MarkyG82

Had a mark like that on my octavia dash that was still there when I sold it a couple of years later.

It depends what you want. I would predict that the 1.4 doesn't breath enough to make a huge difference with a full inlet kit let alone a drop in filter. If you are looking at doing it on the cheap you should probably take a look at what you have and see if there are any restrictions. For example the 2.0 inlet has: half of the start of the inlet blocked off, half the back side of the inlet opening is open to the engine bay a snow guard in the air box Fix these things and you should notice an improvement at least in noise. The 1.4 may have similar restrictions. Those sausage shape things are apparently there to damp the noise so remove/blank those may a starting point. Just don't mess with any sensors.

Afraid I cant comment pon the fitting of the kit but as we are mildly debating different rack food groups... Have used roof mounts for a number of years and will continue to for security access to the boot. However having recently acquired a car with a towbar and also got a rack (Thule quick release job) from my dad, the convenience of having the bike on the back is great. I'll be using both* while I have the kit. *Not at the same time unless we need to (kids etc)

Just a brief update on this. Pretty much as my above post re the handling and looks. The lag in the transition between EV and ICE is much improved with the dogbone insert. I know they are usually set aside for much sportier/tuned models but the benefit is clear on the hybrid system. The suspension is now in need of attention I think. There are some really bad speed bumps and road 'features' of various sizes around here and it really does show the bad points of the suspension. It feels almost as firm as my Octavia on B6 shocks and prokit springs but with a fair bit less control. I cant decide whether its the shocks that are causing it or if a slight drop (prokit?) would improve matters. As the roll bar is a relatively easy job and the turn in and lean is not too bad I'll leave that as a job for fine tuning. Having now fitted the spacers too it is apparent that the rear end sits lower. Could be due to the increase weight of the battery and the fuel tank being further back combined with springs that are from a regular model. I have some audi top spacers somewhere that I will take a look at fitting. That should even things out. If I do go down the lowering route I'll leave the spacer in for that added clearance. First MOT tomorrow so we'll see then if they spot any shock leaks and whether I get an excuse to replace them.

That's the other thing with konis. I think the special active are the same as fsd. I'm sure someone will correct me.

Go hunting on some websites that do kits and parts and start measuring what you have to what matches. I mean silicon pipes etc. Then you can find a cone filter and some sort of shield. Hardest part will be finding a bracket for it.

Yeah that's a no. Take the filter out and measure it. You may also be able to make your own setup. Probably the way I'd go. Make it up with off the shelf parts. If you can do it from the same manufacturer they may give you a discount for trying a kit out?

Is the air box not the same as the 2.0 models?

Koni fsd or bilstein b6 are your best bet. From what I've seen the fsd will be more comfortable (but still an improvement) and the b6 will last longer.

If it's the 2.0 it definitely won't be a dry clutch. As above its more likely to be the 6 speed wet box. Take it on a high speed run if you can to force it into top gear. Also, pretty sure the fixed price for dsg service is £159. You don't say how many miles it's done. They are due at 40k.

Go back to whoever did the windscreen?

An effective offset of 26 (with the adaptor) with an 8.5 width shouts no unless you really want a fat stance. Put the figures into will they fit and then measure what you have already. I'd guess it would stick out too far.

I know he's ruffled a few feathers but a lifetime ban!

Just stick with using posh fuel for now. Common to get +10bhp on v-power or similar bon these engines. If warranty safe, some simple inlet mods and exhaust will help too. Then they'll help unlock the power once mapped down the line.

Probably have a look at the thread above yours. What year is yours? Plenty places that will map a vrs TDI.

Can I ask how hard wearing these are? I have had rubber mats in my cars for a number years and when seen these thought they were cosmetic only. Do they add much in the way of sound reduction or insulation?

While this is true about the pedal input, the affect it has on the driveability and gear selection is undeniable. It may also be true about the shift points for some dsg maps but many of the maps that claim to alter them mearly speed up the shifts. An engine remap making the engine more lively makes the stock shift points far more bearable. I certainly wouldn't have a day map without an engine map. Particularly on a 2.0 TDI.

I had a pedal box fitted and it made a big difference to what you are talking about. Also an engine map is not just about peak power. The way the power is delivered is more of a benefit with a map. From the reviews I have read about dsg maps they are more subtle and it's very difficult to actually change the shift points. Far easier and improves other aspects if you map the engine and fit a pedal box.

As above, unless you have Columbus stereo (unlikely in a TDI vrs as it was most likely a commuter tool) you won't be able to have a second Bluetooth connection. AA still uses Bluetooth for calls. Most other stuff is done via cable.

Pretty sure canton subs have been fitted under the driver seat. As said, the Dash speaker is a central channel.

The j fitting is the width. Yes the offset is 11mm different but the rim is wider too. Halve the difference in with added to the offset difference is how far further out it will be.

So I guess the answer is they will fit and function but there is no confirmation on whether they will perform correctly. If it's a mild drop you want maybe eibach pro with audi spring pads on the rear is the way to go. Although they are only 6mm or so thicker with the spring being half* way along the arm the actual affect at the wheel will be more (9/10mm?) *this is a rough guess

Is that confirmed in real life or just from assumptions? The standard rear end is torsion beam and the vrs is independent. They could well work but I'd want to see more than an interweb confirmation.

Not on a kodiaq but used one on an octavia for a few months. Still have it if you want to try it out as you aren't too far from me. I tried selling it but didn't get too much interest. If you like it i am after enough for a fuel and beer at this stage.

It depends on your requirements. Space/position vs sound. If you can fit it in the seat behind the driver that may well be a good spot acoustically. In the boot somewhere would be more practical but likely to lose energy from it via the rear seats and it being further away. I've always thought on top of the tunnel between the rear footwells would be a good compromise. Would obviously require a custom box.