MikeTheThinker

There are plenty of good used headlamp units on fleabay, prices from around 30 squid upwards. Is it worth trying to track and fix your mystery leak?

The parts catalogue page for the rear suspension for a 2014 Fabia mk2 built in China is HERE and should go straight to the rear shock mount details. Note that without full details of your car it is not possible to guarantee that this is the correct part but as it is the only option listed it is probably correct.

A piccy of your wheels would help with identifying them ...

Four registered keepers in 12 months is high but as @Rooted points out there may be situations where this is explainable. Were it me I'd be wanting to see the detail of the service history - ideally including service bills - and would try to follow up via the servicing dealer to learn more. Might also be worth paying the fee (10 squid) for a full car report as you can see more of the keepership history. Of interest in the free version of the report is the note that the current keeper has had the vehicle for 1yr 3months, so where do the other three come into it? https://www.caranalytics.co.uk/select-product/RJ22FHW

Can you check the continuity from the bulb holder to earth? I'm not certain but think they may share a common earth connection.

I'm finding that as I age my memory isn't as reliable as it used to be so I want to build a spread sheet for service history for our cars - Octy 2 and Fabia 2. I can transcribe from the images you've posted but was hoping to make short cuts by downloading and editing content.

Do you have a link to the original content, please?

According to the parts catalogue HERE the wings are all the same as long as you stay within the revision level - i.e. Octy mk1 pre-facelift. Removal is straightforward but do check the alignment of the bracketry the wing mounts to. It is quite easily bent from a bump.

As @MicMacsaid, pull harder. A pair of pliers or locking grips helps and once the headlamp is out, lots of WD40 [tm] or similar and frequent pulling and pushing the release lever until it slides freely, then re-squirt with an appropriately gloopy and sticky lube (bicycle chain lube works a treat) and repeat the working of the lever several more times.

There's now't wrong with pragmatism as long as the result works, is safe and appropriate.

Hopefully you have some way of talking through the non-forum stuff but if not, do please look for a way to achieve this. Trauma left buried within does come back to bite us in the ar$e; been there, done that. Got some good T-shirts for sale, too

Thank you for the trust you are showing us on this forum by opening up on a difficult topic. I'm very pleased it's helping you as you learn to deal with what's happened and how it will affect your life going forward.

Sorry to hear about the smash and glad you've managed to come through it relatively OK.

I believe THIS is the parts catalog page for your car with auxiliary heater.

The Brisky thread below may be of help ...

Just in case, is it possible that someone has retrofitted a heater - or maybe started the process and not completed it?

I can't directly answer your question but can maybe help you along the way. In the car's service book or in the wheel well there should be a 'data sticker' which gives details about the vehicle and the build options. I've included a picture of such from one of our older cars (now deceased) to show you what you're looking for. Once you have the details from the sticker you can look up what each 'PR Code' means on THIS website. From there you should be able to establish whether the car actually had a heater installed and if so start your diagnostics from there.

If it behaves like an Octavia (as I suspect it will) just run it up the road for a few miles and all the non-relevant lights should clear. If any persist then investigate.

Take a look at the list on the link and you should be able to tell. You'll need to know your engine code BTW. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FABI/706/9/903/903000

Link to Octavia mk1 workshop manual electrical section (pdf) on my Google Drive share.

I have the workshop manual for the mk1 electrical system - a 10MB pdf. I can PM it to you if that would help?

I can't comment on how an EV might have behaved in the described circumstances but I did note a brief mention on the Beeb coverage that the driver had some mobility issues (not the exact words) but no mention of what and whether these had any impact on the problems of control. So, was this a case of a rogue EV having a brain fart or a complication arising out of the mobility issues/maybe mobility adaptations?

Does it squeal at engine speed or road speed? Also, does it squeal if coasting with the engine off?

I have ordered several key cases from Ali (as @MicMacsuggests) for our assortment of Octys and have had no problems. If you're just replacing the button half of the fob the two parts of the shell just click together. There are several YouTubes on this. If you're replacing the key end of the shell you will need to know the secret of separating the case halves - it's a very small Phillips/Pozidrive screw hidden behind the Skoda sticker on the back of the fob case. Remove the sticker, undo the screw and carefully separate the halves; there's a spring holding the key blade in place which likes to jump out and get lost (DAMHIK). Finally, when you order the replacement shell/s add in a set of key fob stickers to replace the one you have scraped off to get at the screw mentioned above. There are quite a few YouTubes covering all of this if you go hunting. Remember you need a shell that matches your one exactly (I suspect yours is a 3-button shell) so look at the pictures for confirmation. Oh, by the way, I suggest you order one more shell than you need - just in case. They're dirt cheap and they're only plastic ...