Breezy_Pete

Go here: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA Click download this file, you'll then see a long list of available pdf downloads Download the second of the two "CFD" (current flow diagrams) files. Search for the engine code within that file to find the relevant wiring The Fuel temp sender is discussed in the file titled "Fabia Fuel Injection 1.9-47kw SDi.pdf" further down the list Glowplugs and their wiring should be referred to in both the fuel injection and CFD documents I think.

Very little danger of that with anything powered from the lighter socket.

Exactly this. You would probably find if you looked into it that the difference in viscosity of one that is in e.g. 5W30 group versus one in the 5W40 group are very small. Just either side of the arbitrary boundary.

12V socket problem unrelated, have you checked the fuse?

By the way, for the repair option, but maybe also replacement option, it's worth considering that it's really very easy to completely dismount the door from the car, to improve access and working position. Check strap comes away with a single XZN-head screw, then there's a 13mm 'nut' at each hinge to undo, then just lift away carefully. The lower (painted) nut is visible in Hawkander's photo above. An assistant to take the weight of it may be handy, especially when refitting.

@freezin no idea what the difference is, possibly just rationalising to fewer variants. I haven't looked in detail, but I think several different options have been condensed down into just two current ones, for just front electric windows (suffix HG) and for all four (HH). You may end up with unused connectors if your car lacks the full range of possible door electrics. If you do opt for whole loom replacement rather than the connector end repair kit that @Hawkander used, I'd be interested in purchasing the old loom that you might otherwise bin. Ta.

That's an abbreviation of the full part number, 971 cut out of the middle. Full number is 5J0971120GP. That was superseded in 2014 by 5J0971120HH, currently £135.72 Inc VAT retail at Skoda. LLL parts, linked in posts above, may well be cheaper even after postage costs.

Radiator fan(s) should also spin up whenever the air conditioning is switched on, which is an easy check in this sort of weather, if the car has A/C and it actually works. When cold air is demanded/supplied, within a short time (depending on ambient temp) the radiator fan or fans should come on continuously at low speed (not that furious/loud). If it/they come on intermittently at high speed (furious/loud), it's generally a good hint that low speed function has failed inside the fan. To test via the thermoswitch wiring, link connections on the loom plug as shown (assuming an A/C equipped car). Thermoswitch usually found 100mm or so above bottom hose connection to radiator. Quite common for wire breakages adjacent to this loom connector, so worth getting eyeballs on it even if you don't do link tests.

@doll321 there appear to be two distinct part numbers depending on whether your car has a Valeo or Denso HVAC system fitted. 5Q0 819 031 in the first case, 5Q0 819 031A in the second. I doubt these are interchangeable otherwise there would just be one part number. Message me with your VIN if you'd like me to try to check which your vehicle needs. All the relevant ETKA pages have the caveat "Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary" in their titles, which might be challenging in the case of a heater matrix, not sure how hard access is.

Do you mean the middle? Max mark is generally near the seam on the spherical tanks. Photo of cold level?

Trouble is, a new alternator probably wouldn't come with a new pulley, so you might end up only discovering that the problem was the pulley after you'd spent unnecessarily on the alternator, and then have to spend even more on a new freewheel pulley (assuming it has one, which I could check for you if you sent me your VIN in a message). Is there maybe enough visibility through the vent slots in the casing to see if internals are spinning when engine is running?

Seems a very low mileage for the alternator itself to have failed. Can you take the aux belt off in order to easily experiment with the freewheel pulley and seeing if it turns the shaft when rotated the normal way. I would say the 11.something voltages you're seeing at the two-pin connector are normal.

I can look it up if you were to message me with your VIN; probably easier!

Yep. Unless the control module within the fan could be repaired, which might be an interesting project. I feel I may have seen someone have a go at this with some success, probably on another forum. Odd that it's intermittent though. Do the fans ever seem to kick in full speed unexpectedly while driving, or only ever when the car's off? If you do end up replacing, I might be interested in post-morteming the old fan, so please ask your garage to hang onto it rather than skip it. I'd say it seems to be a fairly rare failure, so a secondhand unit off ebay with perfectly matched part number might be worth a gamble. Is there a part number visible? You could even maybe connect up such a purchase without fully installing it, and see if it does or doesn't misbehave when the car is off before spending on fitting?

The wiring is pretty simple. A thick permanent 12V (black) and earth (brown), then a thinner ignition 12V feed and a 'command' wire (green) from the engine ECU. Only checks I can suggest to try to exclude the fan itself is for wiring breaks near this connector and/or corrosion/ingress signs that might be causing unwanted connectivity or lack of.

Have you inspected the wiring adjacent to, and connector going onto the main fan? Will try to find relevant circuit info in a sec.

Wrong.

The internal resistance of the battery will almost certainly be lower with a larger battery so more current is likely to flow, but not to a degree that would be any problem to anything, in my opinion.

Yes. Letters and numbers in that 11th position are different groups of VINs, possibly different factories, I forget.

Correct. Working from the right hand end of the VIN, compare the last 8 characters of yours with the right-hand 8 in each of those lines. If your number is less than one of them, that page applies to you, if it's bigger than 1 of them, there will be another page with the appropriate chassis number ranges for you. The '-' character seen in those lines replaces the 9th character of the VIN.

If you message me with your VIN I can look it up and see if I get the same as what autodoc are telling you (seems likely).

Someone recently had a case of a freewheeling alternator pulley failing in a way that meant the shaft of the alt was no longer rotating. How many miles has the car done?

As long as it explicitly meets the 505 01 spec, viscosity is completely up to you.

Cabin fuse 4 feeds junction B279, as expected. it also feeds some other things, so I think it would be apparent if it had blown.

The only junction shown in the wiring it the one labelled B279, which the key describes as "Positive connection -3- (15a), in interior wiring harness" [my bolding]. Grey box at top of diagram is the onboard supply control module inside cabin. So both wires should run continuously into cabin, I believe. What colour are yours where they emerge from switch? Diagram suggest they should be black/yellow from fusebox and blue/black to control unit.