inspectorman

VAG recommends you use a VAG specific product. How surprising. Most of the questions you have can be answered by working out what is meant to be sliding on what? Any temperature or environmental constraints? What type of loading? PS Someone who works in a bodyshop is not a lubrication specialist.

You do know more than you think. Hinges, for example, are ancient technology and white lithium or black molybdenum grease will be perfectly fine. On very dry joints I might spray a little thinner grease to help the heavier stuff get in. Wipe off excess afterwards and you're done. The thinner grease I have to hand is Wurth HHS 2000. Good penetration and good adhesion / durability - something WD40 doesn't have. Bonnet release catches are regularly checked but door / boot locks hardly ever unless I notice stiffness. Sunroofs are tricky things with many different requirements. Here's a summary from Krytox of all the challenges you face. ISTR the VW Eos convertible had issues with its roof which were only ameliorated by liberal use of a Krytox product (at vast expense when branded by VW). Dow Corning do make a special lubricant for this kind of application but very hard to find any retail quantities (Molykote G-1033). grease oil lubrication sunroof systems.pdf

I would begin with the aftermarket immobiliser. Often they are hateful little things and sometimes incorrectly installed. But I see your Zeder is just a mechanical device so cannot be part of your issue except for the buzzer. Try disconnecting that. Then my first step would be the correction of your faulty steering wheel. Your parasitic draw suggestion is the right one. But it seems to be intermittent. As far as aftermarket GPS trackers are concerned, you should be looking for any extra wires or piggyback connectors. Easy to say, hard to do. Favourite locations for these would be the fuse and relay blocks. Good luck.

The 2019 workshop manual refers to a special VW tool - T10165 - which just winds the piston back in. The Hilka tool looks as if it does the same job.

The refrigerant gas in your Bora will have been one of the now banned refrigerants. Modern cars are running refrigerant gases which are kinder to the ozone layer - but they do seem to leak a little more and are certainly more expensive. Take your car to a proper A/C specialist rather than the dealer. He will empty your system, refill to the correct level - often with a marker dye to trace if you do have a leak. The seals will be fine and should benefit from the correct amount of gas / lubricant in the system. Max pressure is regulated in the A/C circuit and will not be increased with the correct amount in. The anecdotal statement that regas leads to blown seals omits the question of why were they regassing anyway? Seems to indicate the fault was present before the regas. My wife's 2016 Rapid, with the 1.0 litre engine, always had a quiet chirrup from the A/C from new.

The clima setting of automatic is very clever but, as you've seen, once the system believes everything is fine the air vent flow seems to be very minimal. I've found that moving the fan control off "auto" and selecting manual fan speed at 2 or three gets you a more consistent flow. This is also my solution when four up in colder conditions - the rear passenger windows do start to steam up with four people in the car. Certainly a clever system but not perfect for every situation.

Did mine recently. This video shows how to get the trim panel off. My lights were W5W bulbs which I swapped for LEDs with no issues.

Plenum chamber not draining well? If you park on a slope and it rains water may accumulate in the chamber more than is normal. Sunroof drains?

I successfully installed P0468T on a 18 plate Rapid. From memory it had only P02xxx installed from the factory. Can't say I noticed any changes whatsoever. Maybe a slight change to the graphics but that's about it.

Rather you than me. Here are some of the relevant pages; Trim; cover; window; lifter

From memory, there is a small spring clip inside the key which likes to bid for freedom. Open both your keys up and see if it's missing now on the broken one. U shaped and about 1cm x 0.8cm in plan view (looking down. As far as I know it's not available as a spare so you may have to buy a dead key and rob it of the spring.

It's a crush washer, therefore it flows and deforms to fit the sump / bolt. If it was critical then they'd mark one side "top". Keep it all clean and use a torque wrench. Job done.

Is this what you need?

Did you check the gap? In any case, dying plugs may kill the coil pack when it finally gives up. £60 is pretty cheap preventative maintenance. 45K miles is enough.

