Breezy_Pete

Hi Paul, I'll message you anyway, but you may be able to sort this for yourself, if you are feeling a little brave. As you've found, disassembling some of these more recent types of motor carries a risk of brush damage if things don't move quite in the right sequence, but since you have one to play with and not much to lose... The rotational direction for a given electrical input can often be changed on designs similar to these, because the steel rotor housing has a pair of permanent magnets stuck to its inside top and bottom faces. If the housing has no keying that prevents it being spun 180° relative to the rest of the assembly; if you do so the magnetic field direction will be opposite, and rotation reversed/corrected. Seat appear to use a different mounting arrangement, with software changes relative to the Skoda versions that make them incompatible, despite same hardware part number. Same thing happens with Skoda versus VW variants of same part number in some previous generations of motors, on the 6Y...part numbers the housings can be spun to correct things, but the next ones, 6Q1... (and 6R0.. I think) are keyed, preventing this fix without metal or plastic alterations. I'm not familiar with this generation of motors so I can't really advise on whether this is possible or not; the previous couple of versions did have keyed metalwork so that it could only fit on one way. Just go very gently with everything if you do decide to get involved.

@hymek said in his last post that the shoes and cylinders were only replaced a month ago. Perhaps something that would have been sensible to mention in the opening post?

That would be on a LHD car, the default for workshop instructions.

Isn't it a bayonet fitting same as the cap, so twist anticlockwise to remove filler neck?

Yes, give it a try.

5Q0 411 105 HE RRP is £128 + VAT each. Wonder what Skoda pay their suppliers for them?

Yep, message me the VIN. 🙂

This shows five different gearbox codes used with AWY or BMD (1.2 40kW) engines through mk1 production years. Any of them should be suited to your car, I believe. Searching ebay (or asking a scrappie) for e.g. "GSH gearbox" should provide hits, though I haven't tried that specific search as yet.

As mentioned in PM, car built in sept 2010, with CGPA, 12-valve version of the HTP engine. Cam sensor wiring looks like this: G40 being cam sensor, J623 being the engine ECU. The rectangle with 70 inside it shows (on another page) that this earth joins a few others, and terminates at ECU pin 54. You should be able to measure a solid 5V between pins 1 and 3 of the connector when ignition is on. Looking for any wiring damage, anywhere between 3-pin connector at cam sensor on top of valve cover, and ECU on firewall, would be my approach, though easier said than done for most of the wiring run.

Probably/almost certainly the wheel cylinder has developed a leak at one of its piston seals, and the leaked fluid has come through to there as well as leaking inside drum. Drum removal needed for inspection and rectification. Near zero chance that the brake pipe has mysteriously loosened itself.

If the build sticker is still present and readable near/in the spare wheel well, it will have transmission code on the same line as engine code, I think. Post a photo if you find it but aren't sure what you're looking at.

33 x 4mm Part number WHT 003 865 from Skoda, recommended to retail at £10.25 + VAT in UK.

OK, if the scan screenshot above is showing the correct engine code at the top (BBM), then you have the 6-valve single cam engine, which surprises me slightly in an estate version, I thought in the mk1 at least they got the slightly more powerful variant. I'll start a PM conversation with you so that you can share the VIN with me securely. Then I can confirm engine coide/type and also the build date. Both of these are really necessary to get the most accurate wiring info.

Looks like those two wires may be the loudspeaker on the door. May or may not be important to you.

Will try to look up what those other wires do tomorrow some time. The wires break because that section of the door loom has to bend back and forth each time the door opens. Mk1 Fabia had a much better design where the bellows has a vertical dogleg, meaning that there's a combination of movements including twisting, which is less harsh on the wires. Almost everything Skoda have made since then seems to just take the shortest route straight across, and they all seem to suffer from premature loom failure as a result.

The bit of the car that the front door hinges bolt onto.

Check for broken wires in driver's door bellows. Specifically a grey/white wire into pin 5 of the 28-way connector at A-pillar.

Right answer. 🙂

Were the bolts dry or lubed?

You say with engine running it's charging at 14.62V, are you able to check that while on the move? If you really do have a start/stop battery in, and tge car coded correctly for it, that voltage should fluctuate, a lot, while driving.

I'm not convinced that is the original battery. I'll start a private chat with you to request VIN. Cheers.

I'll try to give you some tips on checking cam sensor wiring later, cos that code suggests an electrical/wiring/contact problem more than a mechanical one, I think.

Always try to leave it in a gear that means if the handbrake does slip a little, it turns the engine the normal way, not backwards. So if you're nose down the slope, leave it in 1st. If the engine is turned tge wrong way, it tends to squeeze residual oil out of the hydraulic chain tensioner, making a chain jump more likely when next started.

Message sent.

By the way, you say It does, throughout most of the modules. It's the primary communication system. Pretty much everything "intelligent" except the window motors use CAN to talk to one another. But diagnostics is via K-line, even though CAN wiring is present at the diagnostic socket. Someone with better VCDS knowledge like @PetrolDave may be able to explain that to us.