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@Diljit Sorry, i do not think anyone is annoyed. I put in the report just because you already had a thread running with the Sump Plug being the subject. It is far easier to answer a question when the previous answers you got are in the same thread and not spit between 2.

OT. There was a Engineering Disaster programme that i think showed that dam at the start of the vid and made me want to go and check it out sometime. It was built at the head of the gorge and the reservoir was filled, and sometime later there was a land slide that caused a tidal wave to go over the dam and wash away the town below. I think it was 2,200 people that it said perished. EDIT, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vajont_Dam This would be a cracker to do. http://fireballrally.co.uk/may-2021-monte-carlo

The light should flash when the TC 'Traction Control' (ASR Anti-slip regulation) is kicking in, not the ABS or the ESP.

Personally i have the engine oil to operating temp. OIl cap off, dipstick out. Use a pump to remove the hot oil, remove the filter and the sump plug and replace both. £3 for a new sump plug at the most.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/489181-sump-plug This would be a good thread to have posted on any further questions,..

'Push to pass' buttons for the mild hybrid cars. Just like with F1 and the Kers, we know how well that works... Not like the 'overboost' as VW & Ford were so keen on developing just a few years back because it could cheat at the emissions testing..

Last week i asked a driver of a e-Golf if she wanted to use the Rapid charger as i was just topping up while killing time and could unplug. She said she uses the fast charger in the next bay as it would put in a 100% charge but on the Rapid / 50kW charger the car stopped charging at 90%.

The MOT history looks good. Maybe the keeper used Skoda and had stuff done when it should be done. Personally a Skoda Dealership would be the last place i would have touch a good running or even a poorly running Twincharger. Check the Service & Warranty History and make your excuses and leave. As Journalist say when visiting a massage parlour. If the service campaign '34F7' has not been done then i would leave it as is. If the Heated Seats are outstanding i would get them done. 'Free' PS The Guides by @UrbanPanzerlike on the Spark Plug replacement will be of a great help if doing thing yourself.

@Garytl1000Welcome to the forum. ? How many previous registered keepers show on the V5? Best get to know the car well and how good it might be before messing with a 10 year old car with a low mileage if it is a good one. Well IMO. Beware of advice from those that know nothing about the Mk2 vRS Fabias. That was the issue with many cars, mechanics or techs saying they work on cars and TSI's and they are all much the same. Your car came with spark plugs that Skoda changed to different ones a while later and the gap for these was different. They are still pretty crap with a CAVE engine as you have. Maybe look at the last pages of the pinned thread up top about Spark Plugs. I recommend you go for the DENSO plugs of the type you will see in the thread. See what are in when you are changing the plugs. You will have no idea if the car is standard now or has a remap on it. Maybe get it on a dyno before doing any tuning mods. As to the Breather Mod, check your cars history as Skoda have it on the system. Did it get Oil consumption tests carried out at Skoda's Expense ever. If it had the Breather mod ans Software update it would have. Has it had the Oil Squirters updated? That should tell you if they paid to have your car done. Check the spare tyre well and see if it had the Service Campaign '34F7' done on the DSG. Check the cars history and see if the Engine was ever replaced by Skoda, or under warranty. Check if the Service Campaign work was done on the heated seats / switch. Check what springs and dampers it does have and see the condition, they might be replacements and quality, even if the car does sit high. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions They did not all have manual rear windows, that is if somebody paid the option to have the electrics.

Welcome to the forum.

This 10 degree thing is a bit of a nonsense really to keep repeating. Until recently it was always being said to be 7 degrees. Many parts of the UK will have much of the year with night time temps below 10 degrees C. Daytime below 10 degrees C as well. Summer tyres might well not be suitable in many conditions but many never use anything other than a car comes fitted with and do high mileages all around the UK day or night totally issue free. There are tyres suited to wet roads that might suit lots of people for 42 weeks of the year and for the other 10 weeks or so they know when they might have issues. That might even be only a few days of the years and they may be able to not even need to drive.

Thank goodness for Briskoda parts for sale where members might be selling brake hardware suitable for doing upgrades, or breaking cars with suitable parts. Then eBay etc where refurbished calipers and the likes can be purchased to upgrade brakes, and often sold by enthusiasts that know what parts are needed rather than guessing.

