (very probably the seatbelt tensioners have fired too), and had a thorough diagnostic check done on the system. As others have said, it's a specialist job to reset the controller, not within the capabilities of VCDS.

Well yes, in a left-hand drive car, the right seat is the passenger seat. I'm not sure if the memory functionality is in the seat or the BCM, and if the BCM supports memory seats on both sides. Assuming it does, you'd need an LHD driver's seat to have memory function on the RHD passenger side.

Assuming the picture is accurate, that's a driver's seat, controls are on the right .

Haldex fluid change interval is 60000 km or 40000 miles.

It should come back by itself if you leave it a while. It will have been coded to the vehicle at the factory, but it might take a little time for the car to recognise it again.

Start by sorting out the battery. Low or dead battery in these cars plays hell with the control modules. Assuming the battery you fitted is not damaged, charge it fully with a suitable battery charger and carry out the adaptation process. When this is done we can start figuring what might actually be broken.

Very often they only check that they're not too high. They could be pointing at the floor and still pass but you'll have no useful light output.

Have you had the beam aim checked?

So I just looked at the installation instructions for the TDI Tuning box you say you have. It connects to the fuel rail pressure sensor and the boost sensor and nothing else, so it's exactly the same as every other box: it messes with the analogue signals from those sensors and fools the ECU into pushing more fuel/air. Wherever you're getting your information from is wrong.

The tuning box doesn't intercept any code from the ECU and that's the fundamental problem. It has no ability at all to communicate with the ECU. All of the sensors in the engine are analogue i.e. they produce a voltage proportional to the physical parameter that the ECU then reads and converts into a number that is then checked against the map. All the tuning box is capable of doing is modifying that analogue sensor output so that the ECU is fooled into pushing more fuel and air than it's programmed to do. Literally if turbo boost is reading for example 1.1 bar, modifying the signal so that the ECU reads 1.0 bar and behaves as if that's what's actually happening.

Last time I used erWin all the docs were available as PDFs already - has this changed?

I'm looking at this from a fundamental engineering point of view: the principle behind tuning boxes is inferior to that behind a remap, because they reduce the ECU's ability to control the engine and increase the risk of damage as a result. All tuning boxes are bad because of this, just some might be less bad than others. That there are some bad remaps our there doesn't change that fundamental fact (you wouldn't argue for instance that cars are a bad idea because some specific examples are bad). When a less bad tuning box costs as much as a custom remap it's a no-brainer.

No. All a tuning box does is tell the ECU that fuel rail pressure and boost are lower than they actually are, to fool the ECU into increasing those parameters further, with the risk that they can be pushed past safe limits because the ECU doesn't know what the real values are. It's a fudge. It's also limited in what it can achieve since increasing fuel rail pressure is not a particularly effective way to increase fuel flow. It also can only influence two of the many control parameters the ECU uses. In a remap, the tuner modifies the values in the map that the ECU uses to control the engine. They can make sure the engine stays within safe limits for all components. They also have far more options for increasing performance since things like injection timing and duration can be tweaked to push more fuel without needing to increase rail pressure. Even a stock remap is safer and more effective than a tuning box. I realise that I'm unlikely to change your mind due to your choice supportive bias but hopefully I'll help others avoid this mistake.

Depending on the age of the car, the front springs and dampers could be worn anyway, they're only good for 120-140,000 km really. Even just replacing with stock will probably improve the handling quite a bit if you don't want to spend a lot on upgrades right now.

They are all bad because they hide the true state of the engine from the ECU, risking overboost or excessive fuel rail pressure. Some might just be less bad than others. A remap means the ECU sees the exact state of the engine and can therefore maintain full control and stay within hardware limits.

It already has one from the factory.

Those things are not good for your engine because they force it to run out of control from the ECU by feeding it bad data. Get a remap from a competent tuner.

First thing is to detach the glass from the mechanism - pop out the rubber bungs and drop the window until you can see the plastic pins that hold it and push them through. You can recover them from inside the door later. Pull the glass up and tape it over the top of the door to keep it out of the way. Then remove the 6 screws holding the metal plate with the regulator in place. Wiggle it around until you get it lined up to pull out of the door. Pop off cables as needed. You have to swap some parts over but that's fairly obvious if you put the old and new ones side by side.

All other things being equal, smaller disks are going to be less effective, end of story. The radius is 8 % smaller, meaning 8 % less braking capability all the time. It's also 15 % less surface area available for cooling, so they'll overheat faster. How they look beside each other is irrelevant, it's the numbers that are important. And yes, brakes were worse in the 60s and 70s but the only people around to tell the tale are the ones who weren't killed (read up on survivorship bias). It's not a legitimate argument for making a modern vehicle less safe than its designers intended.

It would be stupid and dangerous to downsize the brakes, especially on a big heavy car like the Superb. The smaller brakes are for the smaller engined cars which are lighter and less powerful than the 2.0 TDI and can make do with the lower braking performance.

I never said it was available as an option for sale. You should read my thread above. 235/45/18 is an alternative size that can be coded on the instrument cluster for the speedometer/odometer impulse number, which means tyres of that size can be used if you have access to VCDS to make the coding change.

Looking at a comparison on willtheyfit, 225/55/16 is quite close to 235/45/18, which is a size the Superb 2 can be coded to work with, so it could be done without messing up the speedometer and odometer.