peter3197

I'm aware of the differences but these ran quite happily on my mk3 1.2TSI combi for 2 winters and were originally on a Mk2 combi. They are Mytyres wheels for Fabia Mk2 and there are original Skoda wheel trims to match.

These are now going for free. I want the space back in my garage.

I fitted these, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-steel-wheels-VW-Golf-VII-Variant-AUV-205-55-R16-91V-Goodride-all-season/124080302808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 and got a set of Superb/Yeti wheel trims and put new centre badges on them.

Basically when you make up your mind whether Skoda uk are right (5 years) or sometime a long way in the future (official Skoda Workshop manual).

I wouldn't possibly argue that point with you and I use my sat nav GPS speed to set the speed on cruise control but if you use 215/55/R16 without having a chat with your insurance you may have problems with a claim.

GPS and the speedo are 2 different things, 225/45/R17 and 205/55/R16 for all intents and purpose are the same circumference and give a speedo difference of 0.38%

Not if you have 205/55/R16 which are a Skoda original fitment.

Changing to 205/55 tyres with 16" are the correct combo and I found them to make a considerable difference over rough roads. 60 profile will throw the speedo out by about 5% and on 16" rims are not an approved size which may give you insurance problems.

I would concur with the 16" being more comfortable. I came from a Fabia with 15" to a 1.4 TSI SEL with 17" and couldn't put up with the ride. Fitted 16" steels with all seasons tyres, much better. Anybody want some 17" alloys?

Glad you got it sorted. I was pretty certain it was a connection issue. I had the same problem with mine when the car I bought hadn't had a PID on it and it took a lot of cleaning of the contacts to get it working.

When you took the photos, was the ignition on? If so, it looks as though there is no connection with the car at all as the battery in the PIDis not charging. Does the radio show on the PID if it is on on the media section?

If it's that many seals I would think there is a problem with the crankshaft itself which is taking out the seal.

Ask Skoda for the service history they hold on their system.

you did ask.

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/CITIGO/Citigo-stainless-steel-rear-bumper-loading-protection-panel

Not perfect, but no one can see it and you have a functional headlight-result. Glad to have been of help.

Both my Citigos.

Shouldn't worry too much about putting a new screw in. The disk is held on by the wheel bolts when the wheel is on. If you want to hold the disk while putting the calipers on you can put a few washers on a wheel bolt and hand tighten it.

I've always drilled the top off far enough to get the disk off then put self grips on the remainder of the screw. normally it comes undone without a problem as the heat from drilling loosens it up.

That has already been looked at and appears to be different to the OP's headlight.

Good quality spade connectors I cannot help with, but it may be possible to get the connector off without taking the headlight out. If it is anything like the ebay one the connector should slide off the base. Detach the relevant wires from the loom to give a bit of slack, cut the connector off, fit spades to the wires, put a bulb in, connect up, and tape the connections. Epoxy would not be a good idea if you wish to change the bulb in the future.

Not if you use decent spade connectors and tape up each connector. There isn't a great deal of vibration in that area, I have never had spade connectors come off if they were a tight fit to start with. I would do this if I was in your situation.

There is a simple fix to this. Fit spade connectors on the wiring loom and plug into the bulb, making sure you get the right one on each. It's a mild bodge but it's only a connector, isn't it. Unless, of course, the connector actually holds the bulb into the headlight. It's not obvious from the instructions in the manual whether it does or not. Having had a look at mine I'm pretty sure the connector does not hold the bulb in, so the bodge should work.

Bulb tab slots are not right, are they?