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@Brian15 That is a really good price for them doing a 1.5 TSI ACT. Over 2 years ago.

What happened in the UK was that The Tories called General Elections and kept holding up bills and legislation. It will no doubt all be back on track. After all the Labour Party & the Secretary of State for Transport, and all the others are fully clued up. Full Steam ahead on the EV Truck Convoys and the Self Driving Ubers. Maybe they can even get Digital Radio reception throughout the UK, ANPR everyplace, GPS received everyplace. Maybe they can get all vehicles off UK roads that are un-taxed, uninsured, no MOT and drivers without licences caught. PS It will be something when the UK Government / Legislation starts catching up on vehicles with Air Bags that are under recalls and have not been in with some being over a decade since they were known as 'Safety Critical. Then there are the Out of Date Air bags. A big change will be when Insurance Companies that sell 'Write offs' of what ever class are responsible for ensuring the sold on & 'Repaired Vehicles' have New Airbags, Seat belts fitted. Actually that cars are not just back on the road with a MOT carried out at a Non Council / Government facility.

@chills Thankfully there are those that do, and not all with the knowledge that tut tut. When the legislation gets going let us know please. Plenty threads on that over the past years.

@chills Are you talking from the actual experience of doing engine swaps in the UK, or even Radical Modifications?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/226003-the-twins-and-yeti-rs/page/118 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/243854-citigo-a citigo-with-more-go/page/87 Yeti with a TT RS engine.

MOT,s, DVLA Inspections & IVA,s if needed are not an issue. If you do not know what is needed, then others do.

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Except there is no throwing in of the belt. Lots of strtipping down to then fit the new belt with the correct equipment to set it up, then refitting. 22,000 km only i would be leaving it. Well maybe not the way i drive, but if i was not the driver i might leave it. @AhmadAlmasri1771 Sorry for going off the subject you asked about. Are we any further on from where we got too? Up to you who's advice you accept!

My car glass is getting sand blasted as the wind brings sharp sand up from the quarry 200 meters away. 2 nights of rain this weekend after nothing for weeks. High dust region right here and now. Angus.

PS. Your location looks to be a High Dust Region.

Do it when ever you want. I have not checked to see where you are, Dust free Region or not. Not correct 5 years / 100,000 km. Not cheap to do though as you say. They need the equipment and the skills / knowledge. So where is your Local Dealer and was that the service desk staff or workshop staff you were told by? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/532583-help-appreciated-15-tsi-act-wet-or-dry-timing-belt

Welcome to the forum. It is a Dry Belt. Expensive to change, and up to 2023 Skoda / VW UK was saying at 5 years /50,000 miles. Cost of being done at main Dealers from £800-£1,200. That was revised, UK not a Dust Rich Region, and people not having them done, trading in cars instead and Dealers would have to do them. 6 plus hours they told owners it took. (7.5 hours in the book.) So plenty paid the big money and cars sold with FMDSH and serviced to Guidelines. THEN DEALERS SELLING CARS THAT WERE NOT DONE, SAVED THEM DOING THEM. @Steve2 Where are you seeing that it is a wet belt? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/529390-wet-timing-belt This was pre 2023, but not according to Skoda / VW Group main dealers.

They send many out low on oil and then members are on here saying a warning light is on after only 5,000 miles. That is mostly 1.5 TSI,s now. And then we have the I have a message on too much oil. Check the oil when hot once home. Check once after an oil and filter change. Not that much to do.

@Mickvrs220 If all smaller capacity 3 or 4 TSI,s with a smaller oil capacity were like yours it would be 'Simply Clever'. If all 1.2 & 1.4, or 1.8 & 2.0 TSI Euro 5 engines were like yours them people might have had less My car uses oil threads. @Sco22y If a dipstick is really difficult to read and see the dry from the wet, a little rub with chalk or a slight dusting of french chalk / talc does the job and really does not affect / spoil the Hot Oil.

