inspectorman

There is a map of VCDS owners. Unfortunately no-one in Northampton has signed up but MK, Bedford and Kettering all have people who may or may not wish to help. A 5 minute job. https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk

This panel is just in front of your knees, not too obvious, and will require a sharp tug to get the cover off. Fan is 24.

This is the fuse panel from a 2018 1.0 SE Tech. I would say your feed needs to plug back in to the bottom row, 2nd position in from the left. If the fuse protecting the car circuit is 7.5A then that's confirmation. This is marked as infotainment screen in the handbook. Who knows if this will fix your issues? Other suspects are 15 (A/C) (2nd from right on lower minifuses), 24 (blower for A/C) (5th from left on right hand middle row between the square fuses), not 31 - (this is also fuel pump so the car won't run). Finally - not impossible the previous owner just stuck it in a switched live socket that worked for him. But that wouldn't explain your other faults.

Glove box lid. Solved with a little bit of sticky backed foam. The weedy plunger springs in the dash are meant to hold the lid down on its catches - but it's all plastic on plastic with no damping or softness, and scope to move L/R / up/down a little. Hence the noise.

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1. No. In my view it's an ugly superfluity. 2. The aerodynamics seem to clean the rear screen pretty well. With or without magic polysiloxanes. 3. I have replaced a number of VAG and other rear wipers over the years. The material selection for the hollow spindle affair used to supply water is always driven by accountants rather than engineers. It breaks. 4. Never had the joy of supply pipe joins failing and slowly filling spare wheel wells with water. after they've saturated the boot carpet. 5. No semicircular scratches on the rear screen from a gritty rear screen wiper. 6. But I wouldn't remove it if it came with one fitted!

Can you select sport in the drive mode? On normal setting the car does not feel like a 150 bhp car. This is from a DCC equipped car but you get the idea

The trim is available as an extra. Read https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/324026-spaceback-boot-storage-boxes-now-fitted/

I think you need to have specified "Travel Assist. Includes traffic sign recognition, adaptive lane assist, predictive adaptive cruise control and traffic jam assist." in the options list for this to work.

Adblue injector. Range of VW part numbers - VW 04L131113P 04L131113K 04L131113L 04L131113R 04L131113G

Generic scissor jack may not have the correct top to engage with the designated points on the sills. The profile of the jacking point is not flat. Plenty on your favourite auction site.

So are you saying McDonald's ketchup is excellent mouse poison?

It's very handy. But it's reactive - in the sense that nothing happens until it's read and processed the sign - I prefer to be knocking cruise off as soon as I see a speed limit sign in the distance. Most useful when the local authority can't make up its mind about speed limits and they're constantly going up and down. There's little evidence of a predictive function, except for the occasional "foot off accelerator - approaching roundabout" type of message. This is on a 1.5 SEL with " Lane Assist with Traffic Sign Recognition " in the UK market. The relevant brochure describes the SEL as having ACC as standard, with "Travel Assist. Includes traffic sign recognition, adaptive lane assist, predictive adaptive cruise control and traffic jam assist." in the options list.

Good news! Now, what about your water/coolant issue? Any progress?

The laws of physics haven't changed. Max recommended recharge rate for lead acid is 1/10th of the Ah rating - so a 70Ah battery should not receive more than 7A. Now - assuming the car can supply this consistently (mostly yes) - it would take ten hours of driving x 7A to get to a full battery. Much simplification here but you see how you need a perfect 10 hour drive to get back up to full charge. A fast drive along an A road won't do it. Or sitting on the drive idling.

Your real problem is Skoda are using H15 bulbs for main beam. These also have the DRL filaments in. I was never able to find the usual Nightbreaker / Philips equivalents for brighter main beams - it's not a popular bulb type and the manufacturers didn't (or couldn't) improve the output. Eventually I specified Xenons on the replacement Rapid and they are actually usable at night.

Run a cable from one of the rear USB ports.

3 to 4 a couple of times, and twice going into reverse. Not an issue after 500 miles and now just a little firmer than the other changes at 1600 miles.

You are looking to get the front edge of component 1 up so that you can peek underneath.

If it is coolant then you should be able to see your coolant level dropping in the coolant reservoir under the bonnet. And eventually the coolant warning light will come on. If it is rainwater collecting in the plenum chamber then only by getting the plenum chamber cover off and having a look will you be able to rule that out. The bad news is that, to get the plenum chamber cover fully off, the wiper arms have to come off. This is not a trivial job - often tight on their splines. Levering them off against the windscreen will crack your windscreen. But, by releasing the rest of the plenum chamber at its front edge you might be able to get a good look in. An endoscope would help! Any water apart from drips is bad. It should drain through two drains at the back of the chamber down into the wheel arch, but the actual holes (I think) are covered by the wheel arch liner. You may be able to see the drains - and poke something flexible like a big cable tie - up these drains too clear them by pulling the wheel arch liner back or taking the wheel arch liner off completely. Beware of a sudden release of dirty water. Not at all uncommon for body wax or leaf debris to block these drains.

Heater matrix leak? Is it water (clear) or coolant (coloured, slightly sticky) you are seeing? Only when air conditioning is selected or also when no A/C heating is selected? Any water collected in the plenum (this is the large space between the bulkhead and the engine compartment firewall - if rainwater collects here instead of draining away eventually it will leak into the air intake for the heating). There should be drains for this space but sometimes they can be blocked. Can you hear water moving about when you turn a corner? So many questions but there is an answer out there somewhere.

Dying batteries on modern cars cause all sorts of warning light faults. But there is also a possibility your engine light fault is really trying to tell you something. Start with the battery change.

Is this any help? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475679-air-filter-change-14-tdi/ Attempting to remove the little screws whilst it's in position guarantees they will shoot off into the engine bay - even if you can get to them all. Unclip the pipes and pull up seems to be the way to go.

Here you are; September brochure SKODA_OCTAVIA_Brochure_22SEP2020.pdf