Guest_

@DieselMonte Someone here will know for certain if all 75ps 1.6 TDI Monte Carlo had the same disc size as the 105ps got. Then there are early cars without ESP as standard, it was an option on some Mk2 Fabia, and then there are those without a TC / ASR button. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/428359-monte-carlo-discs-and-pads http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/442850-fabia-mk2-16td-brake-disc-problems http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/425365-monte-carlo-rear-disc-upgrade-done

@AMD87 & i never cooked the sh!t OEM Fabia vRS Mk2 brakes on the hottest of summer days on the quickest hill roads where no camera vans are there to catch you speeding and if they were you would see them miles off. But then i use the throttle for accelerating and manual down shifts for slowing and hardly ever brake. I have only ever crashed while braking and the tyres losing grip, never ever while accelerating.

The issue might well be that those Leasing or with a car on finance are not going to be invalidating the warranty. Them those buying and owning the car are concerned on running a DQ200 DSG without any warranty. Even if the Software Update from TVS might well have a more reliable box. As their engine management might also have a better running, more efficient and less likely to issues than the factory map.

There are millions of cars now running around Europe with 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.5 TSI engines and some might be getting driven near the red line on long journeys and not siting roadside with seized engines. Just do your regular checks and enjoy the car.

@Diljit you need to not mix the coolant gauge with the oil temp read out. If you get the coolant gauge reading 120*oC with your 1 5tsi then you really have issues. Oil temp will be higher than the coolant temp, the coolant is there to cool the oil. No point making comparisons of a small capacity TSI with a TDI. Apples and pears.

The source of the water getting in needs resolved before any replacing of parts like underlay and carpets are done. If you need a drain plug out to drain water then do that, but it is a car and not a boat in dry dock needing a drain plugs removed. I am on a phone so can not see how new the car might be. Matters not other than if under warranty or not.

@Carlston The OP has a 1.6tdi Monte Carlo so what is the point of going through the history of Fabia and brake sizes ? What car is it you drive and is this in the UK, Is it still a MK1 Fabia estate? Do you fill your Fabia with friends or loved ones and drive like an idiot on the wonderful driving roads where nobody else went out that fine day. Where is this parallel universe in which you drive where a Fabia Monte Carlo with serviced brakes and a remap is cooking the brakes? Just a Sunday drive someplace in Germany with someone in a 220ps Fabia with DSG. Appropriate brake hardware and fluids will be getting used obviously. This member is Smokin!

Welcome to the forum. Are you looking at new, or how old? Must be the 7 speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG (DQ200) you are reading about. That might be with the 1.5 TSI engine. (No real issue when with the 1.0TSI) It only gets fitted to the 150ps or less FWD models. Obviously the issues are few and far between, but best be aware there can be issues. 2.0 TSI / TDI with Wet Clutch DSG's are different & the DSG's oil changes are at 40,000 miles or sooner and need adhered to.

Just not a Yeti with the same tyres as are on the Karoq.

@DiljitThey are modern engines, not decade old V8 petrols. Start to worry when the car warns you and all the other drivers around you in VW engined 1.5 TSI's with the Factory Oil. Look at the Coolant Gauge and if it is getting to the high 90's and going to the red then worry.

The car will warn you. (Just as long as the warnings are not broken. Un-coded maybe because you were messing about touching stuff you do not understand.) If it gets to 170*oC in the UK in the Summer on a track then be sure to come into the pits and open the bonnet and let it cool down. (keep the engine running.) It will cool it's self even if you switch off, that is why the Coolant shows at 90*oC, that is the coolant, and the oil is a coolant, and the fans will run and the pumps pump. If you have the correct oil in and the correct amount and get it to 115*oC at this time of the year in Kent i would be concerned. For you keeping your licence. Maybe your Octavia 1.5 TSI 150 PS will be better with 0w-30 FS in for your trips on the Continent. But then you have a Warranty from the Czech / German car maker, so maybe stick with the recommended VW508 , so 0w 20 FS IV. And have the Servicing done at a VAT Registered place using the Factory Approved Fluids and Parts.

Worth checking out on a car enthusiast forum. Briskoda maybe. http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/309-gap-insurance

Welcome to the forum.

@Carlstonsomeone really needs to be driving very spirited on UK roads if they are overheating their brakes. Driving like a d1ck even. Zooming along and braking into every corner or in the corners and all this while only doing 60 mph ish max. Maybe even doing a lower average speed than someone just driving along singing a song and making good progress. Tracking the car, doing sprints etc might well be different.

You only have to accept it if the cars was not prepped for winter as many are not. Lots of manufacturers vehicles can be issue free, with Skoda it can be a common issue. So many just run the car in winter as they do anytime, Tyre pressures never checked, washer fluid not topped up with strong enough winter screen wash, the coolant / Anti freeze / corrosion inhibitors strength unknown etc.

Here is a current one. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/489497-doors-frozen-shut The others usually are in the threads about Condensation in winter and inside frost on the glass and in most sections of Briskoda every winter..

If the car is not prepped for winter, maybe not yours etc, then pre-icer works good sprayed on the door seals, as pretty messy on the glass. Or night before de-icer. Or normal de-icer sprayed on the seals before the freeze when parking up. Or the silicone spray or whatever. If you need to use hot water to get doors open remember to dry off the seals before they get frozen up again. Or the locks do.

There is no maintenance on the DQ200 DSG, and then with the 1.0tsi there is pre and post GPF,s being fitted. I am on a phone so can not see where you are. Guessing Australia. Maybe worth saying where you are in a post.

The 1.0tsi will be newer so that is a plus and many say stuff about DQ200 DSG,s and hesitations but this is either their driving or maybe some demonstrator or used car that had sat about for a while and needs driven and it will behave just fine unless faulty.

The engines are not run in at the factory before or after going into the car. There is advice on 'Driving in; the new car. (Running in as was always known in English) in the owners manual. Much as it has been for decades. Arse covering advice from Skoda / VW Group.

It certainly does not fill from the bottom until the level reaches the lock. But then the H2O does come in from above and can freeze the lock, as proven by frozen locks. Some pour hot water on the door handle area and defrosts the locks, as has been done for many a long year. (When there are key holes you just have to remember they can freeze again.) Also where there is water that gets down to the bottom seals and some comes out you get doors freezing. Same as with seal at the top of the doors. So prepare the seals for cold weather where the cars design does tend to have doors freezing closed.

@gm73Do you ever have the brake fluid checked for the H2O content?

Briskoda is a good place to advertise. You just need to pay for 'Freedom' and post an ad.

Welcome to the forum. Check the issue of Water being retained in the door of Kamiq's. Maybe you have this issue hence the lock freezing. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/489287-kamiq-driver-door-water-retention EDIT, Sorry, i see you already posted in this thread. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483733-water-retention-in-doors Prepping the doors, and seals for winter is worth doing. & the fuel filler flap. Skoda have known of the issue for decades. They are not bothered about it.

Driving in sleet, snow and rain is when the driver wants to be to try taking as much control as they can of their vehicle allowing for the ESP, TC/ASR etc and not trusting to much of the tech the car has which was designed by someone not in the car with you.