Are you going to be checking the Oil as per Owners Manual? So good you dip cold / ambient temp, you know you have oil. All VW / Skoda engines other than those now with no dip stick or 44 kW 1.2 Euro 4 engines are checked 'Dipped at normal operating temperature'. So that is about a 90 *oC indicated temp on the car. Oil temp not coolant. Not WARM. Not sitting ticking over for 5 minutes... As Tech / Fitters / Mechanics say is fine. (Hence so many not filled with enough oil from a service, they are supposed to recheck after the road test after a service.) So after a drive of about 5 miles maybe at this time of year, (or when you get stopped after a run, or home from a car serviced.) stop on the flat, wait a few minutes. (A few is 4 or 5 minutes.) About the same as after topping up with fuel. Where is the oil on the dipstick compared to dipped cold? Have you overfilled? When you know where the correct level is at NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, you know once cold where it should be before setting off on trips. AREA 'A'.

This just seems to be going way over the top when it comes to the dash. I would have one just to be able to tell someone, 'Put your finger in the 'A hole'. In the UK the steering wheel will be at the other side and that touch screen stuff at your left hand side, for the left hand / fingers to be touching. OK for those left handed or ambidextrous.

@MikkyTee what engine and DSG has your car? Is it the 1.6 TDI with a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG? A whole other kettle of fish from a 2.0 TSI with a DQ381 DSG.

If a wheel so the tyre, air in tyre heats up because of maybe a bearing going or binding brakes then the TPMS might well pick up on the tyres total radius / circumference increasing from the set size. So not just loss of air might get picked up on.

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This is as bad as my efficiency is getting at the moment when the temp is between 12 to 20 degrees C. Much the same in town doing the odd couple of miles several times a day or out of town on 60 mph bendy roads. AC on or roof and windows open. About £1 for 60 miles charging on the 3 pin. (All season 16" 195 tyres on, not the 17" 205 ECO tyres that are OEM.)

There is potential everyplace. Just a small point but the Principality of Wales is not England and really not there for England to get cheaper energy than in Wales. The England / Westminster Government messed about for over a decade, 2 decades actually so what could be now is 20 years behind. So where all these new wind farms, barrages, substations, SM Nuclear & pylons are going to be up and running this summer is a mystery... The reason the EV Battery Factories are going up in Hungary is because Putin made sure that Hungary is energy rich.

The UK can get as close or cosy as it likes to the EU. Chinese companies building Chinese designed / engineered cars with Chinese Batteries are building factories in the EU for cars and batteries. Some EU Countries are happy to accept them and if Germany, France or Italy are not happy Hungary could not give a toss. So the UK can have them in from far far away or just across the Channel and a bit into Continental Europe. @lol-lol That new tariff chart per region is very interesting. High time the South of the UK was generating more electricity and not just getting it cheap with lots imported.

Cost to public charge, maybe Rapid or Ultra Rapid still from about 45 pence to 89 pence a kWh. So 10 kWh from £4.50 - £8.90, to maybe take you only 24 miles or maybe 50 miles. The 300 miles+ at just 6.7 pence a kWh or so is lovely. 60 kWh for only £4.00 But there lies the Social Divide of Home / Work / Offpeak Charging compared to using Public charging.

It is not marginal where the route suits and you might be using less fuel. Head from the coast in Scotland towards the centre, mountains / hills you are going sea level to maybe 2,000 feet above sea level. You are using fuel climbing, coming back not using Coasting then maybe less fuel used because mostly down hill. Use coasting next time returning, and see if you save fuel. Come into Glasgow from the south on the M77 and down into Glasgow and in the 4-5 miles if you are able to keep moving and Coasting you can compare to doing the same at another time and not coasting. Location location location. But Coasting Enabled costs you nothing to try and when you do the same journeys regularly you can do a tanks worth with you using 'Coasting' and another time without. See if one way is more economic fuel wise than the other, Less fuel used is also less emissions if the engine is working efficiently. Even 40 miles extra range if using Coasting is a win if your travel times are the same for just keeping your toe off the accelerator when going down hill or there is no load on the engine. It is not Rocket Science, most kids learn when the cycle what is least work and a use of energy, up hill or down dale. Drive an electric car and see how the power meter drops going down hill, and if you have increased regen braking on or not you can gain energy into the battery. Freewheeling / coasting or retarding speed slightly.

Traction Control TC/ ASR is not required when there us Grip / Friction / Traction and not crap ECO Bias WLTP result getting crap tyres fitted. Actually with XDS / XDS+ it is pretty crap, but when you are in ice / snow amd looking to get moving you might well put TC off.