Breezy_Pete

Part number seems correct as shown here, and the description matches the position you want.

That is a shame. I would have thought "four out of five good threads is probably plenty" 😁

@davegr I'm with you.

Above accelerator pedal on RHD car. Lower dash trim has to come out for access on mk1. Much easier to scan than to eyeball physically.

Only if it was specified at time of order from factory, I expect.

With your scan tool, if you can, scan module 09 'central electrics' or even better, look at live data from it, particularly voltages on terminal 15 and terminal 30.

On the strut turret right beside ECU, just above ABS module.

Basically this, but it works even better if you push the connector (as if plugging it in rather than trying to remove), while undoing the latch. Once you hear the latch click open, then pull connector off

Wildly unlikely to be anything to do with the engine ECU, in my opinion. Wish I had an idea what it might be instead.

Engine ECU of both BMD and BME engine codes of 1.2 HTP in 2007 have no permanent 12V power connection, so disconnecting battery and/or the ECU connectors will have no more effect than simply switching the car off and removing ignition key does.

Have you cleared the fault codes and found that they come back? May just be stored/historical.

Hi Paul, I'll message you anyway, but you may be able to sort this for yourself, if you are feeling a little brave. As you've found, disassembling some of these more recent types of motor carries a risk of brush damage if things don't move quite in the right sequence, but since you have one to play with and not much to lose... The rotational direction for a given electrical input can often be changed on designs similar to these, because the steel rotor housing has a pair of permanent magnets stuck to its inside top and bottom faces. If the housing has no keying that prevents it being spun 180° relative to the rest of the assembly; if you do so the magnetic field direction will be opposite, and rotation reversed/corrected. Seat appear to use a different mounting arrangement, with software changes relative to the Skoda versions that make them incompatible, despite same hardware part number. Same thing happens with Skoda versus VW variants of same part number in some previous generations of motors, on the 6Y...part numbers the housings can be spun to correct things, but the next ones, 6Q1... (and 6R0.. I think) are keyed, preventing this fix without metal or plastic alterations. I'm not familiar with this generation of motors so I can't really advise on whether this is possible or not; the previous couple of versions did have keyed metalwork so that it could only fit on one way. Just go very gently with everything if you do decide to get involved.

@hymek said in his last post that the shoes and cylinders were only replaced a month ago. Perhaps something that would have been sensible to mention in the opening post?

That would be on a LHD car, the default for workshop instructions.

Isn't it a bayonet fitting same as the cap, so twist anticlockwise to remove filler neck?

Yes, give it a try.

5Q0 411 105 HE RRP is £128 + VAT each. Wonder what Skoda pay their suppliers for them?

Yep, message me the VIN. 🙂

This shows five different gearbox codes used with AWY or BMD (1.2 40kW) engines through mk1 production years. Any of them should be suited to your car, I believe. Searching ebay (or asking a scrappie) for e.g. "GSH gearbox" should provide hits, though I haven't tried that specific search as yet.

As mentioned in PM, car built in sept 2010, with CGPA, 12-valve version of the HTP engine. Cam sensor wiring looks like this: G40 being cam sensor, J623 being the engine ECU. The rectangle with 70 inside it shows (on another page) that this earth joins a few others, and terminates at ECU pin 54. You should be able to measure a solid 5V between pins 1 and 3 of the connector when ignition is on. Looking for any wiring damage, anywhere between 3-pin connector at cam sensor on top of valve cover, and ECU on firewall, would be my approach, though easier said than done for most of the wiring run.

Probably/almost certainly the wheel cylinder has developed a leak at one of its piston seals, and the leaked fluid has come through to there as well as leaking inside drum. Drum removal needed for inspection and rectification. Near zero chance that the brake pipe has mysteriously loosened itself.

If the build sticker is still present and readable near/in the spare wheel well, it will have transmission code on the same line as engine code, I think. Post a photo if you find it but aren't sure what you're looking at.

33 x 4mm Part number WHT 003 865 from Skoda, recommended to retail at £10.25 + VAT in UK.

OK, if the scan screenshot above is showing the correct engine code at the top (BBM), then you have the 6-valve single cam engine, which surprises me slightly in an estate version, I thought in the mk1 at least they got the slightly more powerful variant. I'll start a PM conversation with you so that you can share the VIN with me securely. Then I can confirm engine coide/type and also the build date. Both of these are really necessary to get the most accurate wiring info.

Looks like those two wires may be the loudspeaker on the door. May or may not be important to you.