inspectorman

Seems a little excessive if the only damaged part is the lower spoiler. If, however, the attachment points on the bumper have been ripped off then maybe that's why they want to sell you a new bumper. Even so, it may be feasible to remake the attachment points by plastic welding. Take the destroyed spoiler off yourself and make your own mind up on the condition of the bumper. 928 euros buys a lot of cable ties.

Scrappies, probably. The key is common to many later VW/Seats as well. A1 German Breakers in Oldham? Germanbitz in Bolton?

VAG Technik over in Eccles have always been fine for my niece.

This is for the halogen headlights in the Rapid

This is what you are looking for, protruding through the bodywork underneath somewhere near the rear wheel arch. The cruciform closure is almost designed to catch crap and then block up. Solution is usually to snip 3/4mm off the end and then rod the tube with a flexible cable - garden strimmer wire or a bike inner cable, say. It helps if you have an assistant carefully dribbling water into the sunroof surround. The other failure I have seen is the tube running down wards losing its connection to the sunroof or the first section of tube. Someone will be along shortly to show exactly where it is in the underside of the body.

You are not the first.

Plenty will fit. Once you have assured yourself the wheels fit the 5-hole fixing of the rims, diameter of the bolt circle 112 mm, diameter of the central hole of rim 57 mm, then you move on to finding out if they meet the rim (expressed usually as 6.5J or 7J etc), diameter (here you want 17 or 18) and offset or ET. This will be specified as ET45 (say) - each increment / decrement is 1mm so anything up to about 4 or 5mm difference is not too crucial. But aim for as close as you can get. Your owners brochure might give you the exact spec of the recommended winter wheels. From the Octavia section of a recent Skoda wheel catalogue, in 17 or 18 you could choose Luxon, Comet, Braga, Perseus, Lyra, Vega Aero, Pulsar, Aries and Rotare. Searching your favourite auction site for Skoda, VW, Audi and Seat alloys will give you plenty more options. 18 inch wheels will demand less sidewall, more expensive tyres, more chance of damaging the alloys and a harsher ride. But your car may look smarter in the chiropractor's car park.

I take it you have changed the front left ABS sensor, yet it still shows up in this scan as faulty? You may have fitted a faulty, new sensor. Or the connection plug is not making proper electrical connection. The ABS sensor housing may have some rogue flakes of rust in the bottom. Or you may have a break in the wiring to that sensor. The faults after a bumpy road might indicate that. Odd that so many of the minor faults show a frequency of 10 events. This implies they are all linked somehow. The year old battery is unlikely to be the issue but a quick check of all major connections - and the alternator connections - might be worth doing. Looks like you could do with an updated VCDS interface to get the most information out of this. Clear all DTCs and report back.

New light switch. Unfortunately you cannot get a new nephew.

Dealer might load software 1941 if you have any of the problems outlined in the TPI in the thread "infotainment system restarting endlessly". Navigation database should be on 23.5 or 23.6 by now. Maybe the navigation database is only updated if you pay for the annual infotainment online (for Columbus and Amundsen systems).

GavinR's problems are unlikely to be a complete ABS system. Individual ABS sensor failures can give the symptoms described. A £10 multimeter is perfectly capable of checking the ABS sensor resistances. And at 10-20 sovs a sensor, a pretty easy fix. Don't use your useless local dealer. Being charged £350 for a Fabia battery is easily 200% too much. Plenty of auto electricians in Poole who can help.

All done thanks to varoom's file. One over the air update immediately followed reboot; and no problems.

Having relied forever on deliberately saving a scan in a specific location - yes, there is also a list of autosaved scans in C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Scans, from when I started using this laptop. 23.3.1 currently loaded. 19.6 would have been loaded when I did the first scan on this.

No pictures of the disassembly wedge or where the vent is clipped but a matter of trial and error. Once it's out I'd also look at the expanding rivets securing the intermediate piece, too (if you can see them). Endoscope maybe ideal here.

My money is on the sensor failing. Especially if you have warning lights on before you turn a wheel. ABS ring pretty low tech and nowhere much to go without being an obvious fail.

I don't know what engine code you have so you'll have to scroll down the page to the various cooling systems. This is for 2012 Octavias for the Euro market; the only other options are China and All; I'm unsure about where Oz variants are listed. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/663/1

This is what I meant

You only need to find someone with a computer who can rip cds to a USB stick. The double-ended USB sticks will take care of the case that the computer has USB 2 sockets, but the car has USB 3 sockets. You may need to pay them extra to handle your Max Bygraves CDs.

12 point triple square. You will destroy a torx bit trying to use it. Not 12 point double hex - point angles will be different. M10 is my guess.

Fixed a few of these; as JR said, the clips are fragile and give up easily. Black masking tape only works for about 6 months; my preferred fix nowadays is drilling a small hole or two and using cable ties. Worth checking the activated charcoal / fuel vent fittings at the diesel tank end as well as underbonnet leakage. Diesel fumes from an unconnected / failing fuel tank vent system can get sucked into the passenger compartment.

A102S is for LHD fitment.

I asked Bosch this question 18 months into ownership since their catalogue didn't show any entries. Eventually they said A860S but as SteveTheElder has found the driver side blade is too short. I ended up buying two singles; AP26U and AP19U which fit perfectly (650mm and 475mm). Can't help with the rear. A310S looked promising but none of the online checkers wanted to admit it might fit the Octavia.

Current handbooks are quite specific about using an earth point rather than the negative terminal of the battery. The point about venting hydrogen being a thing of the past is well made, but by using an earth point you are taking a more direct path for starting current to get back to the donor battery / car from the dead starter. There is also some discussion about battery management gubbins not enjoying jump starts.

If your car is early enough, this may not be the issue it is on current Skodas. What does your handbook say on attaching charging leads? The same points can be used for jump start leads. If you have no steer from the handbook, any solid metal bit of the engine / gearbox will do. You also need to be able to safely remove the jump lead while the engine is running. Truly fussy people would measure the resistance between the bit of metal chosen and the battery post. No or very low resistance is what you seek. Crappy tin induction shields, ECU cases or metal clips on plastic pipes are not recommended.