MarkyG82

I've looked into this when I had my Octavia and never found anything. The progressive nature lends itself well to shorter springs as the starting rate is similar to stock then ramping up to stop you blowing through the travel.

No. You'll need either a full set of mib2 parts* or a replacement mib head unit. * Head unit, screen, canton amp. Unit and amp then need CP removed. As usual, screen does not need CP or coding work.

Have you looked at koni special active? They are the go to at the mo for better ride and handling.

Good story

If you don't already have a wheel with buttons then it's unlikely to work without an extra module in the steering column and some wiring. I hate to do this again as it seems like it always the only option.... Try asking @SashaGrace as she is the oracle on modules on here.

@Carlston let me know if can't/don't want to help (happy either way) but as someone who obviously knows a bit about this stuff. I have looked a bit into this with various part numbers and the Passat GTE/superb iV looks to have 13.5mm wire for the rear coils. If that's the case and the shocks are also fitted to cars with <12.5mm springs that would explain the somewhat uncontrolled feel. What I am struggling to find is part numbers for sportline springs and also if the sportline iV is actually lower than a standard one. Scratch that. All the superb iVs have DCC which would put them at all the same height. I can feel myself going in circles!

I can probably get this from the colour coding in the springs and compare to your list. Thanks for the details on how to figure it out. OEM springs are surprisingly affordable so I'll compare and contrast to pick what I want. All I know is a factory lowered height (15mm?) Is preferable to pro-kit (30-35mm). That way I can fit special actives and forget about the setup till they start to wear out. Thanks again.

Anyone?

It's possible the setting has stuck actually. I've not unplugged it tonight and not had it pop up. Fingers crossed. It's also a touch slow to start up. A couple of minutes sometimes. Usually about 30 secs. Long enough that I can't just jump in, get comfy and tell it where I want to go.

I have a set of efficient grips on some 18s that I need rid of*. West Herts isn't a million miles away from me in Basingstoke. They have only done a few 100 miles. You can have them for less than they cost and I'll chuck in the wheels. Let me know if interested. I'll be putting them up for sale in the next few weeks. *don't own a car that will take them any longer

I've had mine for 2 or 3 weeks. Aside from the fact it doesn't turn off and my phone keeps trying to connect when I'm in the house it's great. I think there is a fix in the app but I have found it hard to get the settings to save thus far. An app update the other day may have helped. Not had a chance to check yet.

Do they do a scout version of the superb?

I've had some (rubber helpers) fitted to the Passat for the last week or so. Only raised the ride height by a few mm. Helped stop bottom out when loaded up (the reason I fitted them). The road holding is much better now but I know it's not a long term solution. Has a similar effect to fitting a stiffer rear roll bar when unloaded so that is what I will fit in its place. I think this will help solve the somewhat sold back end* *If the superb is softer than the Passat I'm glad I got the VW in the end even if I'm still not 100% happy with it.

As above you are welcome to try mine (and buy if you like it) but I wouldn't rely on a box for fuel economy. Even a proper map doesn't really improve the mpg. Add a couple of psi to your tyres and make sure you keep up with maintenance to get good mpg. Oh yeah, driving style is a huge benefit too.

What @PetrolDave said is probably the clearest explanation of this I've seen. Give @pab567 a shout and he can confirm if that unit you have found is correct for your car/system and how much he'd charge for the coding. Your auto electrical guy is right about the coding but there are others who can do it and the physical swap is very easy. If you can plug in a TV you can do this swap. You are very unlikely to break something. Just do a search for VAG head unit keys. Only tool you need.

The touch screen is just a screen. Like a pc with monitor and computer. Have you confirmed that the screen has failed and that is the part you need? If so then £400 for labour is outrageous! Honestly takes 2 minutes to swap a screen out and there is no coding required. The cd player is the actual stereo unit. If that has failed then with a used part it's a bit more complex with component protection needed removing and then recoding to your car. Many have done this on here when upgrading to a later system. @pab567 is your man if this is needed.

If you want to get it fixed there are plenty options that wont cost 1200. do a search on here fo retrofitting head unit and you should come up with plenty of results explaining what is required. If there is nothing at all on the screen then it could be that part that is bust and a couple of hundred quid should see you right. If its the head unit (glove box unit) you could be looking at £300-500. still much cheaper than dealer quotes.

380 does sound a bit steep unless they supplied other supporting hardware?

Another thing to add to my previous comments is the body control of the car. I find if the car I'm driving is overly rolly then I get much more tired and I find it harder to get comfy. I have just fitted spring assisters as a temporary measure while o go back and forth emptying my late father's house. They reduce body roll greatly to the point I don't want to remove them. Not a good long term solution so I've started looking at rear roll bars.

@pab567to the thread please. Pab is the man with this stuff. He'll be able to sort you out for much less than 3keuros.

Had a mk2 octavia (cloth seats), mk3 octavia (half leather) and now have a passat (half leather). All have been slightly different seating position but not uncomfortable. I'm 5'6 and slightly overweight with short legs. Have done long journeys in all 3 cars no problem. A couple of things the passat has is the front height adjustment (raises the front to tilt the seat back) and the front edge of the seat can be adjusted out/in. This adds to the greater possibility of getting the position you want. I'm sure they do similar seats across the VAG range. It's a shame Seat don't make a superb/passat model as I really like the cloth seats in MrsGs Arona.

So I've done some more digging and found that the GTE ride height is not lowered despite have 'sport" suspension. Not sure what the sport relates to with the part numbers being the same for GTE and standard 2.0 models. I do t think I could cope with the the full 35mm front 30mm rear drop of the prokit setup that I was initially looking at. There also doesn't seem to be a factory lowered option for the Passat so the only other option I might be looking at is superb sportline springs. 15mm drop would be fine and provide that little extra support. I can then decide if shocks are needed. Does anyone have part numbers for sportline estate shocks? iV or not. Or is there someone on here with a sportline that has fitted other springs and has the old ones gathering dust?

Not seen it documented but from user reports the sportline DCC is 10mm drop like standard DCC.

I have the same quandary. I want to improve things but don't want to lose too much height. Bilstein b6 is high on the list as I know what they offer but the slight raise in height (due to pressure) is making me think a set of prokit springs would fit well with it. Then some Audi pads at the rear to give some protection against heavy loads (and I like the raked look).

You could always raise the rear with thicker Audi pads if needed? It's what I'm looking at for the GTE. The suspension is the same as stock Passat sport parts so hangs a little low at the rear from the the extra 150 or so kg. Almost looks lowered at the rear. Estates should be raised at the rear IMO for better load lugging.