Top wrenching. Well done. More than I fancy doing.

It's fairly involved - and the workshop manual does list a lot of VW special tools - but that doesn't mean to say a competent garage needs all of them. The struts have to come out to achieve this and this means fighting a range of suspension bolts which haven't moved for 12 years. Unless you like cursing while skinning your knuckles lying on your back in the sleet I'd be looking for a professional. The springs themselves will certainly need a set of proper compressors to remove and fit the new springs.

At -32C you may be experiencing coolant freezing up. Or at least getting solid enough not to move around the pipes. Get a heated garage!

The forum can be searched. These are pretty useful too - designed to not crunch your sills. Unlike some tyre fitting places. Uploading Attachment...

Given that you have already replaced a blocked heater matrix, it's certainly possible the coolant circuit in your oil cooler is also compromised. You can only really tell by taking it off to check - at which point you might as well put a replacement on. Will your golfing chums still be your chums after two days of their golf holiday are taken up with fixing your overheating Kodiaq? 120C is a bit hot. 130C would definitely be worth investigating. I'd drive it until the warmer days of spring to see how it copes - then I'd replace the oil cooler.

If you have the remains of the pivot / sticky out bit you might get away with using a jack nut. Some markets call it a petal nut. You may have to drill a central hole through the pivot for the bolt; and I suspect you will need a longer bolt than the one which comes with the nut to take account of the depth of the pivot. So - having drilled the hole (probably M6 or M7) through the pivot, place the jacknut in the hole left by the broken pivot. Assemble the longer bolt, a suitable washer to spread the load on the pivot, and the drilled pivot. As you do the jack nut up, the jack nut will deform behind the bulkhead and will probably be good enough to rest the boot cover on. Good luck.

Access looks tight. I might try these methods (feel free to tell me why they won't work). Get a tap wound into the remaining bit of grommet. The smallest tap you can get away with because once it's in, you will be attempting to pull it out. Be careful with the tap - they don't like sideways loading. Winding the tap in too far might prevent the inner lip from collapsing and coming out. Try to get a couple of thin hacksaw cuts to remove a 30 or 40 degree sector. Stop cutting when you feel the blade contact metal, of course. With a chunk of the circumference removed, it might collapse enough to come out. Maybe a right angled dremel chuck can give you enough to start drilling holes in the grommet all the way through. These will inevitably be small and brittle drills so, combined with the drill waste going into the engine this is my least preferred method.

Start with the key batteries. I find with the KESSY system they last about 2 years so now they get changed at the 2 year point. Or were the keys on a cold windowsill? How is the spare? There is an optimal position for the keys on the centre dividing tunnel, rather than in your right hand pocket. Foil from sweetie packets around the key? Beyond that it all gets a bit expensive..

Make & Model: Rapid Spaceback SE Tech 1.0 TSI 110 Year: 2018 Colour: Denim Blue Mileage: 59000+ miles Price: £6.5k ovno Description: Amazing car which we have had from new but time for a replacement. Mostly driven by my wife (retired) on Shell V-Power and sometimes by me (retired engineer). Latest Skoda maps installed on navigation system plus a speed camera database. DAB / FM radio. This will easily do 60mpg on the motorways but more usually 47/48 mpg in mixed running. Higher powered 1.0 litre engine with 110 bhp and six gears. Rear parking sensors. Both keys .. and not a single advisory in its MoT history. Condition: Used. Service History: Full service history (including the expensive (and now deemed unnecessary) cambelt change in 2023. Folder full of receipts. Extras: Heated seats. Xenon headlights. Proper spare wheel and tools. Storage compartment dividers and curry hooks fitted. Boot lip guard fitted. All interior lights LED. Bad points; small ripple in rear driver side door caused by inconsiderate SUV nimrod who couldn't park. Who then drove off (as they do). Offered here first before I get going on the usual channels - new car delivery may be in about eight / nine weeks or so. Collection: Cumbria.