Breezy_Pete

The ETKA diagrams covering RHD and LHD systems are the same, and both show the LHD orientation, though obviously the part number differ where asymmetries exist. The airflow path is a bit counterintuitive, I think, sketched in in scruffy red arrows here: So it does appear to go forwards through the filter towards the engine bay, but only as a 'wiggle' in the bigger picture! The marked up '2' of the part number would be a 1 for the LHD part. That's a common way that asymmetric parts are differentiated.

No problem.

Looks like it's the last of item 1's here: see workshop manual - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2011 year] (7zap.com) 1Z9 955 711B unless the car was made before 6th Dec 2010, in which case it'll be one of the two above.

Airflow is surely the other way, through firewall, into cabin. Otherwise you'd be filtering the air on its way out, which wouldn't be very useful.

Not sure TBH, and just off out so no time to ponder it just now. I think everything has to go via the fan control module, whatever is demanded, but will revisit later on.

A MAP sensor I should think. Manifold Absolute Pressure. Somewhere downstream of the throttle body. Tend to be very reliable. i wonder if the OP has considered trying my suggestion from some time ago, about investigating whether the oil pressure warning system is functional?

Don't think your engine will have a MAF sensor.

Oh dear, sorry it's been such an ordeal. 'Hatboy Harvey' recently put out a youtube video about disc handbrake stuff on mk! Fabia. I haven't watched it yet, but his stuff is usually pretty solid sense, and well filmed and described.

In reality, they probably needed that genny there anyway, for other stuff. Wasn't meant to be taken too seriously. Cost of storage/renewable generation systems would presumably be out of reach of homeowners, generally. EV early adopters will generally be more inclined to invest though, I guess.

I guess the water may have got in via the connector seals, as opposed to the case perimeter seal? You know you want to open it up for a looksee...? Any corrosion damage to the loom connectors' crimp inserts? (May be able to correlate it with specific pins/wires on the ECU). I've once heard of coolant water getting up along coolant temperature sensor wiring, bizarrely, following internal failure of the coolant sensor. Wicked along within the wire insulation layer all the way to the innards of the ECU connector.

Ignore that if you saw what I just posted, ECU mounts too high up for that to be an issue, I think.

I wonder if someone had previously opened it up for some reason, and failed to re-seal it adequately? Any pics of where the water got in? Good on you for feeding back with the fix.

Just need a dinky little genny like the one here: JCB Electric Mini Digger 19C-1E Review - YouTube

^ Sounds wise.

Did you adapt the engine ECU to the new EGR valve? What year is the car? If it was first used before 1st July 2003, the MIL light isn't tested/relevant. 8. Nuisance - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) You need to inspect MIL fitted to: petrol vehicles with 4 or more wheels, not more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2003

PM me if you need any help finding what you need.

Wiring diagrams are available to anyone for a small fee, at erWin Skoda. 7 euros plus tax for 1 hour of downloading. I try not to post anything that isn't already 'wild' on the web, as they are all copyright documents.

Is the G65 pressure sensor accessible enough to inspect the condition of the connector and wiring near it? As far as I can see, the fan set-up has a permanent 12V feed, an 'engine running' 12V feed, an earth, and a signal/control wire from the engine ECU. If this signal wire is able to cause fan action via the diagnostics, it seems to me that the sensing of refrigerant pressure may be the area where the problem lies, and incorrect information about that pressure is leading to inactivity of the fans. The data signal from G65 is read by the HVAC module, and presumably that communicates by CAN with the engine ECU to say "pressure of refrigerant is too high, please operate the radiator fans". Some monitoring of measuring blocks in HVAC and engine modules may be required to see where the info is/isn't getting to. When activating radiator fans via diagnostics, is that by addressing the engine ECU, or the HVAC module? It may be possible to do it via either, in which case, try the other one.

Can be worth contacting sellers who are breaking cars (right type, right engine) on ebay, with the specific part you're after. They may have it, but not have listed it by part number. They often just arbitrarily advertise a wheel nut, with the understanding that if you ask and they have the relevant other part, they'll then list it for you.

No such device evident on the wiring diagram. They'd always be more than 2 pin though, I think; and as the OP says, mounted in flowing air.

Maybe the other coolant sensor was reading incorrectly when warmer/hot. Test it in some near-boiling water, carefully, if you are curious. It will take a little while for the temperature to affect the NTC thermistor within, so be patient.

I've just updated that thread, with a link to another one where the real problem was uncovered. In your case, unless you've had intermittent misbehaviour, I'm not sure it will be the same cause.

I should have updated this thread a while back, because it wasn't 'problem solved', as it turned out. Had to revisit the problem a little while later and finally solved it by finding a dodgy solder joint in the passenger side door lock.

He doesn't sound very good.

I can't find it just now, but there's a graph somewhere of expected resistances of the coolant temperature sensor, and it has quite broad ranges at each temperature. I suspect yours are reading within that range, at whatever temperature you checked them. Lower resistance means warmer temperature reading, so the one at 1708 will be telling the engine management that the engineis slightly warmer than the other one, therefore unlikely to result in overfuelling. The device in the airbox might be either an incoming air temperature sensor*, or a thermoswitch, which would change between open and closed circuit at whatever threshold temperature it has. Take it out and examine for a part number. *item 15 here, apparently: intake connection; air filter with connecting par... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2001 year] (7zap.com)