MikeTheThinker

That looks like an 8 valve motor which would be (I believe) a BMM. From wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Octavia): 2.0 TDI DPF 1968 cc 8v SOHC PD (Pumpe Düse - Unit Injector) 140 PS (103 kW; 138 bhp) at 4,000 320 N⋅m (236 lbf⋅ft) at 1,750 BMM 2007– present

OK, thanks for the heads-up. Good luck with the sale. BTW you might do better if you were willing to ship; have a look at a parcel agent (I use parcel2go.com but there are others).

Do you know if these would fit a 2014 mk2?

Just an FYI these cars of ours have an annoying habit of turning on random warning lights if the battery has been disconnected or the voltage has gone low. If that's the cause the lights clear up after a short run - usually less than a mile. The reason behind this behaviour is the various computerised controllers in the cars which don't tolerate insufficient voltage to operate properly and tend to throw up incorrect error conditions when they're deprived of their life-essence

Looking from behind the car with the tailgate open the pull handle fixes via a single torx screw through a hole in the lower tailgate panel (i.e. the upper one as you're looking at it) midway to the right. Technically I believe one is supposed to be able to remove and replace the pull handle rubber without removing said panel but it's never worked for me, so just prise off the panel (use plastic levers or you may mark it) to get to the fitting. To fit the new one, push the screw boss end through the panel before replacing the panel on the tailgate and then using your trusty torx screwdriver jiggle the fixing screw into place. It sounds worse than it is, honestly I'll take a piccy of the fitted location for you later.

Those brown marks look like rust, and if so the reflectors in the headlamps may have deteriorated as well. If that's the case the only answer would be replacement headlamps. There are plenty of units available via breakers - eBay is a good starting point - and when I last checked you could pick up a pair of units for under 100 squid. Remember you will need facelift lamps, not pre-facelift.

There was mention some while back (I think it was @J.R.) when it was pointed out that the Haldex system is only triggered when the OFFside front wheel loses traction, as opposed to a full 4WD system where all wheels are active all the time the system is engaged. Correction: OFFside front wheel (in the UK), not nearside.

I found this link via Fleet News. I assume it's part PR but the meat does seem genuine and interesting. Note; it's detailed! PDF link HERE.

I had a rear wheel bearing done at Tyres & Motorway here in the Northwest a couple of years back - cost £165. At the time Halfords were asking £225.

Same part number: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115697375766 https://partversal.co.uk/car-parts/product/5787572 Thread about same problem in VW forum: https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/airbag-fault.19639/

Given that these cars (and all other modern vehicles) are comples and substantially computer controlled the most effective route to a diagnosis is via a scan, something your garage will most likely do first. You could buy a cheap scanner (anything from 15-50 squid) but - realistically - unless you have some knowledge of what you would be looking at such a choice would be more likely to confuse and alarm than to help.

Try asking THESE people who offer to match against your VIN. Alternatively, take a look HERE or HERE for aftermarket replacements.

I'd try a few breakers, or fleabay.

Is it this one? https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1z0857488bfcn-double-seat-belt-lock-skoda-36182.html

A quick and free check you can perform is to verify earth continuity between the tailgate and the car body, and if that's OK extend the check to the earth side of the various elements which are not working.

From the diagram item 1 is only the pillar trim and the clip (#8). You would have to order the other parts individually if that's what you need. Before ordering you need to confirm the model year as I don't know Yeti timelines very well. You also need to know the colour code for your trim - PR codes 4x0 to 4x4 I believe. skoda-parts.com are usually pretty good at stock and pricing. Finally, @J.R. may be able to confirm or revise my notes as he's done a lot of wotk on his Yeti.

What year is your Yeti? To be going on with HERE is the parts catalogue page for a 2015 Yeti and I believe you're looking at item 1.

Greetings all, Having done much hunting and found limited options we've ordered these all-season tyres via Blackcircles for my wife's Monte. They're a lot cheaper than the premium brands (less than 2/3rds) and from what I can see only differ in rolling resistance (slightly below average). Any thoughts out there on this choice, please? Fitting is booked for Friday so we can change tyres if this is a bad choice.

Just FYI the Octavia wings are also glued on with a polycarbonate (?) foam adhesive which can be encouraged to loosen by application with a hot air gun. I didn't see any mention on the Fabia wing diagram of the recommended goo to reattach so I believe the Fabia is only bolt-on and not stick-on also.

The parts catalogue diagram and list for a mk2 Fabia front wing are HERE. That should help you get started.

We have one too, done a bit more (about 170k). Great car.

I think that calls for a resounding "DUH!" on my part and apologies to the OP for the misdirect. As it's a weasel I can't think of anything that would make that sort of noise but I'm sure someone else will be able to.

You don't say what motor you have and whether it's petrol or diesel, but my first thought would be timing chain tensioner slipper pad worn through with chain rubbing on the metal of the tensioner.

@J.R.may be able to offer advice as I know he has had to deal with rectifying rear-end damage to a Yeti.

The process by which we identified a ratling spare wheel as a problem in our daughter's car some while ago was thus: 1) find a quiet stretch of road / car park etc. where the rattle can be reproduced reliably. 2) establish a known and repeatable set of conditions under which the rattle occurs. 3) have a volunteer listen in various positions in the car - ear to the ground, as it were - to localise the source of the rattle. 4) investigate the identified source. If you can find somewhere off-highway very much better and in that case can have your "volunteer" ride in the boot as well as lying on the back seats and in the footwells as necessary. Our solution was a Costco car park with drainage runs that caused our culprit to rattle when driven over.