inspectorman

Run a cable from one of the rear USB ports.

3 to 4 a couple of times, and twice going into reverse. Not an issue after 500 miles and now just a little firmer than the other changes at 1600 miles.

You are looking to get the front edge of component 1 up so that you can peek underneath.

If it is coolant then you should be able to see your coolant level dropping in the coolant reservoir under the bonnet. And eventually the coolant warning light will come on. If it is rainwater collecting in the plenum chamber then only by getting the plenum chamber cover off and having a look will you be able to rule that out. The bad news is that, to get the plenum chamber cover fully off, the wiper arms have to come off. This is not a trivial job - often tight on their splines. Levering them off against the windscreen will crack your windscreen. But, by releasing the rest of the plenum chamber at its front edge you might be able to get a good look in. An endoscope would help! Any water apart from drips is bad. It should drain through two drains at the back of the chamber down into the wheel arch, but the actual holes (I think) are covered by the wheel arch liner. You may be able to see the drains - and poke something flexible like a big cable tie - up these drains too clear them by pulling the wheel arch liner back or taking the wheel arch liner off completely. Beware of a sudden release of dirty water. Not at all uncommon for body wax or leaf debris to block these drains.

Heater matrix leak? Is it water (clear) or coolant (coloured, slightly sticky) you are seeing? Only when air conditioning is selected or also when no A/C heating is selected? Any water collected in the plenum (this is the large space between the bulkhead and the engine compartment firewall - if rainwater collects here instead of draining away eventually it will leak into the air intake for the heating). There should be drains for this space but sometimes they can be blocked. Can you hear water moving about when you turn a corner? So many questions but there is an answer out there somewhere.

Dying batteries on modern cars cause all sorts of warning light faults. But there is also a possibility your engine light fault is really trying to tell you something. Start with the battery change.

Is this any help? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475679-air-filter-change-14-tdi/ Attempting to remove the little screws whilst it's in position guarantees they will shoot off into the engine bay - even if you can get to them all. Unclip the pipes and pull up seems to be the way to go.

Here you are; September brochure SKODA_OCTAVIA_Brochure_22SEP2020.pdf

Other manufacturers, capacities no doubt available. This is the easiest solution to putting music on from a USB equipped computer, and then just plugging it into an Octavia with no adaptors or Kabelsalat.

"Standard" LED lights are much better than the Nightbreaker halogens I had in my Audi A6. Only you can decide if the 1575 sovs Skoda will charge you for the fancy matrix LEDs is worth it. Lane assist with traffic sign recognition does bring the ACC speed down from 70 to 50 when entering a set of roadworks clearly signed at 50. The next challenge will be to see if that works with the changing comedy of speed limit signs on the M25.

"Does it get hot?" is all you want to know at this stage.

Reassemble. Rescan. Is the fault still shown as a current fault? If the flaps haven't moved for a while, stiction may mean the motor can't move them - some motors / controllers are clever enough to then stop trying. "the motor seems to be working as it should" is progress. Now check to see if your heater matrix is actually getting hot.

Q1. No. Q2 no idea but you will end up on your back with your head in the footwell. Q3 no idea but at least it might give you a start - and a picture of the actuator arm will let you see what it should look like. I'd get in there and get the motor off before ordering anything, though. Reported flap motor fault could be as simple as a dislodged connector... but you won't know until you have it in your hand. Good luck. "if you put the passenger seat right back and stick your head into the footwell and look up (can get uncomfortable :)), you can see the motor that controls the heat mix, and also the re-circulation vents etc."

31 is the motor 6R2907511A positioning motor rhd; 38 is the actuator arm 8Z2819133

Alarm sensor cover 1Z0877829B?? Most mouldings have the part number stamped on them.

It looks as if the matrix LED headlights have the hockey stick shape DRLs / indicators, and the ordinary LED headlights have a single line DRL / indicator.

Test drove a Rapid on 17s when I was replacing one Rapid with another. Thought the ride - even on the motorway - was harsh and horrible. She currently runs 16 in the summer and 15s in the winter - not a lot to choose between them on ride comfort since the winters run a little higher pressure than summer pressures.

Many thanks - yes it works on her Rapid.

From the owners manual; so it looks like Android will work by both Wifi and USB cable.