Breezy_Pete

Perhaps time for them to try another valve replacement.

Lots of things last longer than five years.

Had, rather than has. Up until a few years ago (2023) when they dropped 5 year recommendations in the UK. I don't believe that applied only to engines made from 2023 onwards.

Info such as which engine type you are asking about, for example. 2012 Fabias were made with a fair selection.

In other engines, not this one, obviously.

He messaged me about 8 hours ago, and I replied to tell him his front brake PR code is 1ZG.

Calling dealer with VIN might not even work. They tend to only want to give part numbers out after you have paid for the items. I'll message you so that you can reply with VIN.

From memory our Roomster, with same M10 studs and nuts shows 50Nm + 45° turn in the workshop manual. It would be quite interesting (so I may well do it in the next few days) to do the above method on a new genuine nut and then see what torque the wrench has to be adjusted up to to move the nut any further. Or to do it up to 50Nm, mark nut and wishbone and then see how much of a turn is done by going to 100Nm.

The arcing and sparking that may be happening between these brushes and the sliprings could be causing various electrical problems.

At 13V the alternator is barely working at all. If original, the brushes are probably worn to the point of barely making contact.

When was the coolant pump last changed?

You could do with plugging it in to VCDS to check whether the A/C is being actively shut off. If it is, there will be codes that indicate why. Whereabouts in the UK are you?

The way I'm reading this is that the only reason to think the fan system isn't working correctly is that switching on the A/C doesn't trigger movement. Might there not be other faults in the A/C system that are meaning it doesn't work? I have VCDS and would be happy to plug it in, but we're not neighbours, I live near Swindon. I do pass near you, I guess, from time to time when visiting family members in East Anglia though.

Yes, 185/60/14 is an option for all mk1s that don't have front brakes larger than 256mm.

20Nm + 90° sounds like the workshop manual info for mk1 Fabia with M8 fasteners. Please show your source for this information in relation to mk2 Octavia @kokosal

Wire to starter motor solenoid gradually breaking, just outside the cable entry of the connector at solenoid plug, generally.

That's what should happen with a healthy system. (Apart from the lumpy idle).

The reported shutoff due to low pressure event would be a clue pointing you toward lack of refrigerant, I expect.

The roof doesn't open, only the blinds do. So no drains.

In the spirit of honesty, that buzzing rattle came back despite the magnets still appearing to be well secured. ☹️

Why muck about, just change the whole car! Older ones were better.

Probably to do with embedding of the nut's mating face (and that of the balljoint if textured) being different on the two types of wishbone, together with the fact that when a fastener is tensioned by torque alone, a very high proportion of that torque is used in overcoming friction, rather than actually extending the screw. There's a lot of techy stuff about pre-tensioning threaded fasteners, and the general trend towards using a lower torque followed by an angle tightening stage is mostly about reducing the variability impact of this friction.

The problem with flushing heater matrix or radiator is that there are many small pathways in parallel once you go a little way insde. Pushing water through unless at very high pressure will always tend to choose the least blocked pathways to flow through. So crud can remain in the more blocked ones only to emerge later in different temperature/pressure conditions. Replacement should work though!

6.1.3.(b)(i), apparently: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - 6. Body, structure and attachments - Guidance - GOV.UK

Replied, but for the benefit of others who may be reading:- the seal ring part number is 1K0 201 557A, currently £11.55 + VAT from Skoda. Lots of offerings for less than half that price online from the aftermarket, and lets face it, Skoda didn't supply a particularly durable one when this car was built, so there may not be a strong case for staying genuine.