Breezy_Pete

Change engine oil and filter very regularly. Make sure the cooling system (thermostat and engine temp sensor) and radiator fan (both speeds) are in full working order. Fix any coolant leaks (radiator thermoswitch likely). Buy a handheld scan tool that can read Skoda/VW fault codes. Buy a spare coilpack and practice changing them so you can do it easily at roadside. Carry scan tool and spare coilpack in the glovebox. Check spark plugs condition and gaps, and replace air filter with a new genuine one unless it looks new already (from both sides). Check brake servo vacuum hose for crack damage at the one-way valve over to the right of the firewall (as seen looking into engine bay from front bumper). Check PCV valve output hose connection at each end of the 'loop' for looseness/leaks/perishing. Repair as required. For daily driver reliability, that would be my plan. For performance increase, probably best to spend your money on good tyres and fixing any braking or suspension faults rather than trying to get more out of the engine; that's just likely to kill it faster. No more power is available above about 4400rpm on the 6-valve 1.2, so looking for it beyond there is futile.

I think you'll struggle with that. Vehicle speed signal will be a CAN message from the ABS module to any interested fellow modules. RPM similar from engine ecu, though you could maybe take it raw from the crank sensor, but not sure how. Throttle signal, not sure whether that would be throttle pedal or throttle position, water temp will again be a CAN message from engine ECU to other modules. I think things may have moved on too far since that was designed, unless I'm misunderstanding.

Haven't found an MSDS for G12 evo yet.

OK, so the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the two say that both are principally still ethylene glycol (ethane-1,2-diol in modern chemical parlance), but G13 does have a proportion (10-30%) of glycerin too. G13: G12++: Interesting that the exact proportions of ingredients can be kept vague.

It was 2013 it came in according to here: Wolflubes - The Vital Lubricant - Blog - What you need to know about G13 antifreeze and coolant Seems ambiguous to me whether it ends up as 'glycerin based' or just starts out that way. Title fixed thanks to @DeanVRS20VT

September 2013 apparently, "one of the earliest Mk7 Golfs". He'll check what coolant type it says on the bottle tomorrow.

G12++ isn't the same as G12 evo (as far as I know), it was the last version before G13. I can't remember what year my workmate's car is, just asking him on whatsapp.

On topic, is it definitely only cars that were factory-filled with G13 that have the silicate in the expansion tank? A workmate of mine has a car that has the silicate and is old enough to pre-date G13, I think I read somewhere, I think, that G13 is the same as G12++, just made in a different way, starting with different, less ecologically damaging chemicals. Does anyone know if this is true?

I will see if a moderator/admin can adjust it for you.

The English term is coolant. Refrigerant is what goes in the air conditioning system. Interesting topic though, thanks for posting.

if you do a search in here for 'dashcam wiring' you'll likely find lots and lots of threads asking about that.

Front socket is #35, I think, next row down, 4th from right. Both cabin sockets might be on #35. 12V socket in boot would be #26, I think.

First pic, 4th row down, 5th from right side.

You'll find a part number somewhere on the damaged connector body if you look closely. Might need a magnifying glass or take a good photo and put it on a big screen.

Perfectly safe, just be aware that some oil is going to leak out of it.

Item 31 here https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/8/837-837000/ Or item 30 if there's no sign of a light source or coin cell holder.

Yes, bypass the cooler.

Clutch pedal depressed is the only time the release bearing is involved in anything, isn't it?

Hi Martyn, can you post a photo of the affected area? I'd be surprised if a radiator didn't last at least 10 years, unless it suffers impact damage.

Give fuse 6 a gentle prod in the middle, if it's cracked it'll break.

Strip fuse 6 is the ABS one on your car. It's only later cars where it moved to position 4. Check the alternator signal wiring at the bracket on the gearbox as that may be why ASR warning light has been blanked off.

Could be that the throttle is stuck shut, not allowing any air into the engine. Maybe try giving item 32 here a clout to dislodge it? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/1/129-129060/ Don't suppose you have any tools with you?

The other one is the same part number. Shame I didn't ask about the fault code specifics earlier, would've saved a bunch of messing about. That G83 one's much easier to find and access.

From your description, @Nexus21, the one you've found is item 28 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2010-663/1/121-121027/ Which is a second sensor, according to the wiring diagrams. Instead of being called G62, Coolant temperature sensor; I think the one you've found is called G83, Coolant temperature sensor at radiator outlet. Which did the fault code point to? What is the fault code number?

Photo?