inspectorman

The desulphation phase on a Ctek MXS 5, which may get to a maximum of 15.7V, in my experience never lasts more than a minute or two. The documentation says 8 hour max but my guess is, this is the point the charger asks itself why is it bothering when the battery is clearly toast. You may also see 15.8V if you have selected the reconditioning option, but you're really in the last chance saloon at this point. The pulse technology used in the desulphation phase is very tightly controlled in respect of pulse width, frequency, rise time, and amplitude of current and voltage. It's nothing like hooking up a 15.7V supply on a thick cable and connecting it to Sizewell B.

Manual lists 30Nm for the "guide bolt". Seems beefy but it is M9. This is for the FN3 caliper - the pins look like this; Later / different calipers have this kind of pin setup; (1ZC caliper) Last time I did one of these it came with details of the tightening torque in the kit. Can't remember at the moment what that was.

Hard to argue with the price of the US Pro ones. I've never got on with the cable based ones. These Knipex pliers are terrific for dealing with those poxy clips (but you will need a little win on the Premium bonds) 85 51 250 AF Spring Hose Clamp Pliers with retainer

Not great news. As you know, it should just wind out - but from what you say, some gorilla has been there before you. The thread on the plug and probably the sump also are damaged. Maybe even glued / sealed somehow. Try teasing the plug out with a blade / edge behind the head of the sump plug. At least second hand (or even new) sumps for the 1.6 tdi aren't super expensive.

Happened once to your car, six weeks ago. Monitor again in a months time but have a quick check your hoses are all seated properly. Your turbo actuator or boost pressure sensor had a moment but it may just be a blip.

https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html As long as you know what engine is fitted you will get the correct answer. Quality filters, too.

This is what you can see in the VCDS log Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels:* None Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 A HW: 5WA 035 284 A Component: OCU3HMQB37W H12 0075 Serial number: 0000000111VITD3 Dataset Number: V03935339BQ 0001 Coding: 033810109069A8819005460061012607 ASAM Dataset: EV_OCU3HMQB37W 001039 ROD: EV_OCU3HMQB37W_001_SK38.rod VCID: 44D0B0704E139CFAEBF-8010 SFD The first scan here is early on; the second scan here is recent. You can see the serial number has changed which implies Skoda ate the cost of the unit change under warranty (hundreds of poonds...) Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels: None Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 A HW: 5WA 035 284 A Component: OCU3HMQB37W H12 0067 Serial number: 0000000007VIMU6 Coding: 033810109069A8819005460061012607 ASAM Dataset: EV_OCU3HMQB37W 001039 ROD: N/A VCID: 448110DECF3F02A466-8010

Correct. Nothing at all in the manual.

Thin coated gardening wire or strimmer cable. It does block up from time to time.

Production date 16 Sep 2020 Online manual instructions/conditions to enable OTA set : No OTA shown as available for my VIN in my country : No Hardware Version: H56 Device part number: 5E3035816J Current Infotainment version: 1941 OTA Updates currently being received for: Infotainment: No Maps: Yes Apps: Yes So.... H and J are non-OTA. ISTR that the device part number was not what it said (a part number) but was a combination of software and hardware. I could be wrong. My car has gone C -G - J and 1664 - 1668 - 1806 - 1896 - 1941. With a replacement steering wheel after the dealer tried say it wasn't that. Exactly as much fun as it sounds.

Buried deep in the Skoda pages is this little gem; etc etc which seems to imply some of the super early models could get it; but there was a period when it couldn't. Then, theoretically it should be able to get it (OTA update) from 11/2020 production date. I have a dreary sequence of device part number and software changes done by the dealer (but, of course, no helpful detail on what they actually did). I put 1941 on myself and it seems to be stable enough for me to not wish to get any higher. I do not have this little box ticked (sob).

This kind of thing might be easier to get in behind the plastic. The socket itself is square and should be straightforward to grip. And you can monitor progress by observing the socket hole. Snipe nose pliers - other brands are available.

On the edge of the lip of the glovebox. As you push the lid closed, you can feel where the lip contacts. Smaller ones on the rear lip, slightly bigger ones on left and right of the side lips.

More here. Some repetition. https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/1-2-tsi-engine-fuel-leak.36064/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#replies

You should be looking up fuel leak or "Major Fuel Leak - Due to bolts shearing on the fuel injector rail assembly" on this forum. Lots of info here; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495523-major-fuel-leak-due-to-bolts-shearing-on-the-fuel-injector-rail-assembly/#comment-5560649

Yep - that's a lot more unpleasant than the odd marks lower down. The dampness on the spring is oil which should be inside the shock. Time to get the wallet out (and buy your mechanic a beer). 10 years though!

Doesn't look much like a leak. I'd clean it all off , inspect, then inspect again in a couple of weeks. Having said that, if they're the originals, they've done pretty well. You might be looking at replacing the pair at MoT time.

My glovebox rattled from new. Fixed with some supplementary rubber - use those dots or strips - to stop the hard plastic lid rattling against the hard plastic surround. But I can't say your sound sample sounded like my rattle (don't have a diesel).

This is an owners forum, not a service centre. What you are seeing is a classic case of subject drift - where contributors digress away from the original question. Easy enough to skim past if it's not relevant or interesting to you. If you search the forums for "cambelt" you'll be able to understand the sorry tale of how Skoda UK maintained for years that the cambelt on this engine had be be changed at 5 years / 50,000 miles; unlike every other country they sold this engine in. Then, two years ago, they magically changed their minds. Leaving those of us who'd shelled out for this expensive and unneccessary work, slightly miffed*. That's why you are seeing conflicting information on the interwebs. Your local dealer will be able to say what is appropriate for your region. * Understatement

Always worth asking the airhead on the front desk what criterion are they using to condemn the discs. Disc thickness? Runout? Delamination? Excessive scoring? They should recognise this as code for; " not going to work on me, sunshine"

Magic potion sees oil leak and seals it (maybe). Magic potion sees small passageway in oil system and seals that too. New car time.

Looks like you need to start with the two clips at the rear. Then keep working along to disengage the two big clips halfway along the side. Then withdraw the unit to the rear after disengaging those two long prongs at the front.

Looks deliberate. Here's one off ebay

That's almost 9 psi down at the rear and over 7 psi down at the front. Compliant it may be but you now need to monitor tyre wear on the shoulders - particularly on the inside which is harder to check.

Given the normal variability of tyre pressure when in use, plod would not be able to say with any confidence the tyre pressures were a factor unless they were grossly over or under inflated. And for that the vehicle investigator would also be looking at wear patterns of under / over inflation.