inspectorman

Finally had a chance to look at the Rapid. This 2018 UK Rapid does have a cover over the intake. More amusingly - having accused Joller79DK of living on a farm - found about a tennis ball's worth of mud in the plenum which had accumulated in there over the past 4 years. So that got cleared out. I am reminded of Matthew 7, verse 3; Og hvorfor se du den mote, der er i din broders øje, men ikke overveje den bjælke, der er i dit eget øje??

If you have access to VCDS you can see the fault count increasing. This will pop up under Address 19: CAN Gateway These two readings are taken about a month and 300 miles apart - that's how little I was driving it because of the annoyance. 8786912 - Control Module for Steering Wheel Touch Detection B17B8 F2 [044] - Sensor Malfunction [Control_module_for_steering_wheel_touch_regulation_malfunction_sensor_1] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 71 8786912 - Control Module for Steering Wheel Touch Detection B17B8 F2 [047] - Sensor Malfunction [Control_module_for_steering_wheel_touch_regulation_malfunction_sensor_1] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 236 After being fixed I could see two relevant modules changed; from: Multifunction steering wheel control module: Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 5E3 919 719 D HW: 5E3 919 719 D Component: E221__MFL-PR6 H02 0100 Serial number: PR6-0440061177202521 Steering Wheel Touch Recognition Control Module: Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: 5E3 959 542 D HW: 5E3 959 542 D Component: KLR 074 0019 to Multifunction steering wheel control module: Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 5E3 919 719 M HW: 5E3 919 719 M Component: E221__MFL-PR6 H02 0110 Serial number: PR6-0440061067221393 Steering Wheel Touch Recognition Control Module: Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: 5E3 959 542 H HW: 5E3 959 542 H Component: KLR 082 0020 Serial number: 3133273AB22075068003

Yes, this fault will get worse and drive you mad. The solution is a new steering wheel. One unfortunate in Germany has had seven replacement steering wheels....... I had to wait a month for a steering wheel to become available.

Not a First Edition but an SEL delivered in Oct 2020 - currently on 1896.

Can't look for a few days but based on your photo, I'd check that your plenum drains are clear. Seems to be a bit more sediment than normal - or maybe you live on a farm.... Easy enough to check it's all draining as it should.

These engines had significant timing chain issues from new. Yours is young enough to be built after the major revision at the end of 2011 but the revised engine also had timing chain wear issues. Plenty of info here - most of the early pages relate to the 2011 and earlier engines but some useful information on the post 2011 engines later in this thread.

The mirrors in the Se L are heated, and adjustable, with folding always or on command. It's the memory function they don't have (which is really part of the memory seats)

Sep 2020 brochure

Autotr***r looks like £6k - £7.5K for your car

Not the reply you want - seems like your DMF and /or clutch are dying. Bit more expensive than engine mounts - which tend to be single clonk type noises as you go on/off power.

Inner clearance will be 4mm less; outer clearance will be 8mm further out.

Described as mirror frame. Part number might be 5JA 857 532 C 9B9 5JA 857 532 5JA 857 532 C and www.skoda-parts.com have two in for R/H at the moment. Your local Skoda dealer may well be able to get it too. Speak nicely to the parts guy. I'd practice getting the glass and frame off first in case you need to order the glass as well.......

The only way I can see to achieve this is to reset the long distance data before your road trip. Then, up to 99 hours or 10K km you should be able to see a summary of time and distance; but only on the central infotainment screen.

Three bulbs in each rear cluster are part of the sidelight circuit

Yes, the headlight marking on the switch hardly lights up at all. Some other VAG switches like 5JD 941 531 look very similar but would have to be checked for pin markings and connector block dimensions. And I'm not sure if the white nylon female torx connector in the back of the switch is significant or not. Breakers in Bristol with a Rapid? Don't forget the rear sidelights as parts of your checks.

Number plate bulbs out next. The successful run with no side light bulbs was not the answer.

Progress! Have a good look inside the holders, too.

Can't see a pattern in your statements pointing to a particular light position. But, at 8 years old, good practice to get all the bulbs out of their holders and inspect the bulbs and holders for unpleasantness. Any corrosion or darkening of the bulb glass should get them replaced. Don't forget the number plate bulbs. Switches do die. £20 will get you another. Is there only one fuse for the entire lighting circuit? The 2014 Rapid manual I'm looking at has ten separate fuses covering the lights (dependent on what's fitted). Which one are you replacing?

This guy managed it with a knife. Looks like a Polo flap release; the motor is changed from the outside by removing the mounting screw and pulling the whole tank neck shroud out.

People use all sorts of grease on slider pins; usually what they have to hand at that moment. Quite a lot are unsuitable for long term use and will migrate from the bearing surface, damage the bearing surface, rot the rubber and generally cause headaches. Silicone grease is not normally recommended for metal/metal surfaces and what you have may not have the high temperature / pressure specifications of a dedicated guide pin grease like Molykote G-3407 https://www.dupont.com/products/molykote-g-3407-caliper-pin-grease.html. Hard to find in small quantities but occasionally pops up on your favourite auction site. Wurth make a brake paste but only rate it to 160C and not the 200C of the G-3407. But at least you can buy it easily in sachets. Or Proslip pin grease. Ceratec from Mintex is OK. New pins are cheap enough and will remove any doubts about galling caused by incorrect lubrication.

Near Aldermaston? Only near there or throughout Hampshire? Some interesting pulsed reactors inside the perimeter. Not to mention the EMP simulator.

Here you go. I had forgotten the foam tape glue got a bit tired last summer so I had replaced the foam tape with some silicone / rubber dots. 5 small ones along the top edge and one bigger one down each side. Kwality.com.

Solved with a little bit of sticky backed foam. The weedy plunger springs in the dash are meant to hold the lid down on its catches - but it's all plastic on plastic with no damping or softness, and scope to move L/R / up/down a little. Hence the noise.

VagCom or VCDS is the only way, I believe.

Model? Engine type? If it's a 2016 2.0 Tdi Octavia (engine CKFB, CKFC, CRVC ) Then the answer is M6 x 16. Easy enough to test with whatever you might have lying around. N 10338903 hex collared bolt M6 x 16