inspectorman

...so far...

Doesn't look as if they're genuine but the best answer will come from the manufacturer. https://www.otto-zimmermann.de/en/contact/request/

Fuel rail pressure sensor definitely worth doing. Since it's an intermittent fault it may have been behaving when the auto electrician was looking. One of these small Skoda engines does have issues with the fuel manifold ( ?) Coming loose but you've had enough mechanic time on this for it to have been spotted.

I think with the help of the diagrams we're pretty close now. Concentrate on the area in the red box and you'll be close. Can't tell from your photos how far down that connector is but it might be the one. This is the holder going onto the engine block. So the sensor (will go in bottom right of this) is just to the right of the main engine block (as you look at the front

Confirm your engine code, please

Breezy Pete might have a better answer than me - check this thread out. Is it helpful?

For the CFWA 1.2 diesel (75hp?) I think it looks like this (could be mostly black also) And bolts into this plastic subassembly Which looks big enough to be bolted onto one end or other of the crankcase - the opposite side to the gearbox would be easiest to get to. Maybe wrong but that's my guess.

Three (maybe four) recommendations here. Maybe the message is that any winter tyre from a decent manufacturer will be a big improvement from a summer tyre once the temperature starts to dip below 10. Personally, I've been over the Hartside pass in Cumbria (576m) in a blizzard with no drama ten minutes before they shut it.

Another vote for the Alpin 6. A spare set of alloys - and somewhere to store them - and swapping them twice a year was my answer. If they were my only wheels I'd use the Cross Climates. The swapping is not too onerous - Takes me just over an hour using a decent jack. Side benefit of being able to have a really good look at the brakes. Cleaning the ones which have come off takes me longer. I almost bought steel wheels but found a set of alloys at the right price. Don't forget 16s will fit, too.

Page 34, halfway down. More effort required. Tube is not a term of endearment in Scotland........

Cover (panel) needs to come out. The glass should sit in two little carriers which runs up the guide channels.

440 does refer to the cold cranking amps. Easiest way to resolve this is for you look in the Mk 1 Fabia section. Seems like 027 is the way ahead. CCA not anything you should get too fixated about. See Tayna.co.uk for a decent range of batteries and quick service.

Post a photo of the battery and tell us what the measurements are - Height, width, depth. The UK info seems to show 027 type batteries for your car, which seem a bit bigger than the one you have fitted. Is this yours? 063 is the type, not 062.

Dying / dead ABS sensors can give you these kinds of unhelpful error messages. VCDS scan may find that error code. Battery voltages are an easy check to give you a feel if the battery is the issue.

Any room for one of these? Through the slit or past the edge of the moulding?

WikiP thinks it's DGEA. UK registration documents also have the engine code on the engine number

Rotate the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. Now put a small amount of PlusGas on the edge of the cap and it will work its way down into the corrosion. After 15/20 minutes have another go. I personally wouldn't be happy about the valve after you'd got the cap off and would be saving up for a new valve at the tyre fitters.

Your handbook will tell you where the jacking points for each side are. Pop the axle stand just behind / inboard of the jacking points where you can see solid metal; do not rest the moulded sill of the body - where the official jacking point is - on an axle stand. A rubber puck with a slot in it will stop your shiny new hydraulic jack making a mess of your sill. You only need one wheel at a time in the air to do the discs and pads.

Looks like it has the same part number as the Mark 3 - albeit with an extra E. If Part 28 pops off easily you should see the offending ratchet bits But it should be them sorting this, not you.

You are not going mad. The ratchet sound (four positions) happens no matter how I grip the armrest. Your ratchet mechanism is faulty. PM me if you want a comparison video.

Go to 16 or even 15 inch wheels. Looks like you can have 205/55 16, 205/60 15 or 195/65 15.

Removing the power lead to the motor seems to be more foolproof than trying to code something almost nobody else in the world has done.

You might want to read through the thread titled "Infotainment System Restarting endlessly" - page 26 summarises what you can do yourself. In short, if you are not on software 1941 it may fix your problem. Bonne chance.

It is in the fan housing, positioned in the trunking from the fan to the central distribution assembly. See component 8 (this may be for a LHD drive Rapid). Undoubtedly a pain to get to. Start by taking the glovebox off and having a good look at the fan trunking. This chap is dealing with a LHD Fabia but it'll be similar. He finds it at 2:43. I'd start with a 10 quid cheapie - if it dies the job will be much quicker the second time.

Find someone friendly with a screwdriver and a bit of a clue to get the remains of the spoiler off and have a look for you. The worst thing that can happen is you hand the spoiler you've bought to the main dealer and say yes, I do need a bumper. Doesn't sound like he wasted much time assessing the issue (but quite liked the profit on a bumper replace job).