Breezy_Pete

Read your owners manual. I think historically at least, a red warning light, or a flashing yellow/amber one indicates a more serious problem than a solid yellow. How far away is the dealer? Until the reason for the light is known, it's hard to know what the risk is. May well be a member local to you with VCDS who could read the code for a beer token or two.

Message me with VIN.

I found that plate on another page, it's 036 131 281, £2.09 + VAT from Skoda dealer. No doubt they'll have to order in, probably from Germany. Probably worth trying in my opinion. Maybe also block the air path into the valve via the air filter item 27 too, for completeness. Site is partslink24, which you have to pay for. LLL parts is a nice (free) alternative currently though, except it doesn't filter by VIN: LLLParts

It seems like there was actually a genuine part for a blanking gasket at the head end of the system (item 28 here) but unfortunately the table on the right doesn't have an item 28. Could you make something?

Possibly, yes. But as I say, it would be nice to prove it is causing or worsening the problem by completely blocking the gas path into the inlet manifold from it.

It's hard to know what to suggest. You've already replaced so much that I wouldn't like to suggest replacing the EGR without good evidence that it was at fault. It would be nice to be able to blank off the pipe at one end or other, to see if anything changes. Throttle body (cooler) end seems the better bet for this but not sure what the best way to do it would be. Just disconnecting the electrics from the valve won't really change much I think, if leakage past the closed valve is the issue.

Yes, coding is required. Technically you're coding the car to the new battery though. Nothing in a battery to put information into. If you fitted another AGM battery of the same or very similar Ah capacity, the car will sort itself out soon enough though.

Fuse 30 was literally the missing link, apparently.

More chance of a lottery jackpot win.

Is it a BKY with or without an EGR valve?

Yes to replacing the tensioner, doubt the guide rails are too bad. Some would say change the sprockets, but I'd suggest examining first as they may be fine. @Crasher will have done a fair few of these I think, so probably a solid source of advice if he has a minute. 👍 Look forward to hearing of your success in due course.

How odd. Thanks.

Oh, OK; then the engine identification at the top of the printout is wrong. AZQ engine wasn't fitted after the end of 2004 I believe. Limits will still be wildly exceeded even when that is corrected though, I expect.

I'd be surprised if it was possible for an active regen to be initiated with a cold engine.

This is the thing to investigate before anything else. Compression test may be revealing. When were the spark plugs last looked at or replaced? Flexi is after both oxygen sensors so I think I agree that won't be causing trouble, apart from noise. Ideally this would have been in the Mk1 Fabia section, but it's not the end of the world that it's here.

Sounds easy until you realise that that means timing cover and chain has to come off, which means sump off too. PITA, having done one. Never again. Even getting the crank locking tool in in place of the crank sensor can be a right faff, as the alloy oxidises and closes up the hole around it. It being 6 years younger than the one I worked on will help in that regard though, I hope.

Might be worth seeing what whole engines you can find at reasonable prices, if you can DIY fit. They're not very 'take-apart-and-rebuild' friendly these little things, lots of sealant gaskets and other sources of grief.

Fair enough, I just had the impression you two had decided it's definitely an immo problem, and were dismissing any other investigation as pointless. Thing, is, with immo trouble, the car usually starts then cuts out, with an amber warning light (key). This isn't what the OP is telling us, it's a crank-no-start situation (without easy-start), as I've read it? The warning light is shown as being just below the resting (0) position of the speedo needle, side view of car with key.

Item 4? LLLParts Genuine Skoda retail price is eye-widening.

Front brake PR code is rarely if ever on the sticker. Measure, or message me with VIN.

Relay position numbers are all I've been referring to. The numbers on the ends of the relays aren't mentioned in the circuits. Sockets should be marked with numbering. What positions are there relays present on your car? Yes, thick wires to fuel pump are power (blue/white) from relay and ground (brown/violet). Others are for the level gauge.

Can't remember if you've said you hear fuel pump run at ignition on? If not, see if you can get it to run by shorting terminals 2(30) and 8(87) of the fuel pump relay socket.

Fuse 3, 10 Amps rated is necessary for the ECU relay to do its thang. Another one to check. @sepulchravea lightning strike isn't required to cause electrical faults in Skodas, a simple broken or shorted wire is just as capable, and overwhelmingly more likely. Mk1 or Mk2 Fabias with no wiring issues at all are probably extremely rare beasts.

Fuses are often shared by multiple circuits, especially when supplying low current items like relay coils. Please check the ones I've mentioned, it all helps to narrow down why things may not be working.