Breezy_Pete

6q0122051bh. Dealership price would be an off-putting £48.48 + VAT so I'd be tempted by 2nd hand.

Part numbers of hoses are often printed on them, but if access prevents seeing this, you'll need to tell us which engine type the car has, or ideally the VIN.

That 1Z3 on the sticker is nothing to do with it. In my experience front brake PR code is never on the sticker. I use a subscription parts site to look up. Contributions welcome. 😁

Your front brake PR-code is 1ZB. Current part number for genuine pads is 3C0 698 151P.

"Dual sleeve clamp". Measure the outside diameter of the pipes and buy one to suit. Genuine ones seem to rust away prematurely just as much as aftermarket, so no advantage in paying dealership premium prices.

Well done. Check beams are vertically aligned by viewing on a garage door or similar. Lots of cars drive around with one lamp pointing skyward cos they swapped a bulb and didn't completely nail the refitting. Did it myself once, oncoming cars flashing me clued me in.

Well done. ECP's lookup by reg plate is usually very vague. For our Fabia if you put the reg in and search brake discs, the suggestions include two different sizes of front disc and one of rear. The car has drums at the back, and only one size fits the front. So more likely to be wrong than right.

A4 is an inline splice in the loom, where one wire becomes two or more, not a connector as such. All you'd find if you did track it down would be a taped up lump with more wires coming out of one side than t'other. All such 'connections' labelled with numbers inside circles on the circuit diagrams are this type of thing. Well done for finding a workaround.

I believe you may have fitted a 5K0959703A from a 2012 car, not 1K0959703A.

Also on a 2013-ish mk2 Fabia 1.2 12-valve?

@TheClient, the OP dual-posted on this issue, the other thread being here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517425-reduced-oil-pressure-switch-location/ I think you've arrived at the same conclusion.

Or the code isn't on sticker. Message me with VIN if you'd like me to check further.

Just take a cover cap off to see each bulb connector. H4s have 3 connections, H7s just two. Phone camera can often help see in there.

Sounds like a kettlefull of ipse dixit. How much do you know about those requirements, really?

MPG and Cost Calculator and Tracker - Spritmonitor.de

It's not beyond the wit of mankind to produce waterproof enclosures with venting. Random example: IP68 WATERPROOF ENCLOSURE with VENTILATION PLUG - WGV series | PRODUCTS | TAKACHI - Manufacturer of electronics enclosures and industrial enclosures (takachi-enclosure.com)

Doing this will also inhibit the start/stop function I think, but I guess you maybe don't care about that either?

One thing you could try, to prove that the alternator voltage is unrelated, is to disconnect the battery monitor control unit connection at the battery negative post. One of the wires (violet/white, LIN) tells the alternator what is required of it, and if that is disconnected, the alternator should revert to a constant voltage output. See what, if anything changes when you try this. I think that may fix the flickering headlights, which could be a consequence of the alternator trying to keep a particular output voltage whilst the engine rpm is fluctuating in an uncontrolled way.

Probably a broken wire or wires in the passenger front door wiring bellows, between A-pillar and door.

Variable output voltage from the alternator is a normal situation with charging systems for EFB/AGM batteries in recent VW group cars, this isn't the problem. This sounds like the source of the trouble. Your engine was designed to work with both of these systems. If the remapped engine is not working well, you should probably return it to the place that remapped the ECU and ask them to fix their mapping. It's also illegal to remove these systems, but I expect you already new that.

Only surprising if you don't realise that conforming to the correct 50n 00 rating automatically means the oil has suitable cold/warm viscosities. These may vary by a little but as long as the 50n 00 is suitable for your engine and service regime, all will be well.

See if this helps at all, seems a bit vague on the tool and what you do with it.

Have you tried clouting the corner of the door closest to the lock while pressing unlock button?

No, a 'refurbed looms exchange system' was more where I'm heading.

Whole loom or repair kit?Please message me if the former, I'm after a scrap loom.