inspectorman

2 minutes will find this on youtube Filmed on a potatocam and really showing inspection and replacement but you should be able to infer how to get it off. Alternator problem easily diagnosed by checking voltage when the engine is running. 14.4 / 14.8V would be nice but anything below 13V or so indicates a problem (as long as you don't have all heavy electrical loads on).

I hope you don't have this chap's experience; (Lenkräder dürfen gewechselt werden wenn im Fehlerspeicher SOS und/oder Travel Fehler gespeichert ist. Ich habe heute mein siebtes bekommen. Skoda Deutschland ist sich sicher das es nicht das letzte sein wird.) Steering wheels may be changed if SOS and/or Travel faults are stored in the fault memory. I got my seventh today. Skoda Germany is sure that it will not be the last. Posted on Thursday. He has a 2.0 TDi with 48,000 km.

Yes. The bonging was associated with the warning lights appearing, the warning lights going off, or passing a crisp packet in the hedge. The solution was a new steering wheel and a couple of other modules (but my dealer is shy of telling me exactly what has been carried out). By reading the German forums I knew the solution was going to be a new steering wheel before the dealer did. The dealer also told me there were no steering wheels in the spares chain or at the factory. Considering Skoda were pushing out 30,000 Octavias a month in 2019, this seemed implausible. I waited over a month for one to surface and be fitted. If you get the car scanned with VCDS you will probably see; Steering Wheel Touch Recognition Control Module: Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: 5E3 959 542 D HW: 5E3 959 542 D Component: KLR 074 0019; Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 236

Yes, although for me that change happened in two stages - once when I'd pointed out to my local dealer several updates were due, and then six months later when the "travel assist not available - bong" "feature" went from occasional annoyance to full on madness. Mine was delivered with 1664; went to 1668; then 1806; now at 1896.

I have now changed four sets of rear discs on four Skodas before the first MoT over the last ten years. One one I heard chunks of the disc surface delaminating and hitting the wheel as I drove. Truly awful quality and quickly replaced by me with components from a known brand. Anyone who fits these as OEM parts needs their head examined. The truth is probably that Skoda/VAG use a range of suppliers, all driven down to the lowest possible price - so you might be lucky. The picture shows a Rapid rear disc at 15K miles / 2.5 years. Didn't bother Skoda with a warranty claim since I knew I would be fobbed off. £35 and an hours work sorted it. Now - 10K miles and a year later - not a sign of anything happening to the rear discs.

All brake pads require a little clearance to get in and out of the calipers; I speculate that you're hearing a very dry pad take that clearance up. At the next service I'd get the pads out and get a little suitable lubricant on the back of the pads and their ears. Mintex Ceratec is one type. Getting the pads out will also let you see if anything else is going on - sticky slider pins, trapped stones... the list goes on.

Solenoid / diverter valve; ruptured diaphragm; boost leak ? Or some associated hose / part? PCV valve? The noise sounds like the boy racers who modify their turbo setup with blowoff valves to make a similar noise. Apparently this is desirable in certain quarters.

Real world; Hatch; 12K miles; anywhere between 55 to 58 brim to brim. Not a lot of nose to tail traffic, though. Swiping and poking is pants but you get used to stabbing at the bits you need. It's impossible to have buttons for the level of functionality it offers - you end up with zillions of tiny buttons. By the time yours is delivered the early horror stories will be sorted - or there'll be more knowledge in the dealer chain of what the faults are. Interestingly the Golf has just released a major infotainment upgrade with a better chip at the heart of it - this might be on Octavias in a year.

Read the labels on the current one. Probably 096 or 096AGM. 120-ish from Tayna for a decent AGM. Unconvinced about upgrading (unless you have good reasons involving almost all short journeys (and even then a monthly tickle on charge will solve that)). Standard 096 86-ish.

+1 for the grooved rubber puck / trolley jack / chock of wood approach. You will need a torque wrench to do the wheel nuts up to the correct torque. Maybe a breaker bar to loosen them if some Kwikfit gorilla has left his rattle gun on 300Nm when fitting the wheels. The supplied jack is for emergencies only. Horrible unstable thing.

