Breezy_Pete

If you ask us to speculate on what may be the cause, it might be helpful if you answer any questions that could help?

What's the engine code? (alphabetic characters at start of engine number on V5c) Does it have one coilpack per spark-plug, or one module that feeds all four? Seems odd that two individual ones would fail simultaneously (if that's what it has).

Fair enough

Makes life a teeny bit simpler. Take pics as you go if poss, and post here later for others' benefit. A cardboard sheet with an outline of the timing cover drawn on it makes a nice safe storage and position identification of all the many different screws that have to come out.

@Hawthorn654 why the question? Pure curiosity or do you think yours isn't running well?

Note that the timing chain cover has a couple of dowel pins that mean it has to come away horizontally once all bolts are out. Remind me, is this a single or dual cam 1.2?

Probably would want the gasket that goes from cat to front pipe, and possibly the dual sleeve coupler that links front to mid-section of exhaust. That way you can completely remove exhaust front section out the way for sump removal. Coupler is likely to be beyond re-use unless very recent. A (long handled) counter-hold tool for the crank pulley. New bolt for that pulley. Do you have a workshop manual?

This may be a tad overdramatic in this context JR. The wire failing again is unlikely to cause any catastrophe, and many other things may have caused the car to be off the road before then.

Not a bad price, taking efficiency of service and location into account. 👍

No worries. You certainly could get a factory fit towbar on a Mk1 Fabia, the wiring is shown in the circuit diagrams , but whether sold in the UK with "1D1 - with trailer hitch" I have no data on either way. @AnnoyingPentium do you have any info on this in your brochure collection? See here for lots of mk1 useful pdfs: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/

Has PR code 1D0 which is "without trailer hitch".

What's the VIN?

Hehe, just scrolled back up to check what I wrote and noticed an appropriate/comedy typo, still visible in your quoting of my post. "Dearer" instead of "dealer" 😆

You have a message.

I didn't say there was a red engine management light. Wrong side of bed?

Is there not a bolt going into gearbox that has a stud sticking out of its head?

Those foam bits have an important function, not just to prevent debris. Those plus the rubber seal across the top of the scuttle are there to prevent any fumes from the engine bay going directly into the cabin air intake. Of course, there shouldn't normally be any such fumes, but an exhaust leak etc could be quite dangerous to the car's occupants if that could pass easily through into the cabin.

Not standard.

No.

You could, but as I said above, if the issue is the valve leaking when closed, that will make no difference. It would be a good idea to disconnect it while doing blanking experiments though. Or to do just disco first to see if that alone helps, yes.

Yes of course, but that would be heavily dependent on what you consider a reasonable lifetime for a car. Some wouldn't think beyond ten years, some would think 100000 miles is the beginning of the end. Others like me are happy driving around in a twenty year old car with 170k on it. How long do you intend having the car?

Looks like it may be item 11, but unhelpfully not given a size in the table. LLLParts

Did you spot my second sentence above?

Whole new can. They may have deliberately scratched the replacement though, as revenge for lack of trust.

Only thing to consider is that a solar panel, unless with an additional controller of some sort, will not be able to stop charging if/when the battery is full. An intelligent charger will switch off when it detects fullness, in contrast. A low power panel, say 10W or less, is unlikely to do any harm (especially at this time of year) in my opinion, but AGM/EFB batteries in recent start/stop-equipped cars are deliberately kept shy of fully charged by the car's charging control system. Some/most people buy the claim that this is to allow headroom for regenerative charging during braking/overrun, but I think it may be more to do with protecting the battery from overcharge/overheat situations. In a static solar charging situation the battery and engine bay temperature is going to be nice and low though.