Breezy_Pete

Same fuse as front one, fuse 40.

Pins 3 and 4 of black 6-pin connector at A-pillars is where I'm seeing A146, A147 in circuit diagrams. Other thing you may have to add is power wiring for windows, pins 1 and 2 of the black 4-way connectors at A-pillars, from fuses and earth points. Can't you just chop it in for a Fabia that already has all this? They're not exactly scarce.

I know there won't be any CAN wiring in your door loom, but it may get as far as the car half of the A-pillar connections, if you're lucky. That's what I'm suggesting you look for. If it's there, there will be pins in the appropriate spots of the connector, if not there won't be. All the CAN wiring in the cabin loom will be 'bound into' the loom in the car body, I expect, but there will be splice points, (the A146, A147) where all the 'Convenience CAN' pairs split off to their respective control units (such as A/C). This is likely to be near to the onboard supply control unit (J519) which also houses the CAN gateway, headquarters of the CAN system. That unit is above accelerator pedal on RHD cars. You will have to run twisted pairs of wires from these points to each car-side A-pillar connector, and fit the appropriate pins, if they aren't already present. Will be a pain, but those whole connector multi-blocks will come out of the A-pillars outward for access. Door removal is dead easy and the job will be near-impossible without this, I think.

Antenna is within the central convenience module (J393). The conversion to remote C/L only needs swap of suffix H unit to suffix E, I think, no wiring changes. There's a good how-to thread on clubpolo that I must've linked to on here. Did you have a look for CAN wires at A-pillar yet?

Link?

A significant disadvantage of autodoc and its other companies masquerading as UK based with .co.uk addresses. Fine when the right parts are offered and delivered, PITA when not. Part number is very likely to be printed on your current struts. Use that - exactly, suffixes and all - to attempt to find aftermarket matches, autodoc may also be wrong about non-availability.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose for splits or cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections?

You just clean what you can without moving the butterfly, which is 98% of it. They don't sit fully closed when unpowered if I remember right. So far I don't know which engine type you have, so it's hard to know specifics.

Buy a secondhand one as they rarely fail. Match the entire part number including letter suffix.

Tell them that knock sensors and the ECU hardware and software that interacts with them react in fractions of a second, so their argument is utter tosh.

I haven't had much experience of the earlier, CAN-based set-up, but I can try to help. Not sure if manual window cars will have the CAN wiring pair going to each car-side A-pillar connector, presence/absence of the pins may be visible by phone camera if not by eye. I'm on the road today, but may have some time to look at wiring info later, or you could download it yourself from the available list here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/

Ours did a spurious alarm recently, that we think was actually probably a genuine trigger of the internal monitoring system by one of the roof blinds 'opening itself'. If yours have a tendency to not always stay shut, the same event may have caused yours. Steeply sloping driveway might increase chances of a blind overcoming the little magnetic latches? To disable alarm, I believe the best way may be to remove it from the 'installation list' of modules fitted, using VCDS. No physical changes would then be required. Haven't tried this myself though.

One of the screws isn't possible to get 'square onto' with bearing/hub in place, so a bugger to do anything with once corrosion has taken its toll on the head.

Red ring is the pivot that is often seized. Pink arrows show the movement which should be free and easy. Green arrows shows the adjuster which Alasdair mentioned.

You might be able to free it up if you take that drum off, disconnect cable from that plate then rotate it back and forth to break corrosion. Add a few drops of oil to the pivot/rivet, between the plates. Loosening the cable adjustment in the cabin by quite a lot is a big help when trying to remove drum. Retighten when work is done.

The top end pivot will be seized on the plate of steel in the drum that the handbrake cable attaches to.

Unfortunately I don't have recent enough circuit diagrams for Superb to cover this engine code.

I had to have a hole welded a couple of years back. Rear of sill is close to mounting of rear beam. This (actually part of front wing) has been slowly worsening for a while. Went through MOT a few weeks back without mention. 🙂

Will try to look for circuit info this evening.

It could also be voltage related. Warm engine implies recent charging, cold engine implies the opposite. There are about four other devices powered from the same fuse I believe, but would need your engine code to check properly. Maybe one of those other devices is pulling too much current, and causing the whole voltage supply from that fuse to dip too low during a cold start, or something like that.

Car was MOT'd this morning. Passed with no advisories. 😁

How many seconds was there between step 2 and 3? If only a very short time, try repeating test but leave 60 seconds between ignition off and back on again. See if same outcome.

First one, ending E. There have been some superseding numbers but they usually quote all that match on the aftermarket.

Gen2 bearing type that needs special tooling to make sure you don't press on the hub face when installing. Search youtube for demo vids with tooling examples.

Perhaps time for them to try another valve replacement.