inspectorman

The comparison with your diesel Mk3 is only valid if the tyres are exactly the same. Your extra weight of the E-Tec bits makes only a marginal difference compared to a 2020 non-ETec 1.5 SEL. here's the flap info; I can't say I've noticed bounciness at these pressures but I'm not Lewis Hamilton. Try dropping them - I wouldn't go 5psi down, maybe 2 or three to start. The other factor here would be the accuracy of your tyre pressure measuring gauge.. how close to true is it? I'm lucky enough to have a Bailey & Mackey gauge which was a special offer in Motorcycle News decades ago - being a proper gauge manufacturer they will check calibration for you if you ask nicely. Couple on your favourite auction site at the moment.

I have had a number of Skodas - most of them suffered from terrible rear disc quality from new. One set even chose to delaminate substantial flakes as I drove down the road and heard them hitting the rear wheel liner. Almost any proper brand will do. Brembo, Mintex, Pagid, TRW - each have their fans. Do not under any circumstances get them from a Skoda dealer. Last set I did cost me £42 and less than an hour of my time.

Tell them to do the navigation maps update too. Those maps are over six years old. It was a long road - mine was delivered in Oct 2020 - but we are now sorted. It must have cost Skoda a fortune in warranty work (and VW, Seat, Audi). Once the local dealer stopped BS'ing me, we got on OK. This site was a godsend.

Tyres the same? Pressures set OK? If so then there may be a setting down in 44 - Steering Assist in VCDS to alter the amount of assistance. ISTR doing this 7/8 years ago because of complaints the steering was too light. I was unconvinced the feel had changed but herself was happy. YMMV.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Your (second) set of voltage readings seem fine. Bear in mind that the static volt reading just after the engine has been running will display a (slightly) higher value than it truly is. Measuring the voltage from the positive pole to the earth point may identify a different voltage, meaning your earth strap or contact has become suboptimal. Your ECU is reporting a high drain, which in turn will not allow stopstart to operate. The tedious part of the analysis is now identifying which part of the car is responsible - is the heated windscreen really off when you switch it off, for example? A scan may or may not help here. Good luck

It might be as simple as a failing ABS sensor. Such a failure will give you an alarming multitude of faults - which are all related to the control systems not having the right wheel info from the sensor. A scan will quickly identify if you are lucky to have this (easily sorted) fault. But if it's already been to the dealer he should have spotted this. Battery health is worth checking yourself - it may well start but a dying battery gives all sorts of strangeness to modern cars. Sitting around waiting for repairs may have done it no good. Knowing what the Cat N damage was might point you to areas of concern - front or back shunt, say? Good luck. Your dealer doesn't sound that helpful.

CTEK have been my choice for the past 20 years. One died after six years or so but my batteries have been kept in good shape (or maybe I got lucky). Anything approaching 12V on a quick and dirty measure gets the top-up. Can't comment on the NOCO one.

When you take the old one out, observe the dirt and insects on the upper surface. This confirms the air comes from outside - up in the plenum chamber area - and passes down to the fan motor underneath. So airflow arrow points down - as one of the prior photos shows.

This is my wife's spare with the tool insert in; tyre size happens to be 185/60 R15. Wheel might be a 6Jx15 ET38 but you'd have to check.

General upper limit for charging AGM batteries is stated at anywhere from 14.8 to 15.0V. But this is often quoted for a standard - maybe 20 or 25C. Below that the absorption voltage rises for each degree C drop. That gives us some pretty high theoretical voltages for charging a cold AGM battery - but it's the battery temperature we are considering here, not the ambient temperature. Self-heating during charging will bring the battery temperature up. A very smart charging system would have some form of temperature measurement on the battery to take account of this. A step too far for car use. So your "high" voltage may be normal and you are sensitized by having to fork out recently for a new battery. Are you reading the car voltage values from the ECU or are you using one of those cigarette lighter plugins? Or something else?

Reasonable to believe they have fitted the wrong pads - looks like the ears of the pads aren't right for the caliper. Try any of the major brake pad catalogues to get to the correct part number and fitment for your engine and year. Sometimes there will be multiple choices - it helps at this point if you can find the correct three letter code (for example 1LK or 1LM or 1LU, maybe) in your vehicle documentation. Used to be on a sticker in the boot but later came as a sticker in the vehicle handbook. ERWIN can tell you the exact build codes for your car for a small fee if you have no record anywhere of the codes for the brake sizes. I can't find any fitment for Skoda for GA8135FG after a brief search. May be different for your country.