I gave up on the Carlisle main dealer a long time ago. Their "servicing" included overfilling my wife's car by a litre. I now use Harpers (close to Tesco by the motorway) and have had no issues in the last 7/8 years. http://www.harperscumbria.co.uk/

What kind of revs are you changing up at? Was your last car a diesel?

Get it up on a lift and check for loose undertray parts or wheel arch liners. Have a good look at the voids around the radiators. In my experience failing bearings have a continuous noise rather than a throbbing cadence.

Knipex Spring Hose Clamp Pliers. Not cheap but miles better for your temper and the clips themselves.

Yes - 3 to 4 and occasionally reverse for the first 2K were stickier than optimal. Just remember to be positive with the clutch depression but get back to the dealer if it persists. Now at 10K I can't remember the last time I felt any resistance on a change.

Another vote for 50l. One nervous fill of 47 litres (without venting) and generally 40-45 litres with 100 or so miles left on the display.

Presumably you have a reason for bothering to photograph the bushes and ask the question. Noise? Wobbliness feeling from the rear end? Diagnosing 3D problems from a 2D photo is tricky but there does look to be rather more play than is desirable in your bush. Any competent mechanic will take 10 seconds to stick a pry bar on that and give you an opinion.

" as your driving along if you didnt havr the radio on you can hear water sloshing side to side like water in a bowl " pointed me to the plenum chamber. Being able to hear sloshing in the coolant circuit implies a pretty large void in the cooling circuit which would give you some other, rather worrying, symptoms. On starting and stopping - is the fan dipping into or moving the puddle? Easy enough to pop the cover off for a look. But the bubbling on opening a cold engine does point to some residual air bleeding out.

This thread is mostly about blocked sunroof drains but it does contain instructions on how to remove the plenum chamber covers and have a look inside - this is the usual location for water which should have drained away but hasn't.

Coding the battery will only affect how the battery gets charged - it will not have any effect on what seems to be transient interruptions in supply. I ,too, would have checked / replaced any light supply relays (cheap and easy to do) but now I would be following Annoying Pentium's suggestion of tracking down earthing points (plenty on a modern car) or earth straps. The bulb connections could be quickly checked, and the relevant fuses taken out, inspected or replaced, and firmly reseated. Save your money - a year old battery is unlikely to be the issue here. Start with the main earth strap from the battery to the body and then look at any earth points near the headlights.

How confident are you your recirculation command is working properly? Increased speed on the motorway will chill the windscreen more and then the inside moisture will condense. Scan to find faults or listen to the flap working (or not). Auto setting works pretty well and controls both output directions and fan speeds. And are your carpets wet at all anywhere - could this be the source of the moisture. Easy to miss a slow wet patch somewhere (including the boot).

Is it this unit? and if so, have you lost the little clip here? The bad news is, if it's been coming loose, and has now gone to the floor, it's probably not worth refitting it in the light unit. You might be able to relocate it. Can't see that clip being listed as a spare.

At launch they proposed it was fitted for life. In the sense that if it breaks, your engine is dead, so they were right..kind of. Now the recommendation is 5 years/ 140K miles. It's not a huge job - the water pump is on the other side of the engine and not part of this task. VAG (UK) have a different view to VAG in other parts of the world on this. I confess I would be tempted to inspect before bothering to change - particularly if I felt the car had not been ragged or abused. Part of your answer is in how long you intend to run the car - if 4/5 years then I'd be tempted to get it done anyway so that you got the benefit. A nine year old / 100K car with its original belt might be hard to move on.

Get it bought. Even after being babied every month it's not that happy. You've probably had an extra year out of it already. I'd use Tayna for a Bosch/Varta/Yuasa at 110 sovs unless you can get the Halfords significantly cheaper. Batteries tend not to die on long trips (they like being charged) but not fretting is worth something too.