Just so good. Getting into an already warmed car, or if not pre warmed they are quick to heat. With the right tyres fitted and the ability to chose less power and regen braking they can drive very well on winter roads. No concerns about just doing short trips or the car sitting unused for a while as many are having with their ICE vehicles. It is just as case of being sure there is a charge in the car, and obviously they are not going to fully discharge.

@Avocet I meant they are moving about on closed road on M&S marked tyres. The CrossClimates on my Shogun have been crap this year on not much snow. I am running my Corsa with Alpin 6's fitted which have been great for the past weeks of low temps and occasional snow & ice, i changed those from the CrossClimates i had on, but the last couple of days happily taken out a BMW 335d x-drive on its summer tyres. Cold roads, but dry roads and smiles per miles. ? What have you got fitted on your Kodiaq?

Welcome. Is that in a left or right hand drive car? Maybe keep your hands on the steering wheel, and go try it on a dead flat surface like in a car park rather than on a road that has a camber to the kerb. Many in the UK complain of Pulling to the left with VW Group models including Skodas.. Sometimes the alignment is wrong from the production line, and sometimes the runout stripes on the tyres show the tyres are on wrong.

It is pretty hopeless with the tyres that are not allowing the systems to do as explained. That being the OEM tyres that the car arrive in the UK with. Sadly people believe they have bought a SUV, or a Crossover, even a 4x4 so they are sorted as they get the car from the dealership.

@TerFar no filling stations in the UK sell 98 Ron so you must be running on 97 Ron or 99.

Some M&S Marked tyres are very good on Snow that is not pisted / ploughed and salted (Gritted) I have M&S marked tyres that are not 3 peak marked and will not get binned because they have proved them selves. In the UK there will be plenty 4x4's that are moving about on M&S, or Mud or All Terrain tyres without being 3 peak marked or certified. Even moving about on roads that are inside areas where snow gates are stopping other vehicles from going into. In the old days the signs might say 'Suitable for 4x4's only'. That was then no use when the Police had 4x4s / AWD's that were no more suitable for the conditions than other Tom, **** and Henrietta that had a Soft Roader. There are plenty around with all the gear and no idea that can get themselves stuck. So many around that get themselves up a hill and then remember coming down might not be so easy.

Maybe 110ps... They are already for Social, domestic and leisure in the UK if it is just 1 or 2 people in them if doing the NSL is all that is need. More oomph / torque needed if carrying people and stuff and towing a temporary home about with you or some other equipment. The EV's being produced now and in the future are easy enough to control remotely. Pity that the UK can not have full coverage for radio, mobile or internet coverage. The UK will get with it all eventually. APR coverage is going well. Not!

Just like being at the Indoor Karting when the operator turns down the power of a Kart. Police in pursuit can just bring the speed down of the vehicle and safely to a stop. Make sense in the UK with it's NSL. No harm in restricting max speeds to 80 mph. Then if a car has no MOT, Insurance or VED if needed it gets inhibited and can not be driven. Just do not trust VW Group with the design & manufacturing of the hardware and software.

@DiljitDo you have a manual or a DSG? I take it even below 3,000 rpm in your 1.5TSI in the gears has the car moving quite fast along the road. If it takes 5 miles or so to get your indicated oil temp to 50*oC on a cold day / night then that is far enough and warm enough for the oil to boot it and get a shift on. Especially if something is up your bum wandering if you are running in your car.

@AMD87 I always put mine to off or at least less than the factory setting. & when narrower tyres or winter ones were on steering assistance to less. Than considering the weight and brakes i removed the 'success ballast weight' from the rear crash bar that VW had Skoda fit, while with every other model they were trying to reduce weight, emissions and increase fuel economy. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/227295-who-needs-a-lsd

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/489549-speed-i-items-to-be-fitted-to-all-new-cars-by-2022

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/mandatory-speed-limiters

@mrgf It is 45 years since i drove anything other than 2 pedal cars, unless they had a servo clutch and the gearboxes have done just fine. The beauty of an Automated Manual, a DSG, a CVT or an Auto, and then even more so a EV is you can do lots of miles with lots of smiles and never touch the brakes. Very handy really when you have only 1 foot and it is a left one.