inspectorman

Saab rear discs at 109K. Audi never changed in 125K. Every Skoda I've had in the past decade; OEM rear discs dead at 24K, 28K, .. need to inspect my Octavia at 26K when the winters go on. At least you got the message this time. Pads too I hope..... and the last time too??

Oil consumption will vary according to the duty cycle, and the luck of the draw. So far I've only needed 250ml between services on the 1.5 tsi - I'm on variable but I change the oil at the mid point. It does get quite dark by the 8000 mile point. Modern oils are pretty thin compared to the old days. As for trusting the garage - a decade ago I was checking my wife's Skoda 2 weeks after the service. Bit high, I thought, let's suck the excess out. Was I being fussy? Not when I took a litre out. I told the service manager I'd be claiming for a new cat if it failed the MoT on emissions. But I think you can relax. Just find a schedule to check these things that works for you and try to stick to it. Maybe as part of your long trip preparation every 1.5 months. You'll be fine.

Thank you for telling us what the answer is... and one in the eye for those of us with suspicious minds.

Go back to 4 Dec 22 - BigAde's post - for the latest. Original post is long past its sell by.

https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2020/575/oj and our UK implementation is this from the MoT testers handbook

From gov.uk..... Do LED headlamps require washers / self levellers? Headlamp washing and levelling systems are a legal requirement and required if the LED headlamp or high intensity discharge lamp has a luminous intensity exceeding 2,000 lumens. If the luminous intensity isn’t marked on the lamp, a tester won’t be able to tell if these systems are needed. In this case, the headlamps will be treated as ordinary lamps and the vehicle can be passed as they don’t need washers or levelling devices fitted. The headlamp washers and levelling systems can only be rejected if they’re fitted and are inoperative or obviously defective. If they’re missing and you think they should be fitted, then pass and advise.

...so far...

Doesn't look as if they're genuine but the best answer will come from the manufacturer. https://www.otto-zimmermann.de/en/contact/request/

Fuel rail pressure sensor definitely worth doing. Since it's an intermittent fault it may have been behaving when the auto electrician was looking. One of these small Skoda engines does have issues with the fuel manifold ( ?) Coming loose but you've had enough mechanic time on this for it to have been spotted.

I think with the help of the diagrams we're pretty close now. Concentrate on the area in the red box and you'll be close. Can't tell from your photos how far down that connector is but it might be the one. This is the holder going onto the engine block. So the sensor (will go in bottom right of this) is just to the right of the main engine block (as you look at the front

Confirm your engine code, please

Breezy Pete might have a better answer than me - check this thread out. Is it helpful?

For the CFWA 1.2 diesel (75hp?) I think it looks like this (could be mostly black also) And bolts into this plastic subassembly Which looks big enough to be bolted onto one end or other of the crankcase - the opposite side to the gearbox would be easiest to get to. Maybe wrong but that's my guess.

Three (maybe four) recommendations here. Maybe the message is that any winter tyre from a decent manufacturer will be a big improvement from a summer tyre once the temperature starts to dip below 10. Personally, I've been over the Hartside pass in Cumbria (576m) in a blizzard with no drama ten minutes before they shut it.

Another vote for the Alpin 6. A spare set of alloys - and somewhere to store them - and swapping them twice a year was my answer. If they were my only wheels I'd use the Cross Climates. The swapping is not too onerous - Takes me just over an hour using a decent jack. Side benefit of being able to have a really good look at the brakes. Cleaning the ones which have come off takes me longer. I almost bought steel wheels but found a set of alloys at the right price. Don't forget 16s will fit, too.

Page 34, halfway down. More effort required. Tube is not a term of endearment in Scotland........

Cover (panel) needs to come out. The glass should sit in two little carriers which runs up the guide channels.

440 does refer to the cold cranking amps. Easiest way to resolve this is for you look in the Mk 1 Fabia section. Seems like 027 is the way ahead. CCA not anything you should get too fixated about. See Tayna.co.uk for a decent range of batteries and quick service.

Post a photo of the battery and tell us what the measurements are - Height, width, depth. The UK info seems to show 027 type batteries for your car, which seem a bit bigger than the one you have fitted. Is this yours? 063 is the type, not 062.

Dying / dead ABS sensors can give you these kinds of unhelpful error messages. VCDS scan may find that error code. Battery voltages are an easy check to give you a feel if the battery is the issue.

Any room for one of these? Through the slit or past the edge of the moulding?

WikiP thinks it's DGEA. UK registration documents also have the engine code on the engine number

Rotate the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. Now put a small amount of PlusGas on the edge of the cap and it will work its way down into the corrosion. After 15/20 minutes have another go. I personally wouldn't be happy about the valve after you'd got the cap off and would be saving up for a new valve at the tyre fitters.

Your handbook will tell you where the jacking points for each side are. Pop the axle stand just behind / inboard of the jacking points where you can see solid metal; do not rest the moulded sill of the body - where the official jacking point is - on an axle stand. A rubber puck with a slot in it will stop your shiny new hydraulic jack making a mess of your sill. You only need one wheel at a time in the air to do the discs and pads.

Looks like it has the same part number as the Mark 3 - albeit with an extra E. If Part 28 pops off easily you should see the offending ratchet bits But it should be them sorting this, not you.