inspectorman

Cover (panel) needs to come out. The glass should sit in two little carriers which runs up the guide channels.

440 does refer to the cold cranking amps. Easiest way to resolve this is for you look in the Mk 1 Fabia section. Seems like 027 is the way ahead. CCA not anything you should get too fixated about. See Tayna.co.uk for a decent range of batteries and quick service.

Post a photo of the battery and tell us what the measurements are - Height, width, depth. The UK info seems to show 027 type batteries for your car, which seem a bit bigger than the one you have fitted. Is this yours? 063 is the type, not 062.

Dying / dead ABS sensors can give you these kinds of unhelpful error messages. VCDS scan may find that error code. Battery voltages are an easy check to give you a feel if the battery is the issue.

Any room for one of these? Through the slit or past the edge of the moulding?

WikiP thinks it's DGEA. UK registration documents also have the engine code on the engine number

Rotate the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. Now put a small amount of PlusGas on the edge of the cap and it will work its way down into the corrosion. After 15/20 minutes have another go. I personally wouldn't be happy about the valve after you'd got the cap off and would be saving up for a new valve at the tyre fitters.

Your handbook will tell you where the jacking points for each side are. Pop the axle stand just behind / inboard of the jacking points where you can see solid metal; do not rest the moulded sill of the body - where the official jacking point is - on an axle stand. A rubber puck with a slot in it will stop your shiny new hydraulic jack making a mess of your sill. You only need one wheel at a time in the air to do the discs and pads.

Looks like it has the same part number as the Mark 3 - albeit with an extra E. If Part 28 pops off easily you should see the offending ratchet bits But it should be them sorting this, not you.

You are not going mad. The ratchet sound (four positions) happens no matter how I grip the armrest. Your ratchet mechanism is faulty. PM me if you want a comparison video.

Go to 16 or even 15 inch wheels. Looks like you can have 205/55 16, 205/60 15 or 195/65 15.

Removing the power lead to the motor seems to be more foolproof than trying to code something almost nobody else in the world has done.

You might want to read through the thread titled "Infotainment System Restarting endlessly" - page 26 summarises what you can do yourself. In short, if you are not on software 1941 it may fix your problem. Bonne chance.

It is in the fan housing, positioned in the trunking from the fan to the central distribution assembly. See component 8 (this may be for a LHD drive Rapid). Undoubtedly a pain to get to. Start by taking the glovebox off and having a good look at the fan trunking. This chap is dealing with a LHD Fabia but it'll be similar. He finds it at 2:43. I'd start with a 10 quid cheapie - if it dies the job will be much quicker the second time.

Find someone friendly with a screwdriver and a bit of a clue to get the remains of the spoiler off and have a look for you. The worst thing that can happen is you hand the spoiler you've bought to the main dealer and say yes, I do need a bumper. Doesn't sound like he wasted much time assessing the issue (but quite liked the profit on a bumper replace job).

Seems a little excessive if the only damaged part is the lower spoiler. If, however, the attachment points on the bumper have been ripped off then maybe that's why they want to sell you a new bumper. Even so, it may be feasible to remake the attachment points by plastic welding. Take the destroyed spoiler off yourself and make your own mind up on the condition of the bumper. 928 euros buys a lot of cable ties.

Scrappies, probably. The key is common to many later VW/Seats as well. A1 German Breakers in Oldham? Germanbitz in Bolton?

VAG Technik over in Eccles have always been fine for my niece.

This is for the halogen headlights in the Rapid

This is what you are looking for, protruding through the bodywork underneath somewhere near the rear wheel arch. The cruciform closure is almost designed to catch crap and then block up. Solution is usually to snip 3/4mm off the end and then rod the tube with a flexible cable - garden strimmer wire or a bike inner cable, say. It helps if you have an assistant carefully dribbling water into the sunroof surround. The other failure I have seen is the tube running down wards losing its connection to the sunroof or the first section of tube. Someone will be along shortly to show exactly where it is in the underside of the body.

You are not the first.

Plenty will fit. Once you have assured yourself the wheels fit the 5-hole fixing of the rims, diameter of the bolt circle 112 mm, diameter of the central hole of rim 57 mm, then you move on to finding out if they meet the rim (expressed usually as 6.5J or 7J etc), diameter (here you want 17 or 18) and offset or ET. This will be specified as ET45 (say) - each increment / decrement is 1mm so anything up to about 4 or 5mm difference is not too crucial. But aim for as close as you can get. Your owners brochure might give you the exact spec of the recommended winter wheels. From the Octavia section of a recent Skoda wheel catalogue, in 17 or 18 you could choose Luxon, Comet, Braga, Perseus, Lyra, Vega Aero, Pulsar, Aries and Rotare. Searching your favourite auction site for Skoda, VW, Audi and Seat alloys will give you plenty more options. 18 inch wheels will demand less sidewall, more expensive tyres, more chance of damaging the alloys and a harsher ride. But your car may look smarter in the chiropractor's car park.

I take it you have changed the front left ABS sensor, yet it still shows up in this scan as faulty? You may have fitted a faulty, new sensor. Or the connection plug is not making proper electrical connection. The ABS sensor housing may have some rogue flakes of rust in the bottom. Or you may have a break in the wiring to that sensor. The faults after a bumpy road might indicate that. Odd that so many of the minor faults show a frequency of 10 events. This implies they are all linked somehow. The year old battery is unlikely to be the issue but a quick check of all major connections - and the alternator connections - might be worth doing. Looks like you could do with an updated VCDS interface to get the most information out of this. Clear all DTCs and report back.

New light switch. Unfortunately you cannot get a new nephew.