Breezy_Pete

Coolant under pressure can get through a faulty coolant temperature sensor that has become porous @J.R.. Thereafter it is confined within the waterproofing of the connector, except via the gaps between the wire strands of the conductors. Wicks along to other end of wire and through into the connected item at t'other end. Reported more than once on here. I'll try to find an example thread tomorrow if I remember.

Coding or not coding a new battery in will have no effect on whether the car will start and run. The rest of it may be down to the start/stop error not being a battery fault, but something else. I hope you didn't pay the Skoda dealer after that nonsense?

Unusual stock update. I have, I think, one of most 6Y1 and 6Y2 types to suit RHD cars available as exchange units (none for all four windows being electric presently though). In addition, I received a unit a while back that suits a Left Hand Drive Mk1 Fabia, so part number 6Y1959801, with SK240DDLS as the last line on part number label. It's a young unit, manufactured in 2017, and looking very clean and tidy. This isn't much use to me so if someone reading has a LHD Fabia (steering wheel on the left), and a need for one of these, please get in touch. Postage/customs will be slow and expensive if you are not UK based, of course. I've done my usual repairs to it as I've had a unit from 2016 arrive non-working not too long ago, so better to pre-empt failure I think. It would physically fit a RHD Polo/Transporter/Mk2 Fabia/Roomster, but at the very least the switches would work the wrong window, and also in some of those applications up would be down and vice versa, I expect.

Partslink24, subscription only. This one's freely available at the moment though, and up-to-date I think - LLLParts LLL let's you enter a VIN, but it doesn't filter the results accordingly.

I think both central locking control unit and the loom junction where this red/yellow wire splits off from are behind the dash near fuseholder, not in the door. Red/yellow is fed directly by the fuse (38) so it might be interesting to measure voltage at both ends of that fuse in situ if it's one of the nice friendly ones with accessible metal contacts on the top surface?

Maybe compare room temperature pin protrusion of the current one with images in listings for new ones? If the current one's pin looks further in, chances are some of the wax has escaped. If not, maybe no need to replace?

Items 24 and 25 here:

This makes good sense. It's more cost, but I wonder if it's worth replacing the thermostat and associated flange while you're at it, to possibly improve head temperatures if the original isn't opening as early/wide as it oughta? The o-ring that seals the flange to the end of the head may have lost its compliance and fail to reseal if it has been removed, which I assume it has?

Regulator and brushpack are all one part I think, can see part of its Bosch part number in your first pic F00M1232...

How many miles on the car? Could just be brushes worn down too far. Brushpack/regulator generally cheaper than a whole alternator. Alt will have part number and rating pretty clearly written on a label on the back end, I'd expect.

Gosh, you're right, I'm the devil.

Sometimes, but also often a different version of the part entirely. I think the suffix E suits D1S xenon headlights, where the no-suffix version appears to be for H7 standard halogens. Judging by what's written on the labels in some of the above photos.

Nice to see you in full 'auto-offence' mode as usual sep.

Timing case sealant: D 174 003 A2 Sump sealant: D 176 600 A1 Cam carrier sealant D 154 103 A1 F knows why they're all different. That is one sad exhaust valve! Were the other two similar but not so bad?

Ah, I misread, fair play. Sealant numbers in a bit...

I can give you the OE part numbers for the various sealants which will allow cross-reference to aftermarket if you like? What torque plus angle are you aiming to do the crank bolt to? Spec changed at some point, if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

It's body colour, which in this case is blue.

Engine ECU pin number for cruise on your car is #69.

Can you post (or message if you prefer) your VIN so I can check on this for you?

Probably driver's side motor module, message me about a repair or exchange unit if you like.

Just connect the negative charger clip onto the bare metal crimp connection visible here:

Are the front sidelights working?

A brief look at wiring diagrams suggests that fuse 23 is only interior lighting, inc glovebox and boot light. Where have you seen reference to tail lights being on it?

I think this must be a 16-valve AUB code petrol engine, assuming the 100kW in profile is meant to be 100bhp. The 1.4s with MPI on the back of them don't have an EGR valve if I remember right. Did you adapt the engine ECU to the new EGR valve after fitting? May be worth a try if you didn't, but I think excessive EGR flow is a common fault on these and not often really the valve at fault.

The 1K0 part number you mentioned for the motor agrees with what your VIN suggested.