Skip to content

Breezy_Pete

Sponsor
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. What year is the car and which engine type does it have?
  2. Yes, the metal casing. Remove electronics first, by defeating the 6 plastic clips with toothpicks or similar. Then undo 4x torx screws, carefully pull out metal housing with rotor and brushpack all together. Pull brushes outward off commutator and spin the brushpack 180° relative to metal housing. Reassembly in reverse order. 6Y1 label will now face the opposite way, and the permanent magnets within the metal housing will be oppositely oriented. Better not to pull the rotor out of the metal casing as the bearing at the closed end can be tricky to realign the shaft into.
  3. Just noticed on the parts diagrams that the Koyo system shows sealing washers for this part that are described as 16mm, TRW system shows ones with 14mm seals. So your system is LHD SMI Koyo, and your expansion hose part number is part number 6Q1 423 893 M (dropped May 2023, superseded to 6Q1 423 893H). Note for UK/RHD car owners. Part numbers for RHD systems are different to what's shown above. Third character is 2 instead of 1, and suffixes will differ too. All UK/RHD systems are TRW as far as I know.
  4. There were two different systems made by different manufacturers. You need the right parts according to which system you have. The only difference in the part numbers is the suffix letter, which is important. You have written only the base part number. I will message you asking for your VIN, which will allow me to look up which system you have, and so which is the correct, full part number.
  5. Yes, very likely.
  6. No further trouble with alarm, roof blinds were gaffer-taped together for a while. Now fixed a little better, but still a bit bodgily with hotmelt glue fixing the four magnets in their correct orientation. Front two shown here: This has had the extremely welcome bonus of eliminating a very irritating buzzing/rattling that seems to have been the result of these magnets being loose under their plastic rivet fasteners. This has made me very happy.
  7. That would work (if it isn't faulty), but up and down would be reversed relative to switch movements. Can be swapped back by rotating the metal motor housing 180°.
  8. A lot of difference there, which did you use, and why?
  9. @enoktakenokta , have you seen this? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434028-tire-pressure-monitoring-system/
  10. Hissing is often an indication of low refrigerant quantity.
  11. Any work done recently on gearbox or clutch?
  12. 17911 will certainly be a broken wire one side or other of the black 2-way connector pair on the bracket near starter motor. Access from beneath. That doesn't tend to put fault lights on other than ASR warning light 10 mins after startup, where fitted. Fuel temp sender is at front of engine, high up, I seem to remember.
  13. Yes, you need the right type of o-ring. No, you shouldn't lose any significant amount of refrigerant when changing the seal/sensor, there's a valve under it that closes as it is removed. PAG oil for lube. If it's the original pressure sensor it could easily be leaking through itself, rather than at the o-ring seal, I suspect.
  14. Not sure. Something on the LIN bus causing trouble? What were the part numbers of the replacement sensors? Did Skoda look them up via your VIN?
  15. They are probably referring to earlier, non-LIN version of the sensors. LIN sits at a high level when no data is being transferred, I believe.
  16. Pin 2 is a LIN bus connection; why do you think it should be at 0.5V?
  17. Did those include fuse 34, a 7.5 Amp ignition switched one?
  18. Loving the way these pics went together on my phone: Unexpected footwear for a pheasant!
  19. I'll message you later (this evening) to ask privately for VIN.
  20. Yes, that's probably a good description of the driving feel.
  21. The previous log I made is attached. Not sure if it's any use. I did try to plot it using something that someone linked to above I think, but can't find that graph. LOG-01-IDE00021_&4 - Copy.CSV If someone can make any use of it, or tell me anything from it, I'll be delighted.
  22. If that's driver's door, which it looks like, then you have the wrong part number fitted there. You have 6Y2959801, SK240PDRS, which is a passenger side module from a mk1 Fabia. It should be 6Y1959801, SK250DDRS. That's why everything is behaving strangely. They're not interchangeable even though it physically fits.
  23. Just north of Swindon. I can share wiring diagrams with you, but need to know if it is a 6Y1959801 part number motor, or 6Q1959801F which came next, late in 2007 or early 2008.
  24. The 10 minute operation followed by sleeping is what is supposed to happen after ignition is switched off, provided that doors sre kept shut. This suggests that that the 'ignition on' feed from fuse 11 to the black/blue wire on the smaller plug (assuming 6Y1959801 module part type) is not being correctly maintained for some reason. I wonder if the loom repair has crossed over a couple of similar-coloured wires? Measure this black/blue feed for 12V relative to the thick brown wire in the other connector with ignition on. Or bring the car to Highworth and I should be able to figure it out for you.
  25. Yep Test with whatever you have available 🙂

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.