inspectorman

Must.. read... question..... properly....... aargh....

Ballast resistor for the fan is the favourite. Failure is usually max speed only but you might just be seeing an almost dead resistor. Then, if that doesn't fix the issue, consider changing the stalk itself.

You're heading in the right direction. I'd get into the back brakes and make sure the caliper pins were clean and properly greased. Only the very cheap stuff is problematic from new.

Does this help? Last post on Page 5.

Afraid so. The accountants overruled the engineers - who knew fine when they designed it the internals would corrode and then leak after 5/6 years.

The dust shield behind the brakes can corrode off its mounting bolts and then contact the disc. Lots of noise but not serious. More likely to be a stone if your car is less than 7/8 years old.

Yes. Apart from pressing in the sides of the box to disengage the tags, you need to disengage the damping arm - here called the compartment brake element. It's about the size of a pen and is only fitted to one side. For your left hand drive Octavia I suspect it is on the left side.

In the UK we don't have such a generous warranty. And here, as Rooted pointed out, long life servicing can mean up to about 19,000 miles / 24 months (whichever comes first). 30K km! That gives the idle owner plenty of time to run the levels lower than optimal.....

Your engine, your driving routine, your choice. For about £30 and ten minutes with a Pela oil pump I bother to change at the half way point. Was the change to long life servicing brought about by improvements in oil/materials technology or by a desire to reduce costs to the big leasing fleets? Those who repair these engines on a daily basis will have a view (Crasher?).

Saab rear discs at 109K. Audi never changed in 125K. Every Skoda I've had in the past decade; OEM rear discs dead at 24K, 28K, .. need to inspect my Octavia at 26K when the winters go on. At least you got the message this time. Pads too I hope..... and the last time too??

Oil consumption will vary according to the duty cycle, and the luck of the draw. So far I've only needed 250ml between services on the 1.5 tsi - I'm on variable but I change the oil at the mid point. It does get quite dark by the 8000 mile point. Modern oils are pretty thin compared to the old days. As for trusting the garage - a decade ago I was checking my wife's Skoda 2 weeks after the service. Bit high, I thought, let's suck the excess out. Was I being fussy? Not when I took a litre out. I told the service manager I'd be claiming for a new cat if it failed the MoT on emissions. But I think you can relax. Just find a schedule to check these things that works for you and try to stick to it. Maybe as part of your long trip preparation every 1.5 months. You'll be fine.

Thank you for telling us what the answer is... and one in the eye for those of us with suspicious minds.

Go back to 4 Dec 22 - BigAde's post - for the latest. Original post is long past its sell by.

https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2020/575/oj and our UK implementation is this from the MoT testers handbook

From gov.uk..... Do LED headlamps require washers / self levellers? Headlamp washing and levelling systems are a legal requirement and required if the LED headlamp or high intensity discharge lamp has a luminous intensity exceeding 2,000 lumens. If the luminous intensity isn’t marked on the lamp, a tester won’t be able to tell if these systems are needed. In this case, the headlamps will be treated as ordinary lamps and the vehicle can be passed as they don’t need washers or levelling devices fitted. The headlamp washers and levelling systems can only be rejected if they’re fitted and are inoperative or obviously defective. If they’re missing and you think they should be fitted, then pass and advise.

...so far...

Doesn't look as if they're genuine but the best answer will come from the manufacturer. https://www.otto-zimmermann.de/en/contact/request/

Fuel rail pressure sensor definitely worth doing. Since it's an intermittent fault it may have been behaving when the auto electrician was looking. One of these small Skoda engines does have issues with the fuel manifold ( ?) Coming loose but you've had enough mechanic time on this for it to have been spotted.

I think with the help of the diagrams we're pretty close now. Concentrate on the area in the red box and you'll be close. Can't tell from your photos how far down that connector is but it might be the one. This is the holder going onto the engine block. So the sensor (will go in bottom right of this) is just to the right of the main engine block (as you look at the front

Confirm your engine code, please

Breezy Pete might have a better answer than me - check this thread out. Is it helpful?

For the CFWA 1.2 diesel (75hp?) I think it looks like this (could be mostly black also) And bolts into this plastic subassembly Which looks big enough to be bolted onto one end or other of the crankcase - the opposite side to the gearbox would be easiest to get to. Maybe wrong but that's my guess.

Three (maybe four) recommendations here. Maybe the message is that any winter tyre from a decent manufacturer will be a big improvement from a summer tyre once the temperature starts to dip below 10. Personally, I've been over the Hartside pass in Cumbria (576m) in a blizzard with no drama ten minutes before they shut it.

Another vote for the Alpin 6. A spare set of alloys - and somewhere to store them - and swapping them twice a year was my answer. If they were my only wheels I'd use the Cross Climates. The swapping is not too onerous - Takes me just over an hour using a decent jack. Side benefit of being able to have a really good look at the brakes. Cleaning the ones which have come off takes me longer. I almost bought steel wheels but found a set of alloys at the right price. Don't forget 16s will fit, too.

Page 34, halfway down. More effort required. Tube is not a term of endearment in Scotland........