Breezy_Pete

Buy up the cheapest secondhand cluster of same part number you can find. Learn how things come apart on that one and salvage the relevant motor. Then remove dodgy one from your cluster...

I think you would have to change most of the equipment behind the dashboard, and wiring looms to make this work. Big, big task. Compare some of the part numbers between these two diagrams; many differences: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/8/820-820010/ https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/8/820-820020/

It is, I just looked it up.

Do you know what diameter the discs are? There are probably a few different brake setups to choose between when looking for these screws. (I think you are not referring to the disc retaining screw as the above posters seem to have interpreted?) I expect they are probably fine to re-use as you describe, but let's clarify exactly which screws first.

This generally happens if the ignition is switched on whilst the airbag is disconnected. Needs VCDS to clear the fault I believe.

@J.R. pop back to page 2 where you asked about this and he answered a fortnight ago.

When you remove the rear bolt holding the dogbone engine mount to the subframe DON'T get it mixed in with a load of other bolts. It is (just) a few mm shorter than some gearbox-to-engine bolts of the same thread. If you put one of those slightly longer bolts back in that position instead of the correct one, you'll hit the underside of the steering rack with it, denting the rack and writing it off. If you can get any PlusGas on (the top end of) that bolt before trying to remove it, you may reduce the risk of the captive nut breaking away. That can happen if it's never been off before, since the exposed thread at the end of the bolt rusts. Access is awkward to spray it though.

Find a local person with registered Lite, or full VCDS; preferably one with experience of doing this coding (not me). They might do it for £20 or a touch more, maybe. Must be loads around London.

Such a rare thing to need to replace that I'd be surprised if there were many alternatives to buying genuine? Just make sure you get exactly the right one; probably a part number up at the top somewhere. (Assuming the broken off top bit wasn't lost?)

Fit a new fuse in position 36 to rule out the possibility that the existing one 'seems OK' but isn't. Refer to the attached for the physical locations in RHD car. Mk1 Fabia Cabin Fuses.pdf

It doesn't look exactly the same fitting anyway, when I look carefully at your picture and the ones in the link. I think.

No. Sorry. What about this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224012489303 ? Not the same now that I look at the pictures carefully.

Struts=front dampers so they've been done too by the sound of it.

Console bushes are the ones that the back end of each wishbone goes into (Front wiishbone, rear bush would be another description, but in this case the bush isn't fitted in the wishbone like they usually are on most designs). The original rubber design was poor, and if by some chance yours still has its originals fitted, they may well be allowing a lot more movement than they should, which will affect the dynamic wheel alignment a fair bit, and so the handling.. MOT doesn't check wheel alignment, but it does check suspension bushes for excessive movement, so should be picked up.

Do it. One of the best tool purchases I've ever made. It sounds to me like you have no reason to be anxious about the outcome of your work.

Perhaps the OP was interested? He did speculate on the material not long ago, remember...? Oh, and Teflon isn't Nylon 6.6, I'm pretty sure.

Front bumper off, which is surprisingly easy.

Technically, the top bolts, and the bottom bolt and nut are all single use; as far as I recall. I'd use a modicum of 'condition based' judgement on all.

Any history of the console bushes having been changed?

I followed a 70-plate one down the A34 for a while earlier, thinking "presumably everyone calls these Skodiaks", but a search on this site only brought up posts by you, which surprised me a tad.

I've just dug out the other rail, the 'tight side' one and there's barely any wear at all on it, I guess because there's no equivalent single point where any side force is applied, unlike the tensioner rail. Just a little bit of wear right at the top. The revised version, as fitted in the other photo is a shade longer, possibly to avoid this 'rattle zone'? This rail looks to be the same material as the chain-touching insert in the other one, judging by the colour of the two new ones, and has a material ID of >PA 46< * *"Stanyl" apparently. Wonder if that was created by Stan? https://plasticsfinder.com/en/application/Valve Train/4GZJv

Sounds interesting. Don't suppose you've got access to VCDS to do some logging? (MAP reading, EGR activity, misfire counters, that kinda thing). I could run mine at same engine speed and compare. I'd check the usual suspects like brake servo vacuum line for leaks, and the EGR feed pipe into the inlet manifold for blockage, along with a throttle body clean. I vaguely remember that EGR action starts to happen at this rpm, on this engine. Manual or automatic gearbox?

^ Good spot. The rear bumpstops on mk1 Fabias are renowned for falling to bits, which then drops the dust cover off downwards.

MOT doesn't care whether or not your engine is in peril. It probably isn't either, as inspection of cambelt is not part of the MOT test, and it may or may not have been even looked at during any service you may have had at the same time. Get it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion.

Are you quite mad, sir?!