MikeTheThinker

I have a set of mk2 VRS seats surplus to requirements. Nice washable leather

There's a serious point to consider, here, in that a dog relies on being able to grip onto the surface under them in order to avoid being thrown around by the car's movements. We've found that the usual protective seat covers available aftermarket are great at keep muck and wet off the seats but provide little or no grip for el pooch. Our answer was to always add a towel and/or blanket over the liner which improves things - although it's not a perfect solution as the towel/blanket can slide on the waterproof liner ... I'm looking into a way of securing the cloth cover somehow - probably by fitting some press studs to the liner. Not today's project but I will report back when some progress has been made.

You might want to investigate washable seat covers, too!

Take a look at this link. Alarm is on the right hand inner wing behind the wheel arch liner.

We did a lot of research on this very topic for our two Springers and came up with the system we still use now for our Border Collie. We chose it for control of the dog when travelling whilst allowing enough movement that they won't fret, together with good support for the dog and with particular attention to how the whole setup would both restrain and support the dog in the case of a rapid decelleration in the event of a "Code Brown" moment. I'm not being deliberately mysterious but it's too dark for decent piccies and I can't remember the brands, so I'll take a proper look tomorrow and post FYI.

Take a look on parcel2go.com. They can quote from as low as around 12 squid for parcels to UK up to 25kg and 1m in length. Note that Highlands & Islands and Northern Ireland cost a bit more. Caveat: no beneficial interest, many times previous and satisfied customer.

My wife's night sight is a bit challenged these days and I fitted a pair of Osram Nightbreakers a little while back which she says have improved the headlamp illumination significantly.

Yes, your BXE is a 1.9 PD turbo diesel. Great motor but fussy on oil so use the right grade and change when it's due.

See below, and I'd suggest a read of the whole thread as well ...

I think this post will help:

56.2mm, checked several times from different directions, so I assume that means a centre bore for the wheels of 56.6mm? The hubs are outboard of the trailer body so (as I understand it) no offset is needed. Trailer is currently a 1000kg body/chassis and weighs 245kg but was imported with an unbraked axle and drawbar so it's road limited to 750kg load. The Alko axle and draw bar I obtained are rated at 1300kg in total (is that Gross Vehicle Mass in new speak?) so when grafted together I will have a trailer weighing around 250kg empty (I will have to add in the extra weight for the heavier draw bar, axle and wheels) and capable of carrying a maximum load of 1,000kg (see earlier comment about weight differences). From what you said (and with which I agree) I assume I'm going to be looking for "96" rated tyres? Putting both sets of responses together I believe I'm looking for 4*100 wheels with 56.6 centres, no offset and to take a tyre rated at 96. Does that sound about right? As regards wheel sizes 14" feels about the right size - although I could run to 15" without surgery if necessary. Any suggestions on donor vehicles with those wheel specs? Thanks for the replies so far; much appreciated.

Do you have any details of this, please?

I have a trailer rated at 1 ton load but unbraked - so limited to 750kg, I've obtained a replacement Alko axle and draw bar rated at 1300kg which will nett out at 1 ton load (trailer is 245kg), Hubs are 100mm PCD 4 stud. Question is what size wheels and tyres should be looking for to support the gross weight of 1300kg? I can fit 13 or 14" wheels withouit alteration and 15" if I moved the mudguards.

Intriguing forum name; how's this for a candidate for your avatar?

I ordered two so it worked out cheaper than anywhere else online.

(Later): I've just ordered the Simoniz one and the cheapest on ebay was this seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303668599207

Autoexpress did a review and liked these four in particular: Simoniz New Look Bumper Shine Price: £4.99 Size: 500ml Contact: 0161 491 7391, simoniz.co.uk Rating: ★★★★★ Best buy: Spray this easy-to-use-Back to Black aerosol direct on trim or a cloth so it goes only where you want it, then wipe. It has a pleasant citrus smell. Finish is muted, plus it’s long lasting. Triplewax Bumper Shine Price: £5 Size: 500ml Contact: 0161 764 5981, tetrosyl.com Rating: ★★★★ Recommended: This makes your plastic really stand out and shine. You just spray on and leave for a glossier finish than our champ’s. And while this was eventually lost, it kept beading to the end. CarPlan Original Black Price: £4.99 Size: 500ml Contact: 0161 764 5981, tetrosyl.com Rating: ★★★★ Not a lot between this and its Triplewax cousin. It’s another spray and leave product, and left a high gloss finish. Price is identical and both are top buys, but this was beading slower at the end. Black Diamond Trim Gel Price: £4.99 Size: 500ml Contact: 01438 749501, blackdiamondproducts.co.uk Rating: ★★★★ A week under snow did last year’s winner no favours. It’s still a great protectant, lasting right to the end, and you can apply the gel accurately and with minimal waste – although this can take longer than the sprays. Verdict Simoniz Back to Black gave its name to this category, and the New Look version takes the win here by a narrow margin. In the runner-up spot is Triplewax Bumper Shine. It was still working at the end of our test, but not quite as quickly as the Simoniz. Original Black from CarPlan completes the podium, with last year’s star turn, Black Diamond Trim Gel, in fourth. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41011/bumper-shines-tested

This is what Mr Skoda has to say about the task:

We're experiencing the dreaded random alarm triggerings on my wife's car, Can't detect a pattern to the triggerings except that it hasn't happened whilst in motion - yet. Normal reset methods work on occasions but not on others, and finally shutting the thing up usually occurs after several ignition on/off and engine on/run/off cycles. I've removed the internal sensor as a triogger using the isolation button down on the B pillar - no discernable difference. Car battery is healthy and around 3 years old. I'm assuming at this point that the problem will be the alarm battery, either failing or rotting and coroding the circuit board. I've had a quick look on aliexpress and the going rate for a new alarm seems to be arouns 50 squid. I'll run a VCDS scan later when I can get back to my diagnostic kit but in the meantime am wondering of there's any way to disable the alarm unit for now? I've tried searching Ross Tech's site for a way but nothing so far.

How about pulling the plastics and using the old newspaper trick to get a better idea of where the water is coming in? Another possibility is to selectively duct tape off sections of the closed boot joint and spray it with a hose to localise the ingress point or points.

I don't know where the drains are on a hatch (mine's an estate) but from what you described it could be the water is entering the door structure all the time but is able to drain out again when the car is parked "nose up" but not "nose down".

In case anyone is into classic Triumphs I've posted a free listing for Tiger Cub head gaskets;

There's a nice blue '07 VRS up for breaking in Peterborough: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373647328909

Water in the fuel pooling at the bottom of the filter? Or maybe one of the vacuum hoses from the turbo is leaking/has dropped off?

You're here, you asked for help, so we do what we can; after all, that's how a lot of us learned in the first place! When I did my wing replace I thought I was just going to have to replace the wing, but when I got into it I ended up replacing the headlamp carrier, support bracket, those two little brackets I mentioned before and the bumper support bracket. None were expensive but it was a pain to keep finding something else to fix :( I also had to "kinetically readjust" the flying bracket that supports the little backets as it's part of the inner wing and welded to the chassis. BTW I have a load of piccies of the wing repair if that's of any help?