Breezy_Pete

Another thing maybe worth checking, if you are happy to take the door card off, is to check whether the door lock connector is installed correctly. It's possible that if the loom was removed to repair it, it may not have been plugged back into the lock. I must admit, I wouldn't expect this to affect the fob-triggered locking/unlocking of other doors though. On mk2 I believe there's a fabric (plastic?) patch that can be peeled back at the top corner of the door to give access to the lock connection.

Have you got a multimeter you could use to check that the visible metal strips on the top of the fuse are both at 12V?

Should be top row, 4th from right of the full size blades, in my head? Edit: Yep, can see the numbers now I'm on a big screen

Leave the shocks as well, bet they still work fine.

Ask for it, see what they say?

Yes, on your car car the control module that does the central locking is the central convenience unit, known as J393 in wiring documents, and module #46 in VCDS. It would be nice to try to connect to that with VCDS, not sure what type of reader was used to see the 'No communication' reported by your mechanic? Any chance of a photo showing the fuse 45 location that you've checked? It's been known for the owners manual to mislead via images of left hand drive fusebox which may have different orientation.

Have you got a spare fob and if so have you tried that?

And they didn't even manage to check the horn, despite it being one of the few things on the list! 😆

I think I can just about see the absence of such a 'fancy' pulley in that video, but a pic of the end of the shaft in the alt pulley would confirm either way. Must get around to fitting the one I bought, now that you mention it JR. 😁 Ours did more than twice that before having any significant issues, so hopefully nothing major.

Ta. @CanadianClimber, I guess if you can't lock all the doors via C/L at the moment you can't double-press unlock to see if the other doors unlock? So maybe they would; if you see what I mean? I guess you can manually lock the passenger front door with the button from inside though, then try? I guess the rear doors don't have buttons? Are the windows currently working reliably?

Good

How many miles has it done?

@killysprint does your car have radio remote central locking, or just key-operated? The fact that it doesn't work via the fob on the OP's car makes me think it can't be just the driver's door loom, as I think the other doors would still lock/unlock with the fob if it were?

Yep

Photograph the aux belt routing, then take it off and run the engine briefly from cold without it. See if noise is still present. I suspect it may not be. Coolant won't be circulating, so don't run it for more than a minute or two.

Always easier when it's happened to oneself. There is a repair option with an external resistor and no need to replace the fan, if it does turn out to be the fan itself, not everyone's cup of tea though. See: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/404143-radiator-fan-repair-courtesy-of-vortex-here-and-uk-mkiv-forum/

First thing to do is to check the fuse for the low speed fan function. I don't seem to have mk3 Fabia circuit info, but the owners handbook mentions two engine-bay fuses relating to radiator fan, one large one, #1 and a smaller one, #18. the latter would be my best guess at the relevant fuse, but it seems to do other things as well, so I doubt it's blown. If that is OK, you could double-check the low-speed fan function by shorting pins of the radiator thermoswitch loom connector which is usually a few centimetres above the lower radiator hose connection on the rad. I would imagine the pinout is the same as on earlier generations of Fabia, in which case this diagram will tell you what to do: Check that the wire going to pin 1 is brown, before proceeding to link 1 & 2, which should bring on the fan at low speed, if working. There is a slight possibility that the fan control unit is to blame, rather than the fan itself, but I think it's very unlikely. It's not only the temperature of the engine coolant that can trigger fan activity, the pressure level of the A/C refrigerant is also monitored whenever it's switched on. Generally, unless ambient temps are extremely high, running the A/C will bring the fan on at low speed only, but if that fails, the pressure will continue to rise until the threshold for full speed fan activity is breached. That's what I think you are currently experiencing.

I think your radiator fan has a broken low speed. I can take you through a test using a wire link, once I've finished my sausages and mash.

Does it not happen if you switch off the air conditioning?

I'd expect VCDS Lite, the freeware version, to work on a 2006 Roomster, and to do those things, if you have a suitable KKL cable and a laptop to put the software on. Not sure about OBD11, sorry.

It's possible, but I would want to be sure that the problem isn't residual from the loom change before spending anything on parts. Do you have written info on what new loom part number was fitted, and can you share the vehicle VIN with me (by PM if preferred) so I can cross-check what should be there, please? There are several loom variants.

Check fuse 45 in the cabin fusebox. (15 Amp rated)

Having looked again at your photos on a big screen, and with judicious enlargement, two things are apparent. JR is quite right about the oil contamination being widespread enough to be affecting the slip-ring to carbon brush connections, thus cleaning those areas up may be all that's required. If you do opt to replace it instead, the part number to match is also conveniently just visible, 03D903025J. They are generally very reliable and long lasting, so secondhand genuine from ebay are probably often better value than new aftermarket copies.

Never thought of that 👍

Under-tightening with consequent movement in the joint and either self-removal or fatigue failure of the screws makes the most sense.