inspectorman

+1 for the grooved rubber puck / trolley jack / chock of wood approach. You will need a torque wrench to do the wheel nuts up to the correct torque. Maybe a breaker bar to loosen them if some Kwikfit gorilla has left his rattle gun on 300Nm when fitting the wheels. The supplied jack is for emergencies only. Horrible unstable thing.

I gave up on the Carlisle main dealer a long time ago. Their "servicing" included overfilling my wife's car by a litre. I now use Harpers (close to Tesco by the motorway) and have had no issues in the last 7/8 years. http://www.harperscumbria.co.uk/

What kind of revs are you changing up at? Was your last car a diesel?

Get it up on a lift and check for loose undertray parts or wheel arch liners. Have a good look at the voids around the radiators. In my experience failing bearings have a continuous noise rather than a throbbing cadence.

Knipex Spring Hose Clamp Pliers. Not cheap but miles better for your temper and the clips themselves.

Yes - 3 to 4 and occasionally reverse for the first 2K were stickier than optimal. Just remember to be positive with the clutch depression but get back to the dealer if it persists. Now at 10K I can't remember the last time I felt any resistance on a change.

Another vote for 50l. One nervous fill of 47 litres (without venting) and generally 40-45 litres with 100 or so miles left on the display.

Presumably you have a reason for bothering to photograph the bushes and ask the question. Noise? Wobbliness feeling from the rear end? Diagnosing 3D problems from a 2D photo is tricky but there does look to be rather more play than is desirable in your bush. Any competent mechanic will take 10 seconds to stick a pry bar on that and give you an opinion.

" as your driving along if you didnt havr the radio on you can hear water sloshing side to side like water in a bowl " pointed me to the plenum chamber. Being able to hear sloshing in the coolant circuit implies a pretty large void in the cooling circuit which would give you some other, rather worrying, symptoms. On starting and stopping - is the fan dipping into or moving the puddle? Easy enough to pop the cover off for a look. But the bubbling on opening a cold engine does point to some residual air bleeding out.

This thread is mostly about blocked sunroof drains but it does contain instructions on how to remove the plenum chamber covers and have a look inside - this is the usual location for water which should have drained away but hasn't.

Coding the battery will only affect how the battery gets charged - it will not have any effect on what seems to be transient interruptions in supply. I ,too, would have checked / replaced any light supply relays (cheap and easy to do) but now I would be following Annoying Pentium's suggestion of tracking down earthing points (plenty on a modern car) or earth straps. The bulb connections could be quickly checked, and the relevant fuses taken out, inspected or replaced, and firmly reseated. Save your money - a year old battery is unlikely to be the issue here. Start with the main earth strap from the battery to the body and then look at any earth points near the headlights.

How confident are you your recirculation command is working properly? Increased speed on the motorway will chill the windscreen more and then the inside moisture will condense. Scan to find faults or listen to the flap working (or not). Auto setting works pretty well and controls both output directions and fan speeds. And are your carpets wet at all anywhere - could this be the source of the moisture. Easy to miss a slow wet patch somewhere (including the boot).

Is it this unit? and if so, have you lost the little clip here? The bad news is, if it's been coming loose, and has now gone to the floor, it's probably not worth refitting it in the light unit. You might be able to relocate it. Can't see that clip being listed as a spare.

At launch they proposed it was fitted for life. In the sense that if it breaks, your engine is dead, so they were right..kind of. Now the recommendation is 5 years/ 140K miles. It's not a huge job - the water pump is on the other side of the engine and not part of this task. VAG (UK) have a different view to VAG in other parts of the world on this. I confess I would be tempted to inspect before bothering to change - particularly if I felt the car had not been ragged or abused. Part of your answer is in how long you intend to run the car - if 4/5 years then I'd be tempted to get it done anyway so that you got the benefit. A nine year old / 100K car with its original belt might be hard to move on.

Get it bought. Even after being babied every month it's not that happy. You've probably had an extra year out of it already. I'd use Tayna for a Bosch/Varta/Yuasa at 110 sovs unless you can get the Halfords significantly cheaper. Batteries tend not to die on long trips (they like being charged) but not fretting is worth something too.

Correct for 16 inch wheels. 2.7 / 3.3 fully loaded. This from a 1.5 TSI 150 Mk4 hatchback. 2.7 / 2.8 ; 2.7 / 3.4 laden for 17 inch wheels.

In reply to TheWanderer's question; I used the Australian site to identify five (5!) software upgrades. Contacted my local dealer, who agreed they needed to be done. And so they were. Anyone attempting to use Skoda UK's useless checker, or not having an issue, would have been none the wiser. Front desks response to my question about why the Skoda UK checker was so useless; "The UK recall checker does work but these are not classed as "safety recalls" so wouldn't be showing on that site." So we are doomed to drive unimproved / unfixed cars until Skoda UK deigns to tell us.

I had this excitement today. But it cleared after 15 minutes. I have also briefly had the (if you've set 70 you must want 44 - 70kmh being 44 mph) excitement a month ago. In both instances the car had done a software update in the previous days. For now, it's almost as if it took 20 min of driving to reregister it's in the UK. Those who have this as a permanent fault, however, would say it's a rubbish theory.

If he's done the pads and discs it's not going to be a stone trapped by the pads. Have a look at the big metal shields behind the brake - circular in size and about the same diameter or bigger than the disc. They're cheaply made and the mounting points give up, leading to them flopping about. Sometimes called a dust cover or brake shield.

It'd be strange to have headlights and radio on the same circuit. Left and right are also normally separately fused. Scanning the car will help if you have anyone with the gear nearby. My guess would be the switch on the end of the ignition barrel.

After months of the UK checker being "temporarily unavailable" I tried the Aus checker to get - 5 outstanding upgrades / campaigns. 48P9 69BN 90Q9 97C1 97EQ Confusingly, I had 97EQ applied last December. So asked my dealer to check. Apparently, 97EQ had a fourth part, also named 97EQ, released in January. Not at all destined to muddy the waters. So I need to have all five done. And " The UK recall checker does work but these are not classed as "safety recalls" so wouldn't be showing on that site." Which is not consistent with the "unavailable" message, or the info being available on the Aus site. So how many owners never know about these recall campaigns? My understanding of recalls is that the manufacturer should initiate contact. Clearly not. This is not a complaint - infotainment issues for me have been transitory and rare.

A 10 year old tyre is not perfectly good; it's close to the end of its life, even if it's never turned a wheel. 195/65 R15 will be 2.8% faster rolling than a 205/60 R16, and skinnier in width - 7.68 in rather than 8.07 in. ET (offset) needs investigating, too. Inflation kits are certainly mostly useless. I'd flog the wheel to someone less fussy and get a new spare.

Power to the ports usually needs the engine on. But how the system shuts down is certainly complex and radios (for example) remain powered until the car is exited and locked. A lead with an indicator (like this) will tell you whether it's powered or not. Or use an inline ammeter/voltmeter

Did they take the belt off to assess the true condition of the rollers / pumps? Hard to spot anything except gross errors if the belt is still on - wear may be hidden by the tension of the belt. I'd get them to do that and put a new belt on at the same time - seems like an odd harmonic from the belt / rollers to me.