Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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I'd go with 13 https://www.tunershop.shop/wheel-bolt-silver-m14x1-5-ball-seat-r13-38mm-for-skoda.html
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Not charging til revved generally means the blue wire to the little two way connector on the alt is broken somewhere.
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I'd be visiting the nearest scrapyard that has a similar car if were you.
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All I can suggest is pull harder. Maybe wrap/tie a rope around the driveshaft and pull from a way away so you can get a better body position?
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Is the outer CV free from the wheel bearing yet? It's not clear to me from that description. Photo?
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Not sure if this helps: LLLParts ? The PR numbers like G0C, G0K are for different gearbox variants, I think. You may have such numbers on the build sticker in the boot.
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Feel free to message me with your VIN if you want to know what brakes/carriers/calipers the car was built with.
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How many other screws are there? Does that area of the airbox lid appear to distort because of the bad thread?
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Probably a failed solder joint on one or more of the pins of the 8-way connector of the instrument cluster board. Reflow with some fresh solder to fix.
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They stopped putting them in the car well before yours was made, I believe. 🙁
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Good effort on the terminals, much improved. 👍 Don't worry about the heat jacket or coding. The latter isn't possible on non-start/stop battery vehicles, the former not really necessary on standard batteries either.
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Was there a clickable link in this email? It sounds spammy at first hearing?
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Just PM'ing something to you, 1 sec.
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The 3B2 part was dropped some time ago, superseded by the 5J2, so yes, the right one to get for your car as long as the current one was/is correct. Prices are before VAT, retail from dealers.
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Will look forward to more real-world non-fanboy commentary on EV usage with the Mini.
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Grommet part number 03F103638? @uwantedme
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But the 280s don't, and that must be what's on this '150', no?
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Was there a loose 8-pin device in the case, fallen off the other side next to the 'burntest' bit?
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Wow, that went 'pop' properly! I thought something like that might be found, but I was hoping it might look a bit more repairable than that does.
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Check it again with a warmed up engine (e.g. at the end of a journey) 2 or 3 minutes after you switch the engine off. Hope to see the level somewhere closer to my green lines here:
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Oh, that's far too high if it's the true level. Did you pull the dipstick out, wipe it clean and then re-insert it, to get that reading? Following this procedure is important.
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Yes, all the oil should be at the bottom of the engine in the sump when it's not running. And you shouldn't be taking off the filler cap when it is. Try to get a better photo of the level on the dipstick.
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It will be very loud all the time, I would say.
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Can't see the oil level on that photo really. That's your auxiliary belt, not timing. Identify the fluid by soaking some into a clean white rag or tissue.
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Did they give you a price? A shade under £360 for genuine. Not sure what you'll find on the aftermarket. Are you sure it's leaking? I share others' doubts. Easy to be swayed by the visual appearance.
