inspectorman

Dealer might load software 1941 if you have any of the problems outlined in the TPI in the thread "infotainment system restarting endlessly". Navigation database should be on 23.5 or 23.6 by now. Maybe the navigation database is only updated if you pay for the annual infotainment online (for Columbus and Amundsen systems).

GavinR's problems are unlikely to be a complete ABS system. Individual ABS sensor failures can give the symptoms described. A £10 multimeter is perfectly capable of checking the ABS sensor resistances. And at 10-20 sovs a sensor, a pretty easy fix. Don't use your useless local dealer. Being charged £350 for a Fabia battery is easily 200% too much. Plenty of auto electricians in Poole who can help.

All done thanks to varoom's file. One over the air update immediately followed reboot; and no problems.

Having relied forever on deliberately saving a scan in a specific location - yes, there is also a list of autosaved scans in C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Scans, from when I started using this laptop. 23.3.1 currently loaded. 19.6 would have been loaded when I did the first scan on this.

No pictures of the disassembly wedge or where the vent is clipped but a matter of trial and error. Once it's out I'd also look at the expanding rivets securing the intermediate piece, too (if you can see them). Endoscope maybe ideal here.

My money is on the sensor failing. Especially if you have warning lights on before you turn a wheel. ABS ring pretty low tech and nowhere much to go without being an obvious fail.

I don't know what engine code you have so you'll have to scroll down the page to the various cooling systems. This is for 2012 Octavias for the Euro market; the only other options are China and All; I'm unsure about where Oz variants are listed. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/663/1

This is what I meant

You only need to find someone with a computer who can rip cds to a USB stick. The double-ended USB sticks will take care of the case that the computer has USB 2 sockets, but the car has USB 3 sockets. You may need to pay them extra to handle your Max Bygraves CDs.

12 point triple square. You will destroy a torx bit trying to use it. Not 12 point double hex - point angles will be different. M10 is my guess.

Fixed a few of these; as JR said, the clips are fragile and give up easily. Black masking tape only works for about 6 months; my preferred fix nowadays is drilling a small hole or two and using cable ties. Worth checking the activated charcoal / fuel vent fittings at the diesel tank end as well as underbonnet leakage. Diesel fumes from an unconnected / failing fuel tank vent system can get sucked into the passenger compartment.

A102S is for LHD fitment.

I asked Bosch this question 18 months into ownership since their catalogue didn't show any entries. Eventually they said A860S but as SteveTheElder has found the driver side blade is too short. I ended up buying two singles; AP26U and AP19U which fit perfectly (650mm and 475mm). Can't help with the rear. A310S looked promising but none of the online checkers wanted to admit it might fit the Octavia.

Current handbooks are quite specific about using an earth point rather than the negative terminal of the battery. The point about venting hydrogen being a thing of the past is well made, but by using an earth point you are taking a more direct path for starting current to get back to the donor battery / car from the dead starter. There is also some discussion about battery management gubbins not enjoying jump starts.

If your car is early enough, this may not be the issue it is on current Skodas. What does your handbook say on attaching charging leads? The same points can be used for jump start leads. If you have no steer from the handbook, any solid metal bit of the engine / gearbox will do. You also need to be able to safely remove the jump lead while the engine is running. Truly fussy people would measure the resistance between the bit of metal chosen and the battery post. No or very low resistance is what you seek. Crappy tin induction shields, ECU cases or metal clips on plastic pipes are not recommended.

Don't have a rug, or an estate, but have some photos of the install in a hatchback. It did take me some time to work out where the front was meant to go.

JR seemed to have diagnosed this; "The noise could equally be the tin foil backplate having rusted and fractured at the mounting points, that corresponds more with your description"

Try these people; https://wheellockingkeys.com/product/locking-wheel-nut-key-matching-service/ I'd use a black Sharpie to highlight either the high points or the low points (not both!) to get a better picture of your nut. You have four goes at this.....

The online diagrams are pretty horrible without the engine in front of you but this might be your engine - CBZA or CBZB ; In which case part 35 is Doesn't look like it comes as one hose. Link for all these coolant layouts is at https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RAP/740/1

Three months after changing mine I got the warning. Annoying but changed it again. The error message persisted. Eventually I realised the spare key - which lives in an allegedly RF proof pouch a long way from the car - had somehow contacted the car to tell it it was sad. Changed that one and all was OK. Got 2+ years out of the first set. The dealer might not have changed both.....

Tyre pressures last checked?

I'd start with the connector strip first, then the individual bulb holders. A bit of TLC on all contacts might save you having to replace the whole lot. Is this the connector to the rear light? Separate, inspect and clean.

Over on the German O4 forum, 4tz3nhainer states :"My current status is that 1899 is the latest version for the old hardware H56. 1898 is the latest version for the new hardware H58." I have no idea if this is correct or not but a number of people seem to have one or the other of these releases.

Electric.pdf appears to refer to the CanBus gateway module 6C0 909 901 A. The other appears to be a motor control unit. Given all errors have occurred only once at about the same time, I'd keep your VCDS results logged, clear all DTCs, and wait to see if it reoccurs. Chasing spurious and intermittent VCDS fault codes is rarely productive unless the fault is manifesting itself on the car. Your radio issue, for example, may be obvious if you have no, or poor, digital radio reception.

Relay terminal numbers follow a DIN standard (and have done since the 80s). On the base of a 4 pin relay will be 86 and 85 (low current switch and earth) and high current supply 30, then 87 is the high current output to device (in this case the starter motor). Your mechanics will know exactly what you're on about and it should be one of the first things to check with the symptoms you have. My money is still on the ignition switch.