Breezy_Pete

Your logic was correct. Easier to get it right if holding track rod and lock nut still while unscrewing TRE, cos then it is anticlockwise as viewed from where you are. (Assuming outboard of everything is where you are). If you held the track rod by the flats on it, while trying to shift the nut inwards along it, you would see that as clockwise if sitting outboard of everything.

Have you seen where it's located? If it's the EA189 engine family, they're not exactly in a position to make anything 'simple'.

Except... Which bit are you holding still and which bit are you trying to shift? Leaving the lock nut stuck where it is, and attempting to unscrew the TRE off it may be easier than trying to move the lock nut inward along the track rod?

Any progress today? Hotter heat and longer levers is about all I can suggest.

Spoons presumably.

Try pulling the key just a teeny bit outward, like a millimetre, then try to turn it.

I believe that if you register a VIN at skoda-parts.com you can subsequently be offered only parts that suit that VIN. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounds handy if it works. Give it a try. Typically the info on the boot sticker only gives rear brake PR code, not front.

Dunno, but probably yes. In the cabin somewhere rather than in engine bay.

Confirm 100% that the correct fuse was looked at. Fit a new fuse yourself, if it wasn't you that previously checked it.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

Probably just refrigerant shortage, but that may be the result of a leak. A good refill place should find a leak if there is one, and cannot refill it if they know it is leaking.

How do you judge that the timing belt is due? VW group in UK dropped their 5 year interval in 2023, to align with recommendations for everywhere else.

That is the airbag control unit part number, and it is correct for your car. partslink24 also has the "T2C" string seen in the Component field of your screenshot, as a further suffix after the 'K'. Shown as "6R0 959 655 K T2C" I would suggest that this is the original unit, but can't be certain. Before you ask, I have no idea about coding, or what T2C means, or anything much at all about airbag systems, sorry.

Massage me with the VIN. 🙂

Hard to tell from the pics, too much rust on the wheel bearing housing to see much clearly. In some of the pics, it looks like the internal spline is damaged, but that must surely be a trick of the light. I did one recently on a new, pre-heated bearing housing, and I felt it arrive more than heard it. Still took a bit of grunt to pull it in, but there was a definite "that's not going any further whatsoever" feel when it arrived. Not sure if I took any pics, will have a look.

Not sure where you can get factory service manual since erWin stopped being helpful to non-business users. Mk2 Fabia Haynes info will have very large overlap with Roomster.

Go aftermarket for new ones, as suggested above, will come with nuts.

Recently purchased genuine one (comes minus all the nuts!) No sign of welds, I must've dreamt those. Not sure how they're retained TBH. Yours look different, I think? Maybe earlier versions did have the welds.

Think the heads are welded in, so will not be easy at all to completely remove. I have a new one in the garage I can photograph in a bit.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RO/481/4/407/407011 Were/are the bolts not captive on what you have? Any chance you were trying to turn the nuts the wrong way? (Captive bolts point downwards, so tool has to turn clockwise to undo the nuts if viewed from above wishbone, as may be the case on driveway). Photo of current state of things?

The window motors have no comms with any other modules (by design). They chat only between themselves. Don't think that scan result is related to window problem.

I guess you mean this dude, just near offside drive flange? That's a dummy vehicle speed sensor that was where the vehicle speed speed sensor was fitted prior to ABS sensors taking over (around 2002 I think). Not the same as an engine speed sensor, which is more often known as a crank, or crank angle sensor.

Crank sensor is horrible to access and replace - back of engine block below intake manifold right at gearbox end. Will add a photo shorty. If it was me I'd be looking to eliminate other possible causes of the behaviour, and not just trusting that the fault code means sensor fault. Clutch switch malfunction, or air leaks - brake servo vacuum hose always worth checking thoroughly, visually and with fingertips. Often cracks are found at junctions of hard plastic sections.