MikeTheThinker

According to the parts catalogue HERE the wings are all the same as long as you stay within the revision level - i.e. Octy mk1 pre-facelift. Removal is straightforward but do check the alignment of the bracketry the wing mounts to. It is quite easily bent from a bump.

As @MicMacsaid, pull harder. A pair of pliers or locking grips helps and once the headlamp is out, lots of WD40 [tm] or similar and frequent pulling and pushing the release lever until it slides freely, then re-squirt with an appropriately gloopy and sticky lube (bicycle chain lube works a treat) and repeat the working of the lever several more times.

There's now't wrong with pragmatism as long as the result works, is safe and appropriate.

Hopefully you have some way of talking through the non-forum stuff but if not, do please look for a way to achieve this. Trauma left buried within does come back to bite us in the ar$e; been there, done that. Got some good T-shirts for sale, too

Thank you for the trust you are showing us on this forum by opening up on a difficult topic. I'm very pleased it's helping you as you learn to deal with what's happened and how it will affect your life going forward.

Sorry to hear about the smash and glad you've managed to come through it relatively OK.

I believe THIS is the parts catalog page for your car with auxiliary heater.

The Brisky thread below may be of help ...

Just in case, is it possible that someone has retrofitted a heater - or maybe started the process and not completed it?

I can't directly answer your question but can maybe help you along the way. In the car's service book or in the wheel well there should be a 'data sticker' which gives details about the vehicle and the build options. I've included a picture of such from one of our older cars (now deceased) to show you what you're looking for. Once you have the details from the sticker you can look up what each 'PR Code' means on THIS website. From there you should be able to establish whether the car actually had a heater installed and if so start your diagnostics from there.

If it behaves like an Octavia (as I suspect it will) just run it up the road for a few miles and all the non-relevant lights should clear. If any persist then investigate.

Take a look at the list on the link and you should be able to tell. You'll need to know your engine code BTW. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FABI/706/9/903/903000

Link to Octavia mk1 workshop manual electrical section (pdf) on my Google Drive share.

I have the workshop manual for the mk1 electrical system - a 10MB pdf. I can PM it to you if that would help?

I can't comment on how an EV might have behaved in the described circumstances but I did note a brief mention on the Beeb coverage that the driver had some mobility issues (not the exact words) but no mention of what and whether these had any impact on the problems of control. So, was this a case of a rogue EV having a brain fart or a complication arising out of the mobility issues/maybe mobility adaptations?

Does it squeal at engine speed or road speed? Also, does it squeal if coasting with the engine off?

I have ordered several key cases from Ali (as @MicMacsuggests) for our assortment of Octys and have had no problems. If you're just replacing the button half of the fob the two parts of the shell just click together. There are several YouTubes on this. If you're replacing the key end of the shell you will need to know the secret of separating the case halves - it's a very small Phillips/Pozidrive screw hidden behind the Skoda sticker on the back of the fob case. Remove the sticker, undo the screw and carefully separate the halves; there's a spring holding the key blade in place which likes to jump out and get lost (DAMHIK). Finally, when you order the replacement shell/s add in a set of key fob stickers to replace the one you have scraped off to get at the screw mentioned above. There are quite a few YouTubes covering all of this if you go hunting. Remember you need a shell that matches your one exactly (I suspect yours is a 3-button shell) so look at the pictures for confirmation. Oh, by the way, I suggest you order one more shell than you need - just in case. They're dirt cheap and they're only plastic ...

1J2823533C for rhs or 1J2823533C B41 in Satin Black. Google[tm] brings up a number of choices. Parts car page HERE FYI.

It will give you a list of the option code (aka PR codes) which will tell you which options went into the vehicle build. Unfortunately, having checked the options codes for the four Octy 2s we have or have had they don't list the front brakes 😞 Plan B; go to LLL Parts catalogue page 2008 O2 front brakes and use the email there to send your VIN and ask them which disks you need. That should get you a part number.

Can you find a copy of the options sticker for your car? It would be in the service book or attached to the shoulder of the spare wheel well behind the carpet.

'Fraid not. I used to play out with youngsters from the extended McCartney family when they stayed with Paul's dad just down the road from where I grew up. We'd meet the kids en route to school but at the tender age of about 8 or 9 didn't pay too much attention to their backgrounds.

The Welsh speed watchers - GoSafe - have pronounced on their 20mph speeding approach: "GoSafe have stated the speed they will start prosecuting drivers for on 20mph roads. Wales has become the first UK nation to introduce a default 20mph limit that now applies on most roads that were previously 30mph, particularly those in residential and other busy built up areas. Welsh Government and police have always said they will take a gentle approach to enforcement with the initial phase being used to engage with drivers seen going over 20mph - apart from those well above the speed limit. Now GoSafe have published their guidelines on the new limit. The normal rule for enforcement is to start issuing fines and points at 10% above limit plus 2mph. But there will be more leeway with the 20mph limit. GoSafe say the threshold will be 10% plus 4mph. This will mean drivers will start getting fines and points at 26mph and above." https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/gosafe-announce-speed-prosecute-drivers-27742796

Solved, thanks. I've updated my original post with the details.

OK, mystery solved and the marine ornithological population can breathe easy again. I did some extended on-site investigation (sat in the car and went through a number of cycles of start, no revs, turn off, wait about 5 minutes, do it again) and noted the squeal was only on 'cold' start and not on a warm start. Revs made no difference. Managed to locate the noise to the top area of the nearside dash and a bit more poking around identified a fan in the window side air blower as the culprit. So, nowt to do with the turbo (thankfully) - although in my defence m'lud the noise was from about the same direction. So, many thanks for the prompt responses; goes to prove just how darned good this forum is. Please note no seabirds were harmed in this exercise. Original post: Either I have a Skua hiding under my bonnet or there's a bearing-type squeal briefly on start up. Once the revs come up the squeal stops. I was wondering if it's a turbo bearing not getting oil on start up but that's a guess. I've checked the sump oil - OK - and no unexpected leaks around the motor. Car is a 2007 Octy 2 2.0tdi with a BMM motor. I've tried forum searches but nothing stands out. Anyone have any more info in this, please?