MarkyG82

As root suggests up there /\/\ the full dealer history does not mean it has been serviced correctly. Just means you have an accurate record of what has been done up to now. The MOT history looks like someone owned it who isn't a car person and does the bare minimum. If the dsg was not done at 40k it's a sign that it's not been looked after IMO.

Doesn't matter if it's free and no damage occurs. Placebos have their place.

I'm on pixel 5 but the latest beta (12L?) And AAwireless has stopped working. I think I need to wipe all traces from my phone and reset the dongle to get it back. Wired AA is working most of the time. Fails to fire up now and then and also has a few hiccups with freezes or no GPS/data. Usually when I need it most too. Hoping the May update will help stabilise it and I'll then put the effort into getting the dongle working again.

To add to my comment above, don't always trust a place to have coded it correctly just because they plugged in a gadget and said "yes". There are quite a few reports on here (and elsewhere) of Halfords/Kwik fit type places not doing the coding.

You need to tell the system it has a new battery. Usually by changing the serial number by one digit. If you don't then it will charge it like it's the old one (low rate of charge) and the new one won'tike it. OBDeleven or VCDS is the normal tool for this.

Whiteline? I know for a fact they do one for the golf r as I accidentally ordered one.

I don't think they did a smaller screen than your original for the mib2 system. Sounds like you probably got an mib1 screen as the replacement which won't be compatible. I'd get your money back as there is no way of making it work.

Vcds or OBDeleven usually. Some say there is a way to do it with a pedal combo but I've never got that to work.

Yes. Longer answer: I think it does this to protect against prolonged limiter bouncing and also to keep the engine turning at a sensible minimum speed.

You may find that UK models are all DAB. I know that models in other parts of Europe have different specs. Ireland might follow suit. A Columbus system should have DAB.

I found keeping the glass clean helped. You'd be surprised how much a bit of dirt impacts the light transmission.

Aside from the political debate, of which there are many elements that have been stressed lately, and the technical debate on the actual levels of bioethanol (if it is even bio) - I use premium in my GTE as I can go many miles without putting fresh fuel in. I may be barking up the wrong tree as the fuel tank in a phev is more sealed due to the length of time it can stay in there. As a result the fuel has less chance to breath with the outside world. On a side note: how does E10 compare with E85? Is the 85 bit the ethanol so up to 15% petrol? Or is it 15% ethanol (minimum?)?

As above but more precisely answer your question: S mode is not manual shifting mode. M mode by pushing the stick to the side is manual mode with shifting via either the paddles or pushing the stick forward for up or backward for down. S mode changes gear for you but at higher engine revs and offers a sharper accelerator pedal feel.

Was one of the reasons I ended up with my GTE instead of iV. £1600 extra over the first few years on a car that was already more (new Vs used) plus feeling less precious about it.

You'll need a code reader that has more to it than the usual cheap ones used for just reading codes. Usual options suggested on here are VCDS or OBDeleven. Former needs some sort of computer (laptop) and is more expensive to start with. Latter is cheaper and wireless via a phone app. Arguably not as powerful but able to do 99% of what a home timkererererer needs. Unless you can find a local to do the coding you might want to wait till you have access to the required coding equipment before fitting the battery. May not make a difference but I wouldn't want to be doing too many journeys like that in fear of damaging the new unit. Edit: there is a section on this forum of people who have vcds and are willing to share the love usually for a beer or 2. Cheaper than a garage and you get to nerd out with a fellow car nut.

@Pete_Ex-Wino of you are right. Does seem to be an issue that gremlins occur with a depleted battery. However that doesn't remove the need for proper diagnosis (and repair) of source issues. I was merely passing on what I had seen from other users. For what it's worth I disabled stop/start on my Octavia for much of the 3½ years I had it and was still working fine when I re-enabled it before sale. It was over 6 years old at the time so goes against my battery age theory.

Also assume it's a typo with 2005? Should it be 2015? If so at 7 years old it could easily be end of life for the battery. I'm sure the consensus on here is roughly 5 years for these modern stop/start batteries.

Screen does not need coding. Pretty sure that is an MIB2 bolero. Should be able to fit any MIB2 screen apart from the 9.2 Columbus screen. Just needs the VAG removal tools and maybe a tweak to the cable plug if the shape is off slightly. Common mod for this type of car. If I got it wrong and you have MIB1 unit then you will need the matching screen which should be cheaper as it's older and less desirable. A couple of hundred should see you done.

Tax on all would be the same if list price under £40k unless you are looking at older (pre 2018?) Vehicles. Increase in diesel fuel cost Vs better mileage makes the price difference smaller. If your driving routine works for the diesel then see if you can take them both for a test drive. If you can get an iV then have a look but I would suggest it's not suitable for your journeys. Too long and motorway is not right for it. They are nice though and if you can get one in budget that you like don't rule it out completely. My money would be aiming for the 190tsi though.

As above. You need a remap for that. Whether you want a stock tune or not you need someone who is willing and able. A dealer would have the stock tunes but I extremely unlikely to to be willing to load anything other than what can on the car. Unless you had a really good relationship with a dealer but if that was the case you wouldn't be asking on here. Therefore the solution for what you want is a remap.

As above. No gains on a diesel. Reason being that diesels are controlled by fuel not intake air. As a result they always have more air than is required for combustion. This makes induction kits effectively useless as they are designed to supply more air. You may get marginal more response but you would probably need a remap and other supporting mods (turbo inlet, exhaust, etc.) To make any real difference with an induction kit.

My Passat is basically the same so I'll share my experience. Should get mid to high 40s on a run with gentle throttle. On an 80 mile round trip you can use the charge strategically on the slow urban bits either end and the engine on the motorway. You would soon get used to getting the most from it. Maybe see anything from 60 to 100 mpg (over the 40 mile each way) depending on charge and ambient temperature.

Oh yeah I was definitely talking about private owners. I was assuming the demographic on here are private owners or at least willing and able to charge at home. Could be wrong.

Marshall group in Newbury have served me well and I believe they have a dealer in Reading if that's close enough? Edit: may only be vw in Reading. Do they honour a Skoda service plan?

As root says, the stories of new batteries are similar to the requirement for a new engine. As they get older the capacity reduces. As an engine gets older the power reduces. You can fix both by replacing or rebuilding. The current (no pun intended) high cost of batteries is merely due to the young technology. Charging at home is definitely the most used and convenient route to fuel an ev. Imagine never having to go to a fuel station again. Once they sort wireless charging (induction?) you will simply get in the car and go. No thinking about how much fuel you have like I did today as driving to family at the weekend.