Upgrading software of the infotainment unit is unlikely to help. Others have fixed this by replacing the SOS module or upgrading the SOS module firmware. Your dealer will have had plenty of experience fixing this fault......

Left is W5W. Right is a festoon bulb - and all you need is a ruler to measure the length.

Look for pictures of those part numbers. It looks as if the part is only placed in position from above by gravity, and secured in location by trim clips into other parts of the boot. Work out where those clips are then use a body trim removal tool to release the clip. You may have to remove the lining of the boot, below the shelf support, to gain access to those clips. Take your time and don't force anything. If it won't move, you've missed a clip or there might be a securing screw.

Those supporting pegs appear to be part of the moulding of the parcel shelf support and therefore not individually replaceable. You will need to replace each side. Try looking for 5E6867762 and 5e6867761, maybe. If you dismantle the car first, the part numbers are often visible on the hidden side. İyi şanslar!

I'd forgotten how terrible some of them were. I've even changed carb for a Weber because the fitted Pierburg was so bad. Never went as far as my perfectionist friend who fitted a microswitch and warning light to remind his wife the new (manual ) choke he'd fitted was engaged, though.

Kangarooing not an issue on 2020 Octavias. Seems to have been restricted to earlier cars; and don't forget the anti-stall feature (where the car will increase engine revs slightly if it thinks you're going to stall it) may be confused with kangarooing by some. For those of us who grew up juggling manual chokes with throttle position on cold engines ( and sometimes advance/retard controls as well ) modern systems are a huge improvement. An overnight test drive will answer your question since you will then know without doubt you're starting a cold engine. Try asking the sales person if he / she can demonstrate what version of infotainment software is loaded. A small test as to whether he/she has any clue what they're selling. Buried somewhere down the Car / system setting from memory but may be different in different infotainment setups. Don't forget it is entirely possible to have an up to date infotainment software, but many of the other modules have their own software load which may or may not be properly up to date. These parameters are not easy to access. But a decent service history might give you more confidence everything has been addressed.

Your multimeter - and whatever the ECU is using to measure volts - are not calibrated devices. In addition, you have no idea at what point the ECU is looking to give out a voltage reading. It may even be a compound of four or five different sensors. The main thing is you have a new battery and the charging system appears to be functioning. Cross fingers for the hub magnet / sensor change fixing your warning lights.

You seem to be unlucky - I have never in the past 30 years of Skoda ownership been persuaded to buy the unicorn tears VAG sell for screenwash. But I have mostly stuck with Sonax rather than chopping and changing supplier. Your response depends on how much you value your time. I would be rinsing out the washer bottle with repeated fills of warm water to see if I could improve the flow. Emptying the reservoir should be easy enough with a suitable length of hose to siphon the contents out. Applying back pressure from the hose to the nozzles might also help dislodge anything on the filter. But I am a cheapskate.

Should be fine. Some claim up to 15mm difference is unimportant but I disagree. And it's the easier option - outwards - so no fouling issues. Great price.

H7 or Xenons? Xenons here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_x__hnOffI

"If you are looking at an early Mk4 I don't think it's an unreasonable request to ask a dealer to ensure the firmware versions of problematic models are at a minimum version as part of the deal. If they refuse, then walk away. If they oblige then it's an easy task for them to provide a written document to prove the modules are at the versions they need to be. If it makes the difference between a sale and a 'no sale' I'd think most dealers would find a way to get it done. It's a shame it does effectively come down to this, as people are starting to avoid the earlier cars. I know if I were looking to buy anothe early / first edition Mk4 I'd be insisting the firmware be updated. As others have commented the vehicle mechanically is fine. Good engines, comfortable, economical. All of my issues have been software related - and most other people in this forum too." Absolutely this. I'd even get the VIN and run it through ERWIN as well to see if any outstanding actions are required. It's taken four years and six visits to kill all of the software irritations so far. It would have been three but I couldn't face schlepping up to the dealer at the three year point for the relentless upselling and did the oil and filters myself. Had they been on top of their TPIs I would have been contacted before that.. ""please inform customers immediately/urgently (Bolded and underlined) the customers with the vehicles affected". Fat chance. But - it is a big, comfortable, economical drive with a high spec interior (SEL trim) and it does do what I wanted it to do. So have a chat with the dealer to see if he has any clue about what the problems were, how the dealership coped, and what state the possible purchase is in with regard to those updates. You should be able to work out pretty quickly if you're dealing with a 24 carat bullsh*tter or a genuine guy.

Window switch? Cheap and easy to replace.