Breezy_Pete

Haynes is not right. 14.3-14.5 when cold, dropping a tenth or two when hot is fine.

Strong fix!

Fling me your VIN in a message.

He knows far less than you do about electronics. I'm lying.

Nope, they're just notoriously unreliable on the 1.6CR engines unfortunately. If you can eyeball the wiring to that injector connection, could be worth checking for wire damage, but I would've thought your mechanic would've spotted any such problem while unplugging/reconnecting.

No gun jumping visible from where I'm sitting.

Could be a wire broken rather than wires shorted. In some positions the broken ends remain touching, in others they're pulled apart? A wire from the ignition switch, for example, could have widespread effects if intermittent. All speculation, but worth a free look before starting to fire up the parts cannon, I think.

Isn't the obvious thing to look for a wire or wires that are being affected by movement of the indicator stalk? Some disassembly of plastic covers may be needed, possibly only the top one? Someone may have been in there previously and not put a wiring loom back correctly, in a way that means it has now been damaged by mechanical movement.

"This story is too good to check" Spoken by a journalist acquaintance of mine.

There's a fair amount of choice of video guides for connector unplugging if you've never done one before. The executive summary is "push connector body towards sensor before trying to release latch". Many latches are broken by those who do not realise this simple technique is required. vw connector removal - YouTube

Thought it would be. There's a progressive hardware failure in the electronics that exhibits more at lower temperatures. I can offer repair by post at much lower cost than replacement. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/

I presume this is a facelift car, with the two-connector window motor module on driver's side?

It's the 360mm fan you have broken, The part number with suffix CS was superseded by the part number suffix EA, before your car was built, so the EA one would seem to be what you need. Secondhand or aftermarket recommended, as Skoda will ask for a breathtaking £327.44 for that item.

How many times have you used the car in total since the new Exide battery was fitted? If not many, I still think the car will adapt itself to the new battery in the same way it learnt about the old one. There is/was a member based in Newport with VCDS on the owner's map of this forum, but they haven't been on here for a few years. Nothing to lose by trying to message though: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/158542-greengolf69/

Whereabouts are you @Buttie? I think someone/anyone with VCDS could solve this for you in a short time.

Held in by a single torx screw I believe, but you may well need to remove the metal bracket that screws through the housing next to it (as seen in the close-up photo of the position in the ebay listing linked previously in other thread). How sure are you that it's faulty? My advice would be to disconnect and inspect the connector before anything else, looking for any sign of corrosion on the contacts or damage to the wiring near the cable entry. Do you know the knack of removing these connectors?

Missing a character, a 0 as the third one - I'd expect 5Q0511115AF

First image in this ebay listing here shows it close up. My marked-up screenshot of one of the other images shows the big picture. Just below/next to the radiator hose connection where the pink arrow is.

Sounds like an unusual failure of the cooler. Maybe investigate prices of a secondhand replacement?

1J0 512 109 Not usually fitted in my experience. £4.25 + VAT each from dealers if you do want.

Yeah, I found that out after they sent me the VIN. I suggested the same strategy of looking at blower motor for any telltale brand label. I didn't know the specifics of access though, so thanks for adding.

Not an issue, and I doubt there is such an update available.

I believe it was a feature that was disabled in software. Probably due to customer anxiety about it reading consistently lower than expected (by those who don't understand the planned undercharging).

5 years ago, it seems:

Yep, the thread I saw most recently was coolant inside ECU connector, traced back to wetness inside CTS connection. Mk1 Fabia I'm fairly sure. Maybe 2 or 3 years ago.