Breezy_Pete

Clearing fault codes rarely fixes faults. What other ones were there?

It is a petrol engine, right?

Not unless you want to worry that engine oils are just getting too good. Toot will be along before long to (correctly) tell you you don't need to use longlife oil for yearly servicing at those sorts of annual mileages (as long as it's a petrol engine?), and possibly get in a shouting match with another guy about whether 5W40 to 502 00 spec may be better in those circumstances. Brace yourself.

0W30 will get round the engine quicker at a cold start, so is better.

Visit counter or use the phone to call them, offer your VIN number and ask them to tell you which are the correct versions. Then order them on the website.

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I would suggest photographing it and starting a thread on the VCDS and diagnostics subforum. Unless it was a generic 3rd party lead using VCDS Lite software I'd be surprised if it doesn't work. Others will know better though. I have a feeling that it's only 2018- onward cars that need the latest lead??

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I wonder if the info from Skoda UK is any more reliable? Time will tell.

What variant is the old cable? Have you tried it?

@djorous message me with your VIN and I may be able to find out something for you.

Are your reversing lights working?

Go here: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA Click download this file, you'll then see a long list of available pdf downloads Download the second of the two "CFD" (current flow diagrams) files. Search for the engine code within that file to find the relevant wiring The Fuel temp sender is discussed in the file titled "Fabia Fuel Injection 1.9-47kw SDi.pdf" further down the list Glowplugs and their wiring should be referred to in both the fuel injection and CFD documents I think.

Very little danger of that with anything powered from the lighter socket.

Exactly this. You would probably find if you looked into it that the difference in viscosity of one that is in e.g. 5W30 group versus one in the 5W40 group are very small. Just either side of the arbitrary boundary.

12V socket problem unrelated, have you checked the fuse?

By the way, for the repair option, but maybe also replacement option, it's worth considering that it's really very easy to completely dismount the door from the car, to improve access and working position. Check strap comes away with a single XZN-head screw, then there's a 13mm 'nut' at each hinge to undo, then just lift away carefully. The lower (painted) nut is visible in Hawkander's photo above. An assistant to take the weight of it may be handy, especially when refitting.

@freezin no idea what the difference is, possibly just rationalising to fewer variants. I haven't looked in detail, but I think several different options have been condensed down into just two current ones, for just front electric windows (suffix HG) and for all four (HH). You may end up with unused connectors if your car lacks the full range of possible door electrics. If you do opt for whole loom replacement rather than the connector end repair kit that @Hawkander used, I'd be interested in purchasing the old loom that you might otherwise bin. Ta.

That's an abbreviation of the full part number, 971 cut out of the middle. Full number is 5J0971120GP. That was superseded in 2014 by 5J0971120HH, currently £135.72 Inc VAT retail at Skoda. LLL parts, linked in posts above, may well be cheaper even after postage costs.

Radiator fan(s) should also spin up whenever the air conditioning is switched on, which is an easy check in this sort of weather, if the car has A/C and it actually works. When cold air is demanded/supplied, within a short time (depending on ambient temp) the radiator fan or fans should come on continuously at low speed (not that furious/loud). If it/they come on intermittently at high speed (furious/loud), it's generally a good hint that low speed function has failed inside the fan. To test via the thermoswitch wiring, link connections on the loom plug as shown (assuming an A/C equipped car). Thermoswitch usually found 100mm or so above bottom hose connection to radiator. Quite common for wire breakages adjacent to this loom connector, so worth getting eyeballs on it even if you don't do link tests.

@doll321 there appear to be two distinct part numbers depending on whether your car has a Valeo or Denso HVAC system fitted. 5Q0 819 031 in the first case, 5Q0 819 031A in the second. I doubt these are interchangeable otherwise there would just be one part number. Message me with your VIN if you'd like me to try to check which your vehicle needs. All the relevant ETKA pages have the caveat "Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary" in their titles, which might be challenging in the case of a heater matrix, not sure how hard access is.

Do you mean the middle? Max mark is generally near the seam on the spherical tanks. Photo of cold level?

Trouble is, a new alternator probably wouldn't come with a new pulley, so you might end up only discovering that the problem was the pulley after you'd spent unnecessarily on the alternator, and then have to spend even more on a new freewheel pulley (assuming it has one, which I could check for you if you sent me your VIN in a message). Is there maybe enough visibility through the vent slots in the casing to see if internals are spinning when engine is running?

Seems a very low mileage for the alternator itself to have failed. Can you take the aux belt off in order to easily experiment with the freewheel pulley and seeing if it turns the shaft when rotated the normal way. I would say the 11.something voltages you're seeing at the two-pin connector are normal.

I can look it up if you were to message me with your VIN; probably easier!