MarkyG82

DCC is already 10mm lower than standard. There's your 20mm drop.

Also, the 1.4 in the iV/GTE is not the same as the standard 1.4tsi. It has all sorts of different coatings on surfaces to reduce friction and I think maybe some different (lighter?) components. It all adds up to a package that is quite different and I think they did finger in the air service predictions for it.

So, assuming the screen is genuinely duff (doubtful), and forgetting the mega high suggested, fitting just a screen is really straight forward. Just need some vag stereo tools and the ability to plug a TV in. No coding. However, if anything to do with the infotainment is wrong, it's more likely to be the head unit in the glovebox. Equally simple to physically change but needs more coding as per the above posts. You could also try locating the headlight controller and unplugging it for a bit with the aim to reset/reboot it.

Just to add a little to this is that the profile figure is a percentage of the width. Saying 45 isn't ideal really depends on the width. 45 profile on a 235 is much deeper than 45 on 195. So it's not as cut and dry as looking at profile alone.

Also depending on year the box will default to normal on start up (sometimes eco if selected, depends on firmware).

Actually mine was a 150 not 140. Owned it for roughly 2 years post remap with no I'll effects.

Had a very similar experience in my Octavia. It had been a while since a full brake bleed so had that done and it never happened again (happened 3 or 4 times up to that point). A bleed is relatively cheap so could be worth a shot. Although I understand that doing a bleed on the off chance may not be the route you want to take due to your work.

@flybynite yeah that sounds more like it.

That reminds me, I need to watch the fast films in readiness for the new one.

Waze shows speed regardless of nav set or not. I think the start up defaults to what you were using last. So if you don't want maps to show change it to a music or other app before you shutdown is my best suggestion. Out of interest, what's the harm with maps starting as default?

Yeah high possiblity. The newer car are definitely geared higher for economy.

Mine was the estate with 50mm so go figure.

I moved from a 1.9 95hp that had been mapped to roughly 135. The new car was a 140tdi so I was excited to be Inna more powerful car. It felt so dull in comparison even with more power. When I got it mapped it was then at about 185 and even then didn't feel as lively as the 1.9. I'd say what you are feeling is normal and a map will help.

Just climb under the car with a caliper and measure it. There is a rule of thumb that bigger engined cars get the 55mm but I had 50mm on my 2.0tdi so not always true.

Also black circles is on topcashback.

I have Michelin cross climates and although they are not super sporty they are consistently grippy in all conditions. There is maybe too much torque with the electric drive in my GTE (same as superb iV) but in a normal car with less instant torque they would be fine. Not had all season tyres before now as spent the last 6/7 years swapping between summer and winter wheel sets. I'll see how they wear and decide then if I stick to single tyre set. For summer previously I had some Goodyear eagle f1 and then efficient grip performance. Both were nicely rounded performance and lasted well.

See that's wierd. I'm having the opposite. Wired is fine. AAwireless has the issue.

That certainly an option. Get one you know fits your vehicle and at least you don't have to break something and have a car off the road.

Check out this vid. One of the better descriptions of how to take it apart. Should give you a some idea if it is worth the effort.

The button pulls a shaft that runs down the centre of the stick. This would need shortening. I can't remember what the end of the shaft looks like to recommend how best to do it. It a hole or something. 2 ways: 1) cut the end off, remove a section and refit the end. 2) remake the end fitting after chopping some off. Then shortening the main stick should be relatively straightforward. Just need to be very accurate with how much you remove. The fitting on top with the button section I think comes off once the shaft is disconnected from the button. Do some googling on replacing the lever and you should see what I'm talking about.

Car port? Bit more durable than a cover. A mate has a cover on his xr2i and needs to replace it every couple of years. That's with it not moving (waiting to be done up) and in his old man's garage. I imagine a cover in your area being taken off and stored (wet?) would go in under a year.

Pretty sure it will still go up if you take the revs high enough.

I exclusively used posh diesel on my Octavia. Imagine it's the same engine. On the odd occasion I put regular in I noticed the difference in both mileage and response.

There are already a couple of threads on this subject. For DCC there is the Bilstein B6 Damptronic that people are raving about. Also some coilovers (KW I think) but they are pushing double the price. For none-DCC you have the standard B6, Koni Special Active (formerly FSD) and miriad other coilovers. For springs you have H+R (40mm drop), Eibach prokit (30-35mm drop), Eibach sportline (50-60mm? drop). This drop is based on standard ride height. Sportline is 15mm drop from factory. DCC is 10mm drop regardless of sportline or not. Take those figures off the aftermarket figures for your drop. Then you have RARB which seems to be popular right now. Search for that as there seems to be conflicting views on compatibility and the options are vast. Personally I am going for Special Actives and a rear roll bar with standard height for now. Currently have some rubber spring assisters fitted to the rear which gives me enough support to help in the corners but is not a a long term solution. Not sure what bar I will fit but happy to do that at home after the shocks have been done. Will likely refir the assisters between times as the stock floppiness at the back end is not nice. Edit: Just seen you already are looking at springs. I think the difference is down to the engine/gearbox combo you have. DSG adds some weight and obviously a bigger engine is more weight. My guess is anything 2.0 dsg go for the stiffer one. 2.0 manual or 1.4/1.6 dsg go for middle. 1.4/1.6 manual the lowest. Thats got to be a good starting point at least.

I have this when using my AAwireless dongle. Wired there isn't an issue.