inspectorman

Bumper off, I'm afraid.

The greyness isn't the issue - that's the charcoal adsorbent they come with. It's the shed loads of organic crap in the folds that's the issue. I was checking because the airflow out of the vents wasn't great. Strange how a new filter fixed that.

Here is a picture of a pollen filter. 7,000 miles after it was changed by a main dealer. Looks like the original to me - at this point 26K miles and three years. It was absolutely rammed with silver birch seeds - yet the local trees hadn't cast seed in the 7K miles / 8 months since the service. I know what I think.......

The pics from Giannis20 are visible to me on a Win11 computer.

Only ever seen one listed for the combi (estate). This is for the Octavia 4

The pulling after the trip to Mr Tyres might be them; or it might be your existing problem getting worse. Servos aren't difficult to replace but best done by a proper mechanic. But based on the limited information posted I'd start with the basics. Sticky caliper? Worn pads? Brake fluid last changed? Not difficult to check. Plenty of used servos out there but obviously better if new. The Fabia estate is cramped in the back seat and not as nice as the Rapid IMHO.

Poking the clips may not help. 646 has two tabs moulded in - one each side. If pressing in both clip levers at the same time doesn't work I'd get two thin tools down the relevant sides of the relay between the clip and the relay body to ease the clips off those tabs. Simultaneously wiggling the relay upwards. It's been sat in that holder for 10 years so it'll be a bit stiff

Looks like the fuse panel has to be completely detached

No. If you're in the UK, deleting the DPF will fail your annual roadworthiness test (MoT). Your insurance company will probably refuse to cover you. And there is a risk the engine management system / ECU is unable to cope with the changed gas flow / temperatures / pressures it will be seeing. This means the little yellow symbol of doom may be a frequent visitor to your instrument panel.

I can see two reasons for this. 1; no headlamp washer means the reservoir drains by siphoning out the reservoir. Or 2; you have cracked the main reservoir. 1 is obviously better than 2. Plug the headlamp washer tube, refill the washer bottle and report back.

The desulphation phase on a Ctek MXS 5, which may get to a maximum of 15.7V, in my experience never lasts more than a minute or two. The documentation says 8 hour max but my guess is, this is the point the charger asks itself why is it bothering when the battery is clearly toast. You may also see 15.8V if you have selected the reconditioning option, but you're really in the last chance saloon at this point. The pulse technology used in the desulphation phase is very tightly controlled in respect of pulse width, frequency, rise time, and amplitude of current and voltage. It's nothing like hooking up a 15.7V supply on a thick cable and connecting it to Sizewell B.

Manual lists 30Nm for the "guide bolt". Seems beefy but it is M9. This is for the FN3 caliper - the pins look like this; Later / different calipers have this kind of pin setup; (1ZC caliper) Last time I did one of these it came with details of the tightening torque in the kit. Can't remember at the moment what that was.

Hard to argue with the price of the US Pro ones. I've never got on with the cable based ones. These Knipex pliers are terrific for dealing with those poxy clips (but you will need a little win on the Premium bonds) 85 51 250 AF Spring Hose Clamp Pliers with retainer

Not great news. As you know, it should just wind out - but from what you say, some gorilla has been there before you. The thread on the plug and probably the sump also are damaged. Maybe even glued / sealed somehow. Try teasing the plug out with a blade / edge behind the head of the sump plug. At least second hand (or even new) sumps for the 1.6 tdi aren't super expensive.

Happened once to your car, six weeks ago. Monitor again in a months time but have a quick check your hoses are all seated properly. Your turbo actuator or boost pressure sensor had a moment but it may just be a blip.

https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html As long as you know what engine is fitted you will get the correct answer. Quality filters, too.

This is what you can see in the VCDS log Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels:* None Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 A HW: 5WA 035 284 A Component: OCU3HMQB37W H12 0075 Serial number: 0000000111VITD3 Dataset Number: V03935339BQ 0001 Coding: 033810109069A8819005460061012607 ASAM Dataset: EV_OCU3HMQB37W 001039 ROD: EV_OCU3HMQB37W_001_SK38.rod VCID: 44D0B0704E139CFAEBF-8010 SFD The first scan here is early on; the second scan here is recent. You can see the serial number has changed which implies Skoda ate the cost of the unit change under warranty (hundreds of poonds...) Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels: None Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 A HW: 5WA 035 284 A Component: OCU3HMQB37W H12 0067 Serial number: 0000000007VIMU6 Coding: 033810109069A8819005460061012607 ASAM Dataset: EV_OCU3HMQB37W 001039 ROD: N/A VCID: 448110DECF3F02A466-8010

Correct. Nothing at all in the manual.

Thin coated gardening wire or strimmer cable. It does block up from time to time.

Production date 16 Sep 2020 Online manual instructions/conditions to enable OTA set : No OTA shown as available for my VIN in my country : No Hardware Version: H56 Device part number: 5E3035816J Current Infotainment version: 1941 OTA Updates currently being received for: Infotainment: No Maps: Yes Apps: Yes So.... H and J are non-OTA. ISTR that the device part number was not what it said (a part number) but was a combination of software and hardware. I could be wrong. My car has gone C -G - J and 1664 - 1668 - 1806 - 1896 - 1941. With a replacement steering wheel after the dealer tried say it wasn't that. Exactly as much fun as it sounds.

Buried deep in the Skoda pages is this little gem; etc etc which seems to imply some of the super early models could get it; but there was a period when it couldn't. Then, theoretically it should be able to get it (OTA update) from 11/2020 production date. I have a dreary sequence of device part number and software changes done by the dealer (but, of course, no helpful detail on what they actually did). I put 1941 on myself and it seems to be stable enough for me to not wish to get any higher. I do not have this little box ticked (sob).

This kind of thing might be easier to get in behind the plastic. The socket itself is square and should be straightforward to grip. And you can monitor progress by observing the socket hole. Snipe nose pliers - other brands are available.

On the edge of the lip of the glovebox. As you push the lid closed, you can feel where the lip contacts. Smaller ones on the rear lip, slightly bigger ones on left and right of the side lips.

More here. Some repetition. https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/1-2-tsi-engine-fuel-leak.36064/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#replies

You should be looking up fuel leak or "Major Fuel Leak - Due to bolts shearing on the fuel injector rail assembly" on this forum. Lots of info here; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495523-major-fuel-leak-due-to-bolts-shearing-on-the-fuel-injector-rail-assembly/#comment-5560649