MarkyG82

@tootI think you are missing the point of a pedal box. Yes it can help with a sluggish change or response but it really does do more than that. I wouldn't drive a VAG regularly without one. My local dealer didn't worry about it for any warranty stuff. It's essentially doing the same as your right foot (for most of us) but it how the signal is applied that changes the feel.

Do a search for dtuk pedal box. As these car accelerators are controlled by electronics instead of a physical cable you can alter the signal by having a type of box installed between the pedal and the car. It gives the ability to tune the response of the accelerator. The most notable benefit is reducing the lag in the input. This is the thing most people fit them for.

Maybe if you want to maintain warranty get them to do them at 6 years but then do the filters on your own every 2 years is a better compromise? Although @ 6 years you'll be out of any normal warranty anyway. Yes maybe my annual filters is a touch on the often side but that's what I have done for the last 24 years of vehicle ownership. Also seen what a bad filter can do through my career as an engineer.

Air filter 6 years and 60k? Annual thanks. Same for pollen filter. Cost me a little over £20 for the pair for my Passat and took longer to look up how to get to them than actually doing the job. If you can change a light bulb you can change a dry filter in a car. Wet filters are a little more complex.

In reverse order: B ) Most maps from a reputable tuner will be fine with low gains. You should be aware that even a basic remap will give you loads of extra power and torque in the lower revs where you need it most day to day. It's about the area under the curve and not the peak power. A ) Yes. Any map will be recognised by the dealer. Definitely if they look for it in the diagnostic and likely if they test drive it. If you are at all concerned about voiding the warranty, don't change anything. Cosmetic stuff is likely ok but you won't get any warranty cover for anything that relates to that part. Think window tint. They will not warrant a window motor for example. It's likely that if you remap it and have a fault anywhere they will do their best to get out of it. Door rattle? "The map made you drive faster than the car was designed for and applied unplanned forces to the chassis" would be their answer. If you want a bit more response from the car why not think about a pedal box? Makes enough difference for most people.

Na. The rear is fairly simple. I've done it on MK2 Octavia, MK3 Octavia (with torsion beam) and Passat (similar/same as superb). Front is more complex.

Doubt it's the springs. They don't tend to be that far gone and not be in bits. More likely to be the shocks and some bushes. Definitely worth putting money into those before spending on wheels. Also unclear on the width of those wheels?

Rear is really simple: Jack up and place on stands. Wheels off. Lower shock bolts out with Jack under the swing arm to stop it banging open. Top mount likely behind some trim but easy enough to get to. Swap top mount to new shock. Push arm down to release spring. Replace everything. Both side should be done at the same time especially given the age of the car. Also makes it easier to get the springs out if both shocks are released as you don't have to worry about the roll bar. Also look up what the torque specs are for the bolts. Likely big Ft rather than little ft (F'ing tight rather than finger tight).

Yes they should. It's why the VAG plans are not often recommended on here. Did the BMW/nissan plans also include cambelt? That would be a big deal as there's not much regular stuff on top that normal customers would need.

Do other man's service plans really include that stuff? A colleague just got a new car (Mazda) and was looking at the plans. I suggested looking at what was included and he's gone the route of paying piece meal.

Is the 190 4x4 a diesel? The Octavia is a much lighter car. Should be good.

Toot has mentioned it. The dq200 is not a normal box. The system has been designed not to drag the dry clutch. The bigger boxes all have wet clothes that are cooled by the oil. A dry clutch will simply overheat if it had a creep function enabled. Reverse is acceptable as you tend to drive forward more.

Does it have autohold? The revving to 1300 sounds little odd but mine does that on cold start. Overall sounds relatively normal.

From memory with my Octavia it wouldn't always shift when going into S. It depends on the revs and car speed at the time. If I was off the gas and pulled back on the stick it might just change down earlier than D or E rather than straight away.

Earlier DSGs on the smaller engines (1.6 and below) suffered. Toot will no doubt be along with the details but I would avoid those. Worth going for the bigger engine with the wet DSG if it were me. Although it does sound like you survived with your MK2 DSG. I think you would struggle to find a 2.0 petrol that isn't a vrs though.

Warranty discussions aside, stage 2 is generally considered for cars that have modified breathing. That's intakes and exhaust. You can also do other stuff like intercooler. I would suggest not to tune a car to that level with no other mods. You will probably need to service it more regularly too. If it were me I would do a flush service (oil change then run it for a couple of days) before doing another. Then check all faults and change as many filters as you can get to before doing any mapping.

Just realised that my question above is silly as I had already said it wouldn't run on the main battery. I'll get my coat.

Would that then run off the main battery?

I was going to say that the 12v is likely only charged when the 400v system is active. Confirmed with the link above. Thanks @Patent I would suggest having it connected should be the same as any other car and you should either switch it off or have some sort of battery backup system.

That does not describe a learning system. It simply adapts to the required throttle input. It may have some level of retention, maintaining a moderate style, dynamic style or any combination in between for a short while until it recognises that you want a different output from it. This again is not a learning system like people think it is. The dsg reset is mainly used to recirculate oil and to let the system re-adapt the clutch bite points. This can have the affect of making the box feel different and many comment that it then starts to relearn. All correct apart from the relearning bit.

Got any proof? Not trying to be difficult but I always thought the learning thing was a myth. The boxes do adapt to throttle input but learning?

Like a lot of car stuff if it works for you and you don't mind the feel then it's surely a good thing. Any way of reducing emissions etc. For me I didn't like the way it did it on my Octavia. The near zero coasting felt odd. My GTE on the other hand does it (presumably as per the vid above) but with the near instant response to drive of the electric bits I do t feel out of control like it did with just a ln engine attached. Also it shuts the engine off so you get actual zero tailpipe stuff. All just preferences.

Replace the dpf if it's blocked? If you have bought it like that (knowingly) and your journeys suit a dpf then it's worth replacing. If your journeys are too short then you'll end up back in this same place. In that case you may have got the wrong car unfortunately.

Engine mounts could be the problem. As soon as I read the title I thought dual mass flywheel. Could mean a whole clutch assembly. If manual this is a relatively straightforward job I think. Dsg not so much.

I have that front fitted to my Passat GTE